kiwipete

Here is a "line" diagram of wiring headlight relays. This shows the two wiring looms tied together and feeding separate relays for both the high and low beams. The relays then feed the high and low beam wiring on the headlights respectively.

I have to say that articulation has been greatly improved since I removed both my sway bars. Unfortunately I have no "before" shots on hand. These were taken after I had just finished a 2" body lift. I already had a 2" suspension lift. I can say with out a double that my articulation has increased immensely since I removed my sway bars and the ride is so much smother on shingle roads. It soaks up the undulations on shingle where as with them on it is all over the place. Off road I have more rubber in contact with the ground, loosing traction less often than those with sway bars connected.

Surely if you follow those pics and write up, you should be able to make sence of it. I have another "basic" wiring diag of doing the relays, but this might confuse you further...............

Surely the rear wiring to the stop lamps etc would be at least very similar. They have naff all to do with climate control, and besides those diags should be at least a rough guide IMHO.

Here is the wiring diagrams for the 95 models. I would assume they should be the same. I have included both the Truck and Wagon diags.

Not to mention down right dangerous. A real wrist breaker in the wrong conditions.

Ok, chaps, here we go. This is just a quick write-up as I found a spare 6 hrs today to do some re-wiring on the truck. Installing relays to switch HIGH and LOW beams. I used two relays for my installation, one for the Low beam and one for the High beam lights. First I tested the wiring harness going to the headlamps at the lamp sockets for their correct polarity. There are three wires to each socket being, High Beam, Low Beam and Ground. I labelled the position of both the High and Low Beam wires on the socket and harness. Next I cut these wires about 12mm out from the plug. To the ends of the left harness wiring, I soldered on some new wires to reach the right harness, thus tying both harnesses together. Care has to be used here to ensure the correct pairs of wires are tied together. My reasoning for this was to alleviate any issues that may come about by the stalk switch becoming faulty in the future as I suspect it has contacts for both the right and left lights. Each pair of wires then had an extra wire soldered to them and these were crimped to the relay. The Low and High Beam wires goe to Pin 86 on each of the relays. To the plugs I soldered new wires to the lugs and ran these to the relays in this order. The High and Low Beam wires go to Pin 87 respectively. The Ground wire goes to Pin 85 and then to chassis Ground. To Pin 30, I used a waterproof Blade fuse, that connects to the battery positive terminal. I used 20A fuses in these as its what I had on hand. All soldered joins were covered in heat shrink. The wiring I used in the end was some multi strand 2.5mm rubber coated flex. All pairs of wires were taped together with good quality 3M 33 insulation tape for added protection. The relays were mounted to some sheet tin and this was in turn bolted under the lip of the guard. You can choose where you wish to mount yours.I chose this area as I intend to install a 2nd battery here and it will power these relays and other accessories. Right side plug Left side plug Re-Wired Plug All done Wiring diagram Relay Pins Fuse Relay I hope this helps some of you.

Well, um, er, ...ok. But it will be a couple of weeks away as I'm flat out with work, and here in NZ its dark when I go to work and dark when I come home, so weekends are all I have to do any mods. Gasps for a breath, and of those weekends, I only get a limited time to myself................. (insert sympathy vote here, lol) But I will do something, with pictures too, because; :worthless:

No sorry, it was all off the top of my head. I am going to do this to mine ASAP and will be using some 4 core rubber flex (240V rated as we have this at work) similar to trailer wiring. I will cut and splice into the wiring loom where it plugs into the back of the headlights and run this new wire to and from the new relays.

Or for a more permanent solution. Tie both pairs of Low beam wires and both pairs of High beam wires together, giving you two pairs of two wires. I say to tie both so as to relieve the switch as it has two sets of contacts, one for each lamp. The problem is generally the lack of a relay as this switch is switching full current. It doesn't go through a relay. Take these two wires and run them through a relay so they energise the relay. Each relay then powers the headlights, giving a better light output too. Why, because the headlights are now running off heavier gauge wire directly from the battery and not through the crappy Nissan small gauge wiring loom. Your switch and headlights will love you for it.

Yikes! Nope! I removed it totally, and the front one too. Another option is to use some factory disconectors from a Safari (I don't know what these are called in the US sorry). They release with a cable like, operated similar to the bonnet release.

I selected 31 and 33 on the voting. I am running 31's at the present and will soon be changing to 33's. I have a 2" suspension and body lift. This is the max we can go here in NZ. Even at full flex I can get some rubbing with these 31" tyres, so when I get the new 33's, there will surely be some major rubbing going on there. I noticed this when we got her certed with some loaned 33" tyres, it rubbed at 1/2 lock on the flat and the rears rubbed when cornering too. I would love to see some closer pics of the fender alterations some of you other guys have had to do for 33 or larger tyres too please. I am interested in how you finish the cut to the fender. I will have to add rubber fender flares when I do mine as it's all part of our certification and WOF crap we have to adhere to here in NZ.

I too have no sway bars front and rear on my 95 model, but I have kept them safe and secure as sometimes the WOF people ask that they be re-fitted. Here are some shots of mine after we did the body lift, it has a 2" suspension and body lift with no sway bars. http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z218/ki...pg?t=1211061676 http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z218/ki...pg?t=1211061775 http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z218/ki...pg?t=1211061829 http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z218/ki...pg?t=1211061876 http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z218/ki...pg?t=1211061915 You will have to re-adjust the hand brake cable hangers to allow for all this extra flex on the rear. I learnt about this when I over stretched the cables and one side rubbed against the rear muffler. You will see what I mean when you look under your truck at full flex.

