kiwipete

Here is the dimensions for it.

x2 on that size

First you need to ask yourself, how secure did you make the electrical connections? Did you splice and twist the power wires together, crimp them or solder them? Secondly I would check the earth bonding lead, but if both units are playing up, you surely have a faulty power supply to them, one in common I presume.

Simple eh, just ensure the splines are the same on the LSD as your axles and you are all set to go? BTW, how does an LSD preform on the front, especially in muddy conditions?

All hand brake brackets need extending to suit the body lift achieved. You should be able to release the cable from the centre adjuster enough for it to fit back.

Sounds to me that it is a lack of adjustment. I found with my 2" BL I had to make droppers for the handbrake cables to get them back to factory positions. One side always bound up on cornering with out this mod. Hence it wore that side out real fast.

Glad to be of assistance. Hope I got the instructions made clear enough, im recovering from a massive bout of the flue. I also removed my hood lining and placed a 5mm thick sheet of aluminum from the front light to the center light so i could mount my mini ITX PC to the hood lining. With all the linings and trims removed I future proofed the truck as much as I could by running all manner cables from the dash to the PC. These I made protrude from the forward facing edge of the very center trim that the light attaches too. I had to cut this edge back by about 6mm to allow enough room for all these cables. One day id like to remove the rear section of the hood lining to see if I can hide my power amp in the boot area somewhere. Mine has the hump in the rear hood lining and it looks like there is enough room for it to fit maybe.

If you do re glue the vinyl and find you have air pockets left after-wards, simply prick the pocket with a pin as is used for darning and massage the air out. You will not see this hole after the next step. A small rubber roller as used by artists when doing etching etc is most useful for smoothing this all over. I used Ados F2 contact adhesive spray on mine, but in my haste I don't think I removed enough of the foam backing from the original, and over the summer with the truck parked outside, it has loosened again. I will do it properly this time and clean both surfaces and use the Ados F2 glue instead of the spray. Here is how I removed mine; Remove the center light; pop the lense off and there are two screws under here. The middle section can now be popped off at this stage to expose the ends of the outer two sections. Remove the trim from around the door A pillar at the windscreen and above the door. This clips off, You will also need to remove the hand grab if one is fitted. Take care when removing this trim that yopu do not over exert it. I used a thin engineers steel ruler to prise it all off. There are two screws holding the 2 outer sections on under this trim above where the the seat belt attaches. I broke mine off before I figured it was screwed on here. The outer trims are held on via 4 plugs that pop into the steel roof rib section. Again I used the ruler for this too. Be aware that your hood lining may sag at this stage and you may have to use a bit of duct tape to temporarily secure it.

Yes I agree here about not using a Tirfor for lifting, but they are a safe option. They will not let go as the jaws lock on the special rope used with them. There is a shear pin that will break when they are overloaded. There is more risk with a Hi Lift jack letting go and you have to watch the handle dosent wack you. A Tirfor handle will not release under load either.

There is another method of winching too. You can use a Hi Lift Jack as a hand winch with a simple winching kit. Many people I know use this if they have no winch on the truck. It is a very controlled winch system and can be used for pulling up an incline or lowering down an incline just as easily. Here is a simple demonstration I found on Youtube about it. Yes it is very slow, but it is also very controlled. We demonstrate its use at every training day as well as the use of a Tirfur and winch.

Ok, here is what I have done for my air horns. Yes I have two of them, under the bonnet. Here is the tank set up. it is a 6l tank from a baby compressor. I had to widen the inner bracket for the tyre carrier to fit it in there. Under the tank is a water drain and on the top is a snap-on connector. The hose runs under the body, tied to the fuel lines along the chassis rail and into the engine bay area. In the front is another snap-on connector near the grille. There is a 12v air solenoid valve hooked to the horn switch. This is with a 2 way switch so I can switch between the electric or air horns. This switch is located on the under side of the steering wheel surround. I have the front section all plumed up ready for a Sanden 508 air con compressor to power the system. This will be located between the factory air con and alternator. Mine is a TD27 diesel motor. I just have to make the brackets for the modified air con compressors so in the mean time I charge the system with my workshop air supply. The two horns are just like yours and are strapped (cable tied) beside my air filter. I have a roof rack to mount at some stage and will look at putting the horns up there one day. No pictures of the front setup yet sorry. These pumps just need the oil drained from the sump and high temp grease inserted via a grease nipple on the bung. Here is a diagram that I have followed in my set-up. I am not using the oiler or oil separator in my setup.

Nice mod there. I have the same dash in my Terrano, but have placed a PRS FM base radio in there instead.

I might just grab those spare links off you please, it has been suggested that I try to get the certifier to ammend the cert for no front swaybars. At least the rears are easy enough to modify.

As long as the Bottom A arm section of the bolt and the swaybar part too, does not come into contact with anything as the suspension moves when it is all disconnected?

The only thing that worries me with your set up Dave is the bottom section hanging down. i'td get knocked about a bit wouldnt it, or do you discon both sides and hang the bar up somehow? I thought only one side of the rear needed disconnecting? What plans have you for the front?

Somehow I don't think i'd get away with that either, humph. I get better flex without the bars all the same. That would have to be one hell of a pin with the loads placed on it, wouldnt it? Better to sleeve it, and place a fake pin in it so it just looks like its pinned, he he he, now there's a thought.......

Well I have had to re-install my sway bars because I failed a WOF with them removed. Now, I want to be able to continue with the excellent articulation I get without them so I am thinking of making some disconnecter's for them, saving me the hassle of fitting them back in place every 6 months for the WOF. The rear ones are easily enough modified by cutting the shaft, sleeving it and welding the sleeve to one half, assembling the unit, drilling and pinning it together. The front ones are going to be harder to work out. As you can see by the pictures below there is not much length of the connecting bolt to work with. What suggestions do you guys have for me here please? edit, fixed photos up.

I too have voted for $20.00 donation for this worthy cause. I do not know Jim nor you chaps pushing this generous offer forward. Seeing as I'm in New Zealand I hope you will consider a pay pal account to pay the moneys into please.

Way to go there MrJim. Keep your powder dry and im sure the folks on here will be more than happy to help you where they can.

I'd like to see pictures of this.

Both please.

Have you any pictures of the front setup at all, from underneath?

I really do not see why people are obsessed with removing weight from pathies. They are a truck not a sports car. Hell I have put 100's of pounds of extra weight in and on mine with all the recovery gear, tools, winch, roof rack, skid plates etc etc and hardly notice a difference. Mind you mine is a TD27 so I spose the diesels have a bit more pull lower down. Sure braking takes a little longer with the weight, but it is a truck.

I think you will find the "spoiler" is for forcing air over the back window to keep it clear of dust etc when on dirt roads. Not for aerodynamics. Come on, think about it?

No, the alternator runs all the time, It does not switch on and off like an air con pump does.