Slartibartfast
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Posts posted by Slartibartfast
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Mine were hard and brittle when I took the covers off, and that was mid '10s IIRC. If yours are original, then yeah, I'll bet they're dribbling like an excited puppy.
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I had a look at the manuals. Not sure if yours is VG or VQ, but the diagram is on EL-37 in either manual, and looks about the same. They sure crammed a lot of crap into that circuit, and amusingly, power to the bulbs still isn't properly relayed. It's just the WD21 wiring, but backwards, with a battery saver module riding it piggyback.
The relays are how the battery saver control unit turns the headlights off if you leave them on for too long with the ignition off.
Battery positive goes through two fuses to the two headlight relays. These relays are controlled by the headlamp battery saver control unit. That unit controls both relays together (single trigger wire that Ts off to the two relays). When the relays are engaged, they supply + to the common pin on each headlamp. The high/low filaments in the bulbs are grounded individually through the headlight switch.
I'm ruling out the module, because it can't turn on one relay but not the other (if that was bad, it would take out both sides at once). If the switch was bad, I'd expect it to drop one filament at a time, like the WD21 headlight switches do. But each fuse and relay does one headlight, so one bad fuse or relay would take out high/low on that one headlight.
Just like with the headlight bulbs, I'd check for any obvious heat/corrosion on the components and the fusebox, and maybe give them a wiggle to see if the light flickers. If it all looks good, you could try swapping them side to side to see if the issue follows the relay. If you're lucky enough to catch it while it's acting up, you could tap the relays to see if that brings it back on, or test for 12v+ at the common pin at the bulb to verify that the problem is on the + side.
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After all the hype of how amazing AI was gonna be, it's kinda depressing to see it in action.
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I've found that my mityvac pulls air in around the bleeder threads. I'm never sure where the bubbles are coming from.
I hate bleeding brakes.
Sounds like you're on the right track, though!
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Turn the crank until #1 is at TDC on the compression stroke (balancer lines up and both valves on #1 are closed--if you only check the balancer then you have a 50% chance of getting bottom dead on the exhaust stroke instead), point the rotor towards where the #1 plug wire goes on the cap, and stick it in there. Fire up and time it to 15 degrees +/- 2 (you'll need a timing light), then check it again once it's warmed up. If you can't turn it enough to get the timing where you want it, you'll need to pull it back out, turn the rotor one tooth the other way, and put it back. The service manual explains the marks and the timing specs. Cardiagn.com has a '90 manual, which will be correct for more of your truck than the '94/95 on Nico--but it looks like the '90 doesn't show the timing marks, and the '95 does. EF&EC-25 in the '95.
The good news is that the dizzy does not drive the oil pump on these, so there's no sticking a screwdriver down the hole trying to get a pump drive spun to just the right spot to where the dizzy shaft will engage with it.
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13 hours ago, peejay said:
Pic(s) or it didn't happen!
Did too!
Borg on the left, old busted donut on the right.
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Well, it's too late for Frenchy's truck, but I figured I'd update this in case anyone else is looking to replace their rag joint/coupler. I've got the Borgeson 000941 mounted to the coupler from my parts car, and it looks like it'll work with minimal bodging.
It doesn't come with the bolt hole inserts that are in the stock donut. Those inserts will fit, but the Borgeson is a little thinner than the stock donut, so they're a little too long. I considered modifying the inserts, but then remembered that I don't own a lathe, and instead bought some M12 washers that'll fit over them. The inserts are 3mm too long, and the washers are 2mm thick, so one washer on either side should clamp the rubber nicely without damaging it.
I'll update when I have it installed. I've got the box pulled from the parts car. Hoping to get around to that project in the next week or three.
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Yeah, intermittent issues can be a real PITA to track down.
I had a weak connection in the headlight plug cause a similar fault on mine. I just tweaked the contacts in the plug and it came back around. Hasn't acted up since. Wiggle the plug when the lights are on and see if the bulb flickers. The plug on mine wasn't burned, but that's another thing to check for. Loose or corroded connections can make a lot of heat.
