ahardb0dy
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Posts posted by ahardb0dy
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I was just going by the size the OP was talking about.
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If you do it the first way I said by taking the 2 wires from the fuses that are always "hot" and moving them to 2 fuses that are on with the key, than No you would not need a relay.
After looking at the schematic and noticing that there is one fusible link that powers the 2 headlight fuses I thought it may be easier to use a relay and make all the connections under the hood, this way you do not need to mess with the fuses at all, basically you would be making the power coming from the fusible link a switched power source, instead of the constant hot that it is stock.
Either way ( or perhaps other ways) it can be done. I guess it would come down to preference. The two ways I listed, I would do it with the relay as it actually seems easier ( to me anyway)
If you were to move the 2 wires coming out from the headlight fuses ( the stock location) than you would need to find 2 other fuses to use, what fuses you could "piggyback" off of would be a concern, you don't want to put the headlights on a fuse that already controls something else, and you wouldn't want to upgrade an existing fuse and possibly overload the stock wires.
The only thing with the relay that may be a problem ( I don't think it would hurt the relay), is whenever the key is on, the relay would be energized.
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There are 2 wires for the headlights going to the switch, after thinking about what I wrote I think the best way would be the second way I mentioned.
Would only have to run 1 wire into the cab to a switched source from the relay, (may be able to find a switched source under the hood). fusible link wire to the relay, other end coming out of the relay, and a ground, done. Headlights wires still protected at the battery by the original fusible link, and protected using the same fuses in the fuse box.
Headlights on, forget to shut them off, key off headlights off
The above is based on the assumption that nothing else shares that same fusible link.
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I didn't mean to make it sound like a coil, I usually will bunch the coax together in a loop about 12-14" long and tie wrap the ends, If I have that much extra.
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so basically,, cut the red/white wire after the fusible link, connect it to the output of a relay (terminal 87), connect the relay to power with a fuse at the battery ( terminal 30), connect a ground to the relay (terminal 85), than connect a switched power source to terminal 86.
When the key is on, the relay has power, which feeds the 2 fuses for the headlights and all works as normal, key off, relay is off, no headlights.
The 2 headlight fuses are 15 amps each so need to make sure the relay and wiring can handle the combined 30 amps.
you could probably use the wire from the fusible link ( where you cut it), to power the relay, since it was already powering the 2 fuses for the headlights, it will be rated enough to run the relay.
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Per the 90 FSM ( Don't have one for 91, probably the same), the 2 fuses that control the headlights are the 4th and 5th fuses, bottom row, counting starting from the let side of the fuse panel.
If you remove the fuse panel to get to the rear of it, those two wires should be a red & a red/white stripe, the FSM shows both of those wires coming from the 2 separate fuses I mentioned, going to the headlight switch.
I would check those two fuses with a test light first to make sure they have power with the key off, if they both do, than you would need to remove those 2 wires, and run them to a new location that only has power when the key is on.
remember at the fuse, one side of each fuse goes to the headlight switch but the other side (the input) comes from the fusible link.
Another way to do this, which may be easier is to cut the wire coming out of the fusible link (after the fusible link) that feeds the two fuses for the headlights, ( wire marked in red line in diagram below, wire is not red I just used red to mark the wires), than run that wire through a relay that is triggered by a wire connected to a source that is only on with the key, diagram from the 90 FSM:
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don't forget to run the lock nut back down so it's touching the big nut.
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Headlights would be easy. Just find an ignition switched source and wire it to the trigger of the low beam relay.
This would work if you want the headlights on when ever the key is on, if you want it the other way you could do it as I said.
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You want the headlights to only come on when the key is on? Or you want the headlights to come on with the ignition so they would be on all the time?
If you want the headlights to only come on when the key is "ON" than you can take the 2 wires that come from the fuse box, from the un-switched fuses ( power with out the key being on) and move them to 2 switched fuses (power with the key on).
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BFG tires have that tri guard sidewall which may be why the tire is heavier, the KA2 says the sidewall is 20% stiffer, I guess than the previous KO tires.
a 31/10.50/15 is about the same size as the 265/70/15 other than the 31 is slightly taller, the 31 weighs 42.6 pounds.
I do not see a Nitto tire in either a 31" or the 265/70 size to compare.
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May have to pull the cluster and check where the odometer makes contact with the gear on the speedometer, I've read where the LCD for the digital odometers don't like cold weather also but if the analog odometer is not working it is probably a physical thing.
Have you checked to see if the light dimmer is not turned down all the way? I don't think it controls the brightness on the digital odometer but worth it to check it.
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just pick up the vacuum hose from the auto parts, there are a couple different sizes so you may need to either buy a few different sizes or pull a couple different hoses off to check the sizes, I would replace every hose you can, just make sure to do one at a time
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Welcome
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probably a bulb for the part where the numbers are. Does the normal analog odometer work?
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This is the page from Nissan FAST for a 4x4 WD21 pathfinder, which hanger (s) do you need?
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my hardbody, used Mother's Showtime to clean the new chrome bumper and to clean the front fenders, new/used chrome power mirrors and grille.
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actually Wilson fiberglass whips use the set screw to hold the short metal adjustment part on the end,
Firestick (the easily adjustable models) use a sort of nut and the adjustable part screws up or down.
two antenna's on the rear would make for some good range facing forward I'm sure !
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Welcome, good luck !
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try pressing the odometer reset button, sometimes they get stuck.
The odometer runs off a gear from the speedometer so if the speedometer is working than there is nothing wrong with the speed sensor, no cable for the speedometer in the 94.
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better now than after it's all together and than it would be more work
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I would say if you don't have it back together yet than might as well make a gasket
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bad gas could be water in the gas, especially in colder climates it's always a good idea to run the gas line anti freeze in the gas once in a while.
If you haven't done it already I would suggest replacing ALL the vacuum lines, these trucks are getting old and the rubber doesn't last forever, a small crack on the end of the hose or in a place you can't see easily will make the engine run ******, just buy some different diameter vacuum line and replace one at a time.
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This is the Wilson I prefer, roof mount, permanent mount ( have to drill a hole):
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I never said you wouldn't get a good SWR reading running co phased antenna's on a small vehicle, I just was saying it effects the reception/transmitting pattern.
108" whips on a Maverick? front and rear I hope?
On my old hardbody I drilled the hole right in the center of the roof (king cab), was easy to get to the cable inside after removing the sunroof latch and rubber trim.
I guess on some vehicles with tire carriers there can be a problem depending on how the carrier mounts are isolated from the body, and some vehicles use bushings ( not metal).
I used to run firestick fiberglass whips, I prefer the one's that you remove the rubber cap and can adjust them with an allen wrench.
New tire advice
in General Forums
Posted
I think where ever you got the weight for the Nitto Trail Grappler M/T is wrong, I just found it online saying it weighs 72.8 pounds