rocky2
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Posts posted by rocky2
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My youngest boy turns 16 tomorrow and now he gets the Pathy.
I've been obsessed with the whole pathy thing for a couple of years now, lift kit, exhaust, intake, TBS, Bilstein shocks, Koni struts, SFD, Pan hard drop bracket, stainless brake lines, Timing belt, water pump, Warn hubs, yada yada yada and he's gonna drive it to his moms house tonight and take it away.
I went to a junk yard last week (kinda a family tradition) and got a roof rack tower, tail light assembly and gas fill door, our stuff was either bent, broken or cracked, got all the stuff for a couple of bucks and I want to go back and get more stuff off the wreck for our pathy. Showing the boy how to be resourceful and safe a few bucks.
I went down to the stereo shop (spent way too much) "Soundwarehouse" and had them install a whole new sound system. Kenwood deck, bluetooth, 4 Rockford Fosgate speakers and a Rockford Fosgate powered subwoofer, sounds pretty awesome.
Put new 30x9.5x15 Hancook Dynapro's AT's last week (trying to safe gas)
Put new ball joints on, tie rods, rotors and pads (last year) and re-adjusted the hubs pre-load last week and feel as if I've pretty much got the whole front end rock solid.
I want to thank all you guys here at NPORA for all the info and help and discussions. I miss getting into it with all of you guys about everything!!
So, I guess I'm saying a sort of goodbye and THANKS
Cheers and good luck
Rocky
P.S. I told him that if he puts it at 3000 RPM and sets the cruise control, that Pathy will get him to New York and back, or anywhere else "No Problems"
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Ok bro, here's an update... It's -3 degrees here in Michigan!!! I can't even get my garage up to freezing. As soon as the weather breaks, I'll be back at it. I wish I had an insulated garage. I'll post as soon as I can get out to it. Thanks!
Tee-shirt weather for you then
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Updates snow4me
come on, I'm dying.
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Now put elevation into the equation:Less octane is required at elevation because at higher elevations there is less barametric pressure. Standard pressure is 14.6 psi at sea level, around 11k feet that is closer to 10 psi. As elevation goes up, pressure goes down.
So your motor has less compression at say 10k feet than it does at sea level, everything else equal. At higher elevation since you do not have the compression you have at sea level you do not need as much octane to prevent (pre) detonation.
Of course this is also the same reason you can get a higher compression head for higher elevations than lower elevations. You are really just compensating for what you already lost with the elevation gain. As you increase cylinder head compression you need more octane.
At elevation you need less octane on a stock motor than you do on the SAME stock motor at sea level. Now if you increase the compression on that motor you will need more octane.I live at 7000', most normal cars will not last any longer or preform any better with a higher octane than 87."-
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Geeeezzz ... I'm starting to feel that I'm lucky with my "no camber problems" after theexbrits and snow's issues. I had my AC springs for a couple of months before I bought my 1" spacers from PAmountainbiker. The only camber adjustments I've made was from using four camber bolts (two per side) that I installed when I put the new strut assembly together on the initial install. I have had zero problems from the lift. I even had crazy front flex going over some rocky trails w/o my cv's "grenading". Maybe when this weather clears I'll go out and take some pics of my front suspension.
This pic is with Vajayjay in 4-lo. No funny sounds. No grease splaters. Just shaking up the beer in the cooler in the back!
Maybe you're on to something?
Beer cooler in the back !!!!!
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You could be on to something "shoesandsocks"
I think because it's only 1" that they figure it dosen't have to be angled because you might get the angle increase out with camber adj. down at the spindle. But I guess using AC coils with the 1" spacer is just too much.
I'm sorry that I said the words AC coils, strut spacers bad camber issues in a pathfinder forum.
But I have a gut feeling something else is up.
Look at this guys CV, tie rod and control arm angles
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Yeah, I haven't noticed any difference in MPGs when I switched from 235/70/15 (27.95") to 265/70/15 (29.60").
I have an exhaust manifold leak too, but I don't think it's cracked. Probably the gasket or the studs.