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Hopefully it's just the motor. Remove the plastic cover inside of the rear hatch, unplug the motor, and see if the wiper switch still pops the fuse. If it doesn't, then it's probably the motor, though I would test the motor before replacing it on the off chance unplugging it just broke the circuit to some other faulty component.
If the fuse pops without the motor, or the motor tests good, you'll have to do some digging. EL-69 of the '90 manual (free download from cardiagn.com) shows the whole circuit. EL-90 has component locations, EL-93 and up should help you find the relevant connectors. By disconnecting those, you can narrow down where the problem is. If the fuse doesn't pop anymore with 13B disconnected, then you know the problem is in the hatch. If it still pops with 297M disconnected, you know the problem is between 297M and the dashboard. You could unplug the amp and/or relay. IIRC they're behind the lower trim, left of the rear cargo area. If unplugging one saves the fuse, either that component or something downstream is bad. This approach should narrow stuff down so you're not screwing around chasing wires at the wrong end of the truck.
If you can't be arsed to do all that, or your troubleshooting leads you to the rear hatch harness, check the wiring between the body and the hatch. That's the only place in the circuit where wires have to flex, so that's where I would expect the wiring to fall apart first.
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I'll bet you could just push the clutch pedal down a little (stick against the seat, adjustable tripod, something like that) so the master can't drain, then take it apart and separate the washer from the banjo on the bench.
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That hole is where the cylinder head temp sensor would go if your truck had the 1987-89 throttle body injection. Your '93 is multi-port injected, so the temp sensor is in the neck that goes in the upper rad hose instead.
I went and looked at my '93 to confirm. Same hole, no plug, no sensor. Yours is much cleaner, though!
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At least you know you won't have to do the master again for a while! Hopefully the slave doesn't fight as hard.
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Did you have them test the new alternator? If the problem is the ripple from the alt getting worse under load and confusing the computer or something, then it should run without stalling if you disconnect the alternator. If it behaves the same whether the alt is connected or not, then it's not the alt.
Does the stalling happen from too many electrical loads, or just from these loads in particular? Will headlights + defroster do the same thing as headlights + blower?
My first thought was that you've got a weak connection somewhere that's dropping voltage under load. I looked up the wiring for the headlights, blower motor, wiper motor, and engine computer to see what they had in common, and the answer is not much. The blower and wiper do share the same fuse and ground points, but the headlights and computer/sensors do not. If the starter's still working, that rules out loose battery terminals. If the connection where the negative battery terminal bolts to the fender is compromised, that would bottleneck everything in the body harness, without impacting the starter. It's a long shot, but if you run out of things to check, make sure that connection is clean and tight.
Annoyingly, the FSM doesn't spec an idle speed in gear. 750 +/-50 in neutral, 700 if the TPS is unplugged. 800+ if the aircon is on. I don't remember offhand what the warm idle in gear is on my WD21, but 600-625 sounds about right.
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My dad had an a '07 Fronty. Good rig. Plenty of get up and go. If it's got the slushbox, make sure it's had the SMOD cooler issue dealt with.
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I'd trust a car dealer saying something is "just a glitch" about as far as I'd trust a submarine controlled by a wireless game controller.
That truck's got the ATX14A automatic transfer case, which has a bunch of moving parts and is controlled by a computer. There's some troubleshooting in the TF section of the '03 manual, which you can download for free here. Diagnosis without CONSULT (Nissan's super-special dealer scan tool) starts on TF-62. That light is supposed to come on key on/engine off, then turn off once the engine is going. If it stays on, or flickers, it's trying to tell you that something is wrong, and the manual shows how to track down what it's unhappy about. Depending on the fault, it could be an easy fix, or not.
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Oof. Sorry to hear that!
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@Frenchy, did the Lares 210 fit yours? I just tried to install mine, and it's all wrong. 65mm bolt spacing instead of 60, and the splined hole is too small (15mm vs just over 17). Luckily I tested it on the shaft from the parts car before taking Rat Trap off the road.
