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Posts posted by ahardb0dy

  1. The clutch safety switch just provides a ground to the starter relay under the hood. Easiest way to bypass the switch would be to disconnect the wire coming from the switch at the relay and run a new wire from a ground to the spot on the relay where you disconnected the wire.


    If your having problems with the truck is starting, the starter relay is a common item to fail.

  2. more under the dash than behind, you have to remove the glove box and the plate behind it, disconnect the 2 AC lines under the hood at the firewall, than remove the screws that hold the evaporator box to the firewall, and the box should pull out.


    Once out, remove the clips holding the 2 halves together, and remove the top half of the box to get to the expansion valve. There is also a plug or 2 ( been a while since I messed with one) to disconnect before removing the box. The foam they use between the box and the rest of the AC under the dash usually will fall apart, so you will need something to replace it, in my former sentra, I ended up wrapping some AC tape around the ends of the box to keep the air inside from leaking out.

    • Like 1
  3. headlight switch is a common item that acts up over time, at least you were able to fix it.


    I cleaned the contacts on the headlight switch on my former sentra and it was good for a few days than acted up again. was going to order a switch from rockauto but found the OEM switch was a few dollars more and figured the OEM switch lasted 19 years so it was worth it to pay a few dollars more to get another OEM part.

    • Like 1
  4. I'm north of Orlando in the mount Dora area. Don't go off road but I do like these trucks. Should have never sold my 88 but now have a 94 I'm enjoying fixing.


    Close to me, I'm about 5 minutes from Mount Dora, if you need help with anything let me know, used to own a 94 Pathfinder as well as my current 93 Hardbody, formerly 87 Hardbody (and others !) LOL

    • Like 1
  5. The switch has a separate contact for each low and each high beam.


    Check the bulb as was suggested (swap them) if still no low on the one side, check for power at the headlight socket, if no power, you may want to pull the switch and pry the clear (white) plastic off to expose the contacts (shown below) and try cleaning the bottom of each contact and the small metal "pad" the contact sits against. Be careful not to bend the contacts or it will never work right again. Some people just run some fine sand paper to clean the contacts.


    Switch looks like this ( the contacts):



    • Like 2
  6. I thought the overflow, drained out the bottom ?


    No the older VG30's (87ish) had the air bleeder screw in the upper radiator hose, the VG30E's have it near the intake manifold, right side towards the rear.


    Your last pic looks like a pic from a used car lot, where they spray that crap that makes everything shiny to make it look new !


    Metal tank radiator too ! Nice, Most running hot problems are due to a bad fan clutch I notice.

    • Like 1
  7. You can download the manual for the 93,94 or 95 as they are all very close to your 92.




    I thought there was only one hose going to the over flow bottle ?


    The coolant flows to the overflow when it has too and the engine draws it back when it needs it, I do not think it is an everyday every time the engine is running thing, usually if the engine gets to hot (overheats it will pull fluid in.

    • Like 1
  8. I just filled the system with the flush and water, let it warm up to op. temp, than drained the radiator, repeated about 3 more times and refilled with anti freeze.


    Make sure to remove the air bleed screw located on the side of the intake manifold when doing your final fill, after you get a steady stream of coolant coming out, put the screw back in,


    and also make sure to have the heat on so the coolant will circulate through the heater core.

    • Like 1

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