You are still within acceptable gear ratio running (29.60) tires.
Oh, and it's cracked you can bet on it.
Check this site out on ring and pinion gears
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No no no, go back to my pic of the top view looking down at the spindle where the top bolt goes through. The top of the spindle is touching the strut body with the 4 degrees of camber already dialed in. What I'm saying is... I think even if I slot my top strut hole, the spindle can't move any closer to the strut because it's pretty much touching it already. Now, slotting the lower hole towards the wheel, not the engine although not advised would be doable. Does this make any sense?
O.K. now I got it, wow that's a good one. Never thought that could happen. I think a little opening of the bottom hole towards the wheel is alright but probably not going to be enough and you're right, you don't really want to cut that direction. Is the strut the correct unit for your year and model cause this seems weird? Now that I think about it, when I did mine I just moved the spindle in at the top as far as it would go and just figured it was at the limit of the elongated hole and not up against the strut as is yours. I just put he wheel on and lowered the truck and didn't even look at the spindle to stut interference. I have a little positive camber on both as of now but I'm not using spacers either and did a 2" SFD. If the control arm, sub-frame and strut top mounting locations are not bent or damged it's hard to figure out what's going on.
Gonna think about it and get back to ya.
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So, how does timing affect idle problems when depressing the clutch.
What was the fix?
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Sorry,
Can't really get a good idea of exactly what's interfering. I thought it was hanging up on the knuckle.
Is it hanging up on the CV joint housing that goes into the hub?
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Posted 31 October 2012 - 11:39 PM
Your Pathfinder looks great and is in great shape for a 96. I want a spare tire hanger. Just think how cool it would look with a 4" lift.
The 31's are killing your gas mileage. Our 3.3L engines have 165hp and are geared for the tires stock. I have 31's on mine but the gear ratio was affected and caused power and gas mileage decreases for me, thinking of going back to 30's and/or gearing it. Larger tires make you tall geared and make the engine work harder in order to get up to torque curve, like starting out in 2nd and never being able to get to 5th unless on a downhill with the wind at your back sort of feeling.
Lifting your vehicle and running 30's gives you more articulation clearance in your fender well and dosen't affect your mileage and power very much, but sure dosen't look as cool as big tires. Let's say you were to run 37's on your Pathfinder without gearing properly, you probably couldn't get the thing rolling and would have no power and terrible gas mileage.
You get the picture now, if you get huge tires you need to gear accordingly or the motor can't push the tire circumference and negatively affects gas mileage and power band. Lifting the vehicle dosen't affect the mileage very much.
It's all cool just keep improving on it is my game.Exhaust leak, especially around the O2 sensor will cause horrible gas mileage, since the O2 sensor is saying way more oxygen than it should.Also, you have very heavy wheels and tires. a 15x8 steelie... I can only imagine those weigh 10-20+ pounds more than the stock alloys. It takes more power to get those rolling, and that takes a toll on your mileage. Just something to consider.
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Hey snow4me trim that area where the strut is hanging up on the knuckle http://i1321.photobucket.com/albums/u541/rockygeaslin/stut_zps5c7eb6e8.jpg
http://i1321.photobucket.com/albums/u541/rockygeaslin/strutcut_zpsb0149b18.jpg
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Muy bueno Huevon
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Ya, I didn't want to beat the guy up about the search function. So, I just posted the link.
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Hey Guys,
This is a great site for any question I have had for my QX4! You guys have helped me do every kind of maintenance on my rig, and I haven't even had to post a question. You guys have thought of everything!
Now, the Subframe Drop, I have got material for this, and I have seen a set of measurements for the subframe drop brackets, strut blocks, and the rear spring spacers, but for the life of me, can't find it now!!!
Can you guys help me out?
Thanks
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Not yet.
It's too damn cold here in Utah. It was -21 degrees F yesterday morning just down the road from where I live and it's 40 in my garage with a heater. Plus the skiing is too good to lay under the pathy
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Completely off topic, but can jeep cherokees do a "subframe drop" seeing as they are unibody?