Yep, as I said in post #9

Its stock. All TD27's have these. Regardless of the dash surrounding colour schemes, the knobs are black.

It is the manual idle speed adjuster. Should be a ratchet sort of action on it when you pull it out, you twist it in one direction to release it.

Yes thats my suggestion too, check for any shorts in the wiring or dirty contacts on the switches etc. Also check the wiring harness plug itself where it plugs into the amp assembly, especialy if the power and earth leads are secure. Failing all this it might be a simple case of opooing into an auto sparky for some advise?

See my post on my body lift for further ideas and details of what I encounted.

When I replaced my front speakers, I got some 6 inch cheapos from a local store. I think the origonals were 5.5 inches, but with a heat gun I was able to easily re-mould the plastic surround that secures the speaker to the door. Just make sure everything clears the window when it is wound down. If these speakers ever crap out I will replace them with Marine speakers as I frequently have water issues with my door. Something to do with deep water crossings maybee. One last bit of advice, re-tape (duct tape) any plastic from the door lining back into place. This helps prevent dust and cold air entering.

Hope this helps. Block the rear wheels and jack up the front of the vehicle and put it on stands, remove the wheel on the side in question. I suggest removing the wheel from the other side too tho you don't have too. Put the Transmission in neutral and the T-case in 4high....You'll need to slip from 2 to 4 high at different times to lock the driveshaft while accessing and loosening or tightening the CV/Diff bolts. Remove the five bolts attaching the axle to the diff. An air wrench or air ratchet with a long extension makes things nice and easy. You're not going for high torque so I just used a regular 8" extension to reach in there. Be ready to use a strap wrench to turn the front driveshaft so the diff flange rotates to allow access to all the bolts. Remove the free wheeling hub and remove the snap ring holding the axle inside the wheel hub. Disconnect the outer tie rod end from the front of the knuckle. Remove the disk brake caliper and wire it up out of the way. Carefully use a jack to lift and support the lower control arm, keeping an eye on the nearside jackstand to be safe. Unbolt the four bolts securing the upper A-Arm to the ball joint and wire it up out of the way too. Use your hand to turn the steering knuckle to the right as far as it'll go (for removing passengers axle, turn left to remove the drivers side axle) and rotate the wheel hub out and down towards the front. Work the axle out along the chassis towards the rear. At this point you will likely end up determining the shock has to be removed as well, do so if required. There is only about 25mm of clearance but there is room to wriggle it out. Use a jack to raise or lower the lower control arm and wheel hub if needed. Make sure that the spacer came out with the old axle, it’s a copper alloy washer that goes over the outer end of the shaft and rides against the back of the wheel hub. The rest is straight forward as far as replacing the boots go. To get the boots off, you have to pop the end cap of the inner CV, the end cap that goes against the diff flange. Do not prise it of, just bump the joint against he bench with the cap facing up, so the joint is pushing it off from the inside. You'll see what i mean when you get in there. Once you have access to the back of the joint, you can remove the circlip holding the ball section of the joint to the axel shaft, and with a rubber mallet, persuade the ball section to slide off the splines. Mine was very tight, needed alot of persuasion. You can slide the outer boot off now. The outer joint does not come apart readily, pack it as best you can. A tip for using those steel clips the boots come with: Hold the joint in the vice, place the clip so it is wrapped round the joint only once and threadit through the clasp bit. Attach vice grips to the lose end of the clip tightly and pull on it for all you are worth, when its as tight as you can get it, keep the pressure on and bend it back over the clasp so it kind of hooks its self there, keeping the pressure on still, pick up a hammer and knock the lock tabs down and flatten the clasp arangement. It ain't going no where now!!! Cut the loose and off to tidy it up. The installation is a reverse of the above.

It sems that there is a common fault with the indicator lights that are recessed into the front bumper on the Pathfinder's/Terrano's. Mine constantly played up when I removed the bumper for the body lift and winch mounting projects, or any time the unit has been severley bumped due to rough terrain. The lamps corrode inside their sockets, which causs them to make no or internittant contact. This is why the other lamps flash rapidly, to let you know there is a blown lamp or similar. The indicator units are not the most waterproof, something Nissan has missed along the lines, just like the headlamps. Take some fine sandpaper and gently clean both the lamp; case and lead tip, and the inside of the socket. Clean out any dusty residue. With some needle nosed pliers, gently bend the socket's tabs in a fraction, where the lamps click into it, to create a tighter fit. Apply a liberal amount of silicone contact cleaner to the sockets and lamps and re-insert the lamps. Test before you re-assemble the units. A smear of silicone grease on the outer boot where the wires enter the case is necessary too. This prevents water ingress into the rear of the lamp socket. I hope this helps you as this had happend to me frequently in the past. I am currently looking at replacing mine with some LED units if I can find any of the right dimensions. I may have to make some yet. But this is another thread in the making me thinks.

Am waiting for more pics, taken by the NZ 4x4 mag southern editor chappy.

Um, I wasnt stuck, but there was no way I could drive it either. It is steeper than it looks actualy, 40+deg. That video was from part of an advanced training day I attended.

Yes it is indeed, and it is worth its weight in gold IMHO. We used it on the hard clay/stoney ground, soft (damp) soil at the mud section, beach shingle and sand. It held up to everything we threw at it.

I have uploaded some video footage of the winch in action, its not much, but its a start.