Towncivilian
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Posts posted by Towncivilian
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Although this is for the passenger's side, this TSB has pretty thorough instructions on fender removal. I think it should help you out: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5mpmm482r0VVGVqSG9yeHJwVHM/edit?usp=sharing
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If you decide to keep the factory tweeters, try this mod - it really made a big difference when I was still using the Bose system. I bet the tweeters are the same for both systems.
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My bad about the wrong sensor recommendation, brain fart on my part!
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Well per the owners manual it says if the ambient outside temp anticipated before the next oil change is zero and above 10W30 or 10W40 is ok
10W-30 or 10W-40 is acceptable above 0F but there is no benefit over 5W-30 in the vast majority of cases.
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One thing that struck me was that I put 10w30 full syn in prior to a road trip in some extremely hot conditions last summer (115F in Moab, early July for example). I'm about due for an oil change and will be going w/ the typical 5w20 full syn, but could having such thick oil really bog the motor down that much? I mean once it's warm, it's warm. normal viscosity should return at proper operating temp, and I was consistently getting 15-19mpg on the freeway the entire road trip - over 1500 miles - with about 500# of gear in back, bikes on top, and two adults inside.
No. It would not make a noticeable, measurable difference. 5W-20 is also not specified for our engines, use 5W-30 year round.
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Have you tried running 20oz bottles of Techron thru 2 back-to-back gas tanks?
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Your 02 sensors. 4 of them, two before the main cats, two after. There are a second set of cats aft of the rear O2s. But having a shop remove them will probably NOT happen. As it's illegal. But it is possible usually with a cash only place *cough*cough*.
There are actually two "pre-cats" close to the exhaust headers, then the typical main cats you would expect afterwards which are monitored by the rear O2 sensors. At least, this is the case on VQ35DE R50s.
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I run some fuel treatment through in the first couple of weeks of having it. I was getting worse, like theexbrit.
Not all fuel treatments are effective. Those containing PEA (polyether amine) are the most effective and is also what is found in top-tier fuels (Chevron, Shell, Mobil, etc). Fuel system cleaners containing adequate amounts of PEA are Chevron Techron (not the "ProGard fuel injector cleaner"), Gumout Regane, Redline SI-1, CRC Guaranteed To Pass (not worth the higher price over the others), probably one or two more I'm missing. I'd go for Gumout Regane from Walmart since it's the cheapest and is equally effective as Techron.
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Roomy engine bay indeed. That brake fluid looks pretty dark, when was the last time you flushed it?
I laughed at the transfer case knob on the shifter, haha.
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Bosch is the original sensor supplier.
Bank 2 is driver's side on R50s! Bank 1 is the side with cylinder 1 (passenger) and bank 2 is the side with cylinder 2 (driver).
Get this sensor from AAP, throw in a PureOne PL14610 oil filter and use coupon code TRT37 and get it all for $45.08 before any applicable tax. Pick-up in store.
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No reason to use Royal Purple oil over anything else. Pennzoil has big advertising about their oils keeping engines cleaner, so try any of their oils for a while. Mobil 1 HM and just about any other high mileage oil will have a lot of detergency additives as said above.
OBDII will complain if you remove the rear oxygen sensors and the cats. You shouldn't touch the cats unless they're clogged, the ECM is designed to operate with them present and I doubt you will gain any fuel economy by their removal.
Use synthetic 75W-90 gear oil in the rear differential and front (if applicable). Use synthetic ATF (Valvoline MaxLife is great and is relatively inexpensive) in the transmission transfer case, and power steering. Ensure tire pressure is correct. Run a 20oz bottle of Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner through a tank of gas, then change the fuel filter. Change engine air filter if not done recently. Don't use anything higher than 89 octane. Drive less aggressively.
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I'd not use them, they can damage your rotors.
This page has tons of info about brake pads: https://parts.olathetoyota.com/what-are-brake-pads-made-of.html
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Yeah, looks alright to continue driving with. I had similar, but not quite as extensive damage to the tailgate, quarter panel, and bumper. Opted to paint & replace the bumper and tailgate myself and had a shop fix the quarter panel (which is yet unpainted, urgh).
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Store brand = rebottled Valvoline, Napa Gold = Wix filter.
Exactly why I recommend those products!
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I have been thinking about dealing strictly with Napa. They seem to have the best service and supply of the parts I need.
NAPA store-brand conventional 5W-30 and NAPA Gold filters will work perfect for 5,000 mile oil change intervals.
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5W-30 is suitable year-round. Where do you typically purchase oil from? That will influence my suggestion for an oil filter.
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Which model # Wix?
Try a filter with a silicone anti-drainback valve, if you haven't yet (usually orange colored), in no particular order: Purolator PureONE, NAPA Gold (Wix rebrand), Fram ToughGuard / Ultra, Bosch Premium (PureONE clone)
Nitrile (usually black) on the cheaper filters sometimes does not seal as well and can become brittle and hard after repeated heating/cooling cycles, resulting in oil draining out of the filter and causing startup rattle/noise.
The Lucas crap is basically SAE 140 gear oil with zero additives - all it does is thicken the oil and dilute its additive package. If you want a thicker oil, use a thicker oil instead of putting gorilla snot in it. It's fine for this oil fill, but I would strongly suggest discontinuing use after this oil change.
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2001s never came with an option though. I'm guessing they just put it there to differentiate between 1999.5-2000 facelifted R50s and the 2001 with the VQ35 (and straight tailpipe vs. curved on VG33E models).
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added a bit of Lucas oil additive to help get rid of the knock that showed up 2 weeks ago
Lucas oil additive will only thicken the fluid and provide no benefits; in effect, it will only mask the noise so you can't hear it.
How many miles do you have on the current oil fill & filter? What oil and filter are you using? What are the current temperatures in Nevada? Does the knock happen when cold and hot (i.e. does it ever go away)? How many miles on your Pathfinder?
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My 2001.5 came with 3.5L and SE badges. Guess they did away with that after the first year of the VQ35.
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Used oil analysis won't detect blow-by.
I'm not sure about your second question.
The gaskets (TB, two UIM gaskets) are supposed to be replaced per the FSM, but they are metal-backed so if they're in good condition I can't see why you couldn't reuse them after cleaning them and the mating surfaces.
If one or more power valve screws are missing, there may be engine damage or catalyst damage or probably both since you are consuming so much oil.
PCV is buried under the LIM and you *have* to take it off. So if you're tackling the PCV, do the threadlocker on the power valve screws with it off the vehicle so it's much easier.
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G-Oil has been on clearance in Walmart for over a year. They also had many offers of free-after-rebate jugs, but some didn't get their rebates back. I'm pretty sure GET is on their way out.
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You don't have to remove too much crap to at least examine the power valve screws, just the upper intake manifold. If you are flexible enough maybe you can even apply threadlocker to all of them without removing the LIM; I knelt on the radiator core support to do so but I'm a small person.
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Tried the Lucas in mine and it did nothing.
Someone else on the board called it worthless "gorilla snot.''
Had me laughing all day about that.
That was me. Lucas' transmission (and engine oil) additives are worthless. But Lucas does have their "own" oil and transmission fluids which are likely blended by Warren Performance Products (i.e. same as most store brands).
Who has removed your front fender?
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
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My driver door hinges sag too and I've looked into replacing the hinges. It does not seem physically possible to remove and replace the hinges without removing the fender to gain access to the hinges' fasteners.