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The biggest factor is reducing brake fade is finding the right brake pad. The next is getting as much material in the brake rotor to dissipate any generated heat. Slotting and cross-drilling rotors reduce mass. Slotted and C-drilled rotors were created for motorsports applications where the brakes received sudden, and extreme applications that would cause pad-gassing temps in a split second, and where there were only mere moments too cool between applications. On the street, they are merely for looks.

Honestly, it will be a waste of money for your truck unless you are doing some seriously heavy hauling or off road racing. Slotted rotors also reduce pad life. I had some Vato-zone $27 rotors cryo treated and put them on my old Integra track car. They performed just as good as the Powerslot rotors I replaced, and lasted a lot longer.

It is mentioned everywhere, but when I search for it I get nothing but Poho 9 results and the occasional person linking to grassroots.com. Well, grassroots.com is some corporate communications website so I am lost. Googling got me nowhere either since all I got were the same grassroots.com links and pictures of Nissans parked on rocks.

My birthday is the 23rd of this month. Just sayin'

That's why I specified I used on on the race course. It was subject to pretty f'ing extreme heat and torture but remained completely streetable and reliable through 1000's of miles or abuse.

http://www.specclutch.com/cars/Nissan/Pathfinder/1992/Single I ran a stage 2 in my 170 whp Integra that saw a lot of road coarse use. And a Stage 2+ in my highway RX7. Absolutely loved the way they felt, engaged, and held.

Those are some wicked battle scars! Was there any tweaking of them?

This guy flies over gorgeous mountain ranges in Austria and Switzerland. It's a flying wing with a wide angel cam on the front wired up to a transmitter. He has a receiver base station and wears video goggles, so it's as though he is sitting in the pilots seat. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G__WvTWeAGw

WTF? I want a mini zebra for a pet!

Banned for realizing the true potential of a turn of the century post whore.

Banned for making excuses for having Altezzas.

BANNED for using a pic of your car from before you got it.

For your infidelity, I order you to give me your cruise control button.

Since Fram went super corporate and forgot about quality control, I will never use them again. Only time I have ever cut open on oil filter to find a section out of the Korean newspaper.

Altezzas. Nuff said.

To get this rolling I will say yes, that does count. Now pick a new challenge.

Just curious to see what you guys are running. Are you WD21 people using the recommended 5w-30 for colder climates? Or 10w-30 all the time?

I laughed till I was in tears. I called my gf just to tell her I loved her. Then I laughed again. Then I saw a dude sweeping a lot at midnight and saluted him.

It is amusing to think that the 1.8 liter in my old Integra made about 35 more horsepower than my Pathfinder, but about 30 less ft-lbs. Still ran like a bat out of hell when wrapped out to 9k. Anyways, if I were going to drop another engine in the Pathy, it would be an RB26DETT. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v55UtXvSUZ0

A blown head gasket will cause white smoke out of the tail pipe. Condensation dripping out of the tail pipe is normal for all engines because one of the products of burning hydrocarbons is H2O.

There is nothing in the area to connect it to, that I can see, but I'm curious as to what it is. Front passenger side of the engine compartment, just behind the battery.

Air flows in? I thought all EVAP systems worked on positive fuel tank pressure. There is a solenoid that allows the fuel vapor to flow in to the charcoal canister.

A little bit of oil, some condensation and clutch dust create that black goo. Go ahead and replace the rear main seal.

No.

Since you guys are being pansies, let's start really easy. Your car at a stop sign with at least 2 other cars in the picture.