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ahardb0dy

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Everything posted by ahardb0dy

  1. I was mistaken, damn that car looks just like my sentra with a body kit !!
  2. there is a way to do this safely, the proper way is to use a relay, if you don't mind running wires from the front of the truck to the rear than you have options. Using a relay you can tap into the wire for your reverse light so the backup lights only are on when you are in reverse, or you can wire the back up lights to a switch so they are only on when you turn them on, or you can have both. If the lights you are thinking about using aren't some big monster sized lights with 100 watt bulbs you could tap off the trailer harness ( if you have one for your power source), if you were to do it this way and just wanted the lights to come on when you had the truck in reverse you could do it with out having to run ANY wires towards the front. here are a few examples: scenario 1: lights on when in reverse only: relay mounted inside near rear of truck relay (has numbers next to the pins on the bottom of the relay) these are what the numbers correspond to: 30 = 12 volt in ( this is your power source) 87 = 12 volt out (this one goes to your lights) 86 = control power in (this turns the relay on, you could splice this wire into the factory reverse lights, the amperage required to turn the relay on is in Milli amps) 85 = this goes to ground so, run a wire with a fuse from the constant hot in the trailer harness to #30 of the relay run a wire from 87 on the relay to the furthest back up light ( if your using 2 that is), connect the closer backup light to the wire going to the other light using a Scotchlok connector), you may have to ground the lights if they are not touching metal or if they have a separate ground wire run a wire from 85 on the relay to a ground, I usually loop the wire back up to the screw I use to mount the relay run a wire from 86 on the relay to the hot wire that goes to the reverse lights since the reverse lights are only on when you put the truck in reverse, the relay will only close and power your backup lights when you are in reverse that's it for that scenario 2: if you wanted to control the lights with a separate switch only: all of the above would be the same EXCEPT !! the wire going to #86 on the relay gets run to where ever you want the switch to be (dash I presume), if you are using a lighted switch it will have 3 terminals on it this is where each goes switch: terminal one - ground terminal 2 - 12 volt power only on with the key ( so you don't accidentally hit the switch and leave the lights on all day) terminal 3 - this goes to number 86 on the relay if the switch is an unlighted switch it's the same as above minus the ground wire scenario 3 lights on when in reverse or when you flip a switch same as first scenario EXCEPT you would also run a wire from number 86 of the relay to a switch than follow scenario 2, this way when in reverse the back up lights would come on, but if you are not in reverse you can flip the switch to turn them on when ever you want ( say if your camping and unloading the truck and need light, you don't want to have to have the truck in reverse do you??) Hope that wasn't too complicated, any questions ask me, most relays are all numbered on the bottom next to the pins, if you buy a set of lights it will probably come with a harness and relay, if not the type you want is a SPST or also known as a normally open relay
  3. guess that's what happens when your home from work with an injury, unfortunately I have to go back to work tomorrow on light duty, 3 day week ends every week don't hurt either!! LOL
  4. Can't believe it's only been 24 days and my "title" went from "newbie" to "veteran", LOL, and I have 160 posts already!! Just an observation
  5. the thread of the lug nuts is 12mm x 1.25,
  6. wanted to re-post this in the general forum so more people would be likely to see it, I posted this before in the 86.5 - 89 section: I have FSM's for the following if anyone needs anything, I have them in PDF files so I can also e-mail copies, I also have the Nissan FAST program, (the same program the dealer uses in the parts dept to look up parts, also good for getting diagrams, decoding VIN numbers and finding out which options came on a certain car or truck, just in case anyone doesn't know what FAST is), I can't e-mail the FAST program as the file sizes are extremely large but I will help anyone that downloads it and needs help setting it up