Just ordered the Borgeson donut. Should be here for April Fools.
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Looks like either yours doesn't have cruise control, or someone's deleted the clutch safety switch. IIRC the manual trucks have cruise control cancel and starter interlock on the clutch pedal, brake lights on the brake pedal. Auto has cruise cancel and brake lights on the brake, starter interlock through the position switch on the transmission.
I replaced the bungs for my cruise cancel/brake lights a while ago when the one for the cruise fell out. The replacements I got were not a super tight fit, and I don't remember having to fight them much to get them in. If they had, I'll be a C clamp and a small socket would've done the trick.
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Out of stock at Digikey too, but there are still some on eBay. At least it's a through-hole component! Much easier to solder than the surface-mount I assumed it was.
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I think I remember someone sending theirs in to have the mosfet for the IAC replaced. I imagine anyone who can do surface-mount circuit board repairs could do it, if you can track down the specs for the part.
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That was getting sketchy in places! Good on you for cutting into it before it got worse.
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I don't know the NZ car market, but if most are automatic because that's what most people wanted, that suggests it's less desirable to the average buyer. But if there aren't many manuals on the market, and you find a buyer who wants a manual, then you've got something special.
Along the same lines: my dad's got a purple manual Audi Allroad. It's super rare, because only four people were daft enough to order that combination. It would sell for more than the usual silver/automatic Allroad--but only to one of a very small number of hardcore Audi nerds.
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Old hoses tend to be stuck on there pretty good. I put a little silicone spray or WD40 on them and try and twist them, see if I can get a pick under them, stuff like that. Worst case, vacuum hose is cheaper than washer fluid pumps--just cut the line and peel what's left off the pump afterwards. If the hoses aren't super short already, you may have enough slack to just push them back on without replacing anything. IIRC the pumps will piddle fluid once the lines are off, so drain the res first if you haven't already.
More heat, more oil, and more beating should shift it eventually. I would reach for a little butane torch rather than the heat gun, get a little more concentrated heat on the problem, with less risk to surrounding components than the plumbing torch.
I had a look at how the clutch blanking plate is bolted to mine (slushbox), and it looks like the studs just slide in from the driver's footwell. Replacing the studs would not be my first choice, but if the stud gives up before the corrosion does, or you get sick of fighting with it and decide to drill it out, you may not be entirely screwed--assuming the clutch master bolts on the same way that the blanking plate does.
Seat belt interchange
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
I looked up some part numbers on nissanpartsdeal to see what was up with this. The short version is
I don't see why they wouldn't fit. I've heard of people doing dash and interior swaps, and I don't remember anyone complaining that the seat belts didn't bolt up afterwards. If you want to be sure, you could pick up a few grey belt parts from a wrecker or a part-out to confirm that they mount up the same before you shell out for fresh ones.
I swapped '95 seat belts into my '93, but they were the same parts, just cleaner (PO was a smoker). For the most part, they're not that tough to work with, but be careful with the belt guide clips halfway up the B pillars. Gotta ease those out gently. And take a picture of the rear belts before taking them out, so you don't mix up the three in the middle.
The long version:
I looked up the same part (left-hand front belt buckle, color code K) for '87, '90, '93, and '95, and found three part numbers. '87 is 86843-03G60. '90 is 86843-12G60, but the listing suggests that the 12G60 replaces the 03G60, suggesting it's just a minor design change from the original. '95 pulled up 86843-61G00, which for some reason isn't listed as a replacement for 12G60. '93 pulled up 12G60 and 61G00, because transition year, but searching with my VIN pulled up 61G00 only.
NPD has an actual photo (for a change!) of 12G60. I compared it to my grey 61G00, and so far as I can compare a low-res picture on a laptop screen to a scuffed-up original IRL and determine which one is which shade of grey, I'm like 90% sure the 12G60 is in fact the brown one.
I don't think they changed the part number just for the color, though, because the blue and red buckles also have early and late variants listed for '93.
So, yeah, as is often the case with part numbers... something changed around '92/'93.
Give it a shot, let us know if it works!