You really don't get out that much, now do ya!
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Hey snow4me
Pull that top bolt out, loosen the lower bolt, don't pull the lower bolt just loosen it, now put your floorjack under the lower control arm just under the ball joint mounting spot use a block of wood or rag to cushion if you don't want to scratch things up, cause damn that rig is clean. Lift the assembly up a little in order to simulate pre-load or weight of the vehicle. It dosen't have to be exact just enough to see if that gives you enough space to pivot the top of the knuckle inboard.
Take a pic and get back to us.
"Solutions not problems"
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I find this issue really odd.. Has anyone actually figured out why some people cant fix the positive camber issues while others can? For example, my Pathy is a 2000 with AC and NX4 spacer and my mechanic had no problems doing an alignment with two camber bolts per side. Then there others, like Theexbrit who drives a 1996 and had the positive camber issue, and then now Snow4me's is a 2001 and has the same problem. Whats different between all these vehicles?!
I had all these issues as well and everyone else has too. Most either don't realize it or just live with it.
Using 2 camber bolts per side may get you within manufacturers specified range (means close) but it won't allow for any negative camber option. I would love to see alignment numbers your mechanic had no problems achieving.
Every thread that I've read has mentioned "top out", everybody just lives with it;
Everyone suggests Manual hubs to relieve stress on the CV joints and never corrects the root cause.
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So, you're saying that if the strut was removed from the front, the suspension would sit at the same level as when the strut is in and extended all the way? Only the ball joint would make the suspension stop from going further down?
I'll have to check this out myself. I can't picture it in my head right now.
I'm hoping to get down to Utah in May for GoneMOAB. If I do so I'd love to have a beer with you.
Beers yes.
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I seem to remember there was drawings to make your own blocks, any idea where they went?
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You are on the right track "snow4me"
O.K. now you can eliminate the strut top to perch orientation. Remember that troubleshooting is the process of eliminating the obvious. You will get the camber issue figured out one way or another. Next will be the "top out" issue and then the CV angles, if you are having problems with these phenomenom.
This is a great thread that you started and your pathy looks awesome so stick with it.
With a 1" spacer on the top of the strut assembly and approximately a 2" longer spring installed you have effectively lengthen the strut assembly by 3'. Now XPLORx4, silverpathy and ferrariowner123 may chime in and dispute semantics but this has to be dealt with or brushed off'
These arguements are unbelievable!!
CV angles= install locking hubs.........................................still there and unlocking the hub dosen't change the angle of the CV (this one is my favorite)
Camber bolts= 2 per side and get it within specs..............fix it don't accept it (it's the 21st century, slot that top hole)
top out= it will subside over time.......................................why modify your suspension just to limit its performance
Good Luck
We're all pulling for you!!
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It's not exactly this... They are suppose to be aligned with either the letter L or R on the top plate... did you do that ?
You can rotate the top portion in order to orientate the bolt pattern, hence the bushing/bearing, it allows you to turn it. The bearing allows the assembly to pivot with the knuckle when you turn the wheel. Notches or "V" grooves have to be aligned or "clocked " as the saying goes because the angle of the top hat is critical.
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Gotta Love the AC's
We got you !
You're a R50 modifying NPORA member now, let us know when you decide to go with a SFD.
The likelihood of the knuckle moving when coming down hard is minimal. Unless you plan on jumping the thing. The hole is elongated in the horizontal plane. Tighten up the bolts use lock washers and run it like you rented it!
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My Pathy's evolution so far
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
Hoala Huevon
El Pathy looks muy bueno. Forgive my poor Spanish. Donde esta en Chile?
Mi espousa es Chileana. Mi casa es en Park City Utah.
I'm going down to Chile in May for 3 weeks, gonna start in Santiago visit the famalia, then take a bus to La Union and get borracho con mi amigo then maybe to the north to the Atacama desert. Of course gonna hit Vina and Valpariso.
Good luck with the Pathy and be safe.
Chao Heuvon