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ahardb0dy

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Posts posted by ahardb0dy

  1. I never had any issues with the ball joints even when I ran 35's on my former 87 hardbody and I beat the crap out out of that truck, the center link was another story and was replaced way more than it should have been.

     

    Some people burn the stock bushings out of the arm, still have to press the new ones in though.

  2. so the roof of a WD21 is longer than the R50?

     

    I know you want to keep the basket but I think if I was doing this I would lose the basket and shorten the front tubes so the rear one will fit on the roof, but it's your truck.

  3. You can turn the middle mount so it sits inward, you would need to drill anew hole and use a rivnut to mount the middle mount. I reversed the middle mounts when I installed the rack on my former 94 pathfinder. I also used riv nuts to mount it to the roof.

  4. The original suspension lift upper control arms sold were reinforced stock arms with ball joint spacers welded in ( they boxed the bottoms), I had them on my 87 Hardbody way back. The spacer allows you to crank in more lift than with the stock arm as it moves the upper control arm up the thickness of the spacer.

     

    That was fine to get lift but made aligning the truck harder.

     

    Later Jim Connor Racing came out with the tubular arms which were designed to give lift while still being able to align the front end.

     

    I think a 1" spacer is a bit much, the original Jim Connor Racing arms had at most a 1/2" spacer welded in. As I mentioned they fully boxed the open bottom of the arms to give them more strength, I never had a problem with my control arms, ball joints, CV axles or the ability to get the truck aligned.

     

    I tried to keep about a half inch of space between the upper control arms and the bumpstops, and my lower control arms were almost sitting level, angled down slightly.

     

    If you ever see a lifted Nissan truck and the lower arms are angled like this - / \ than it is cranked up too high.

     

    I would recommend aftermarket torsion bars as they tend to hold the cranked in lift longer than the stock bars.

     

    I had two stage bars ( no longer made)

  5. I removed the idler arm from the frame when I replaced the starter in my 94 the last time ( don't ask ! LOL), I would highly recommend a OEM Nissan starter ( rebuilt but good) or a aftermarket NEW ONLY starter ! I used one from Rockauto made by Pure Energy, only NEW one they had.

     

    I was able to get the starter past the trans lines by rotating it, one time I pulled it out from the top.

     

    Never had a problem removing the O2 sensor.

  6. Yes it is, I have one here, but was trying to find one closer to the guy in Canada, he got the bars back in for now and the truck is under it's own weight.

     

    The bar was not in all the way, only about a 1/4" and it pulled out, s tripping the first 1/4" of spline, so the tire ate the fender (33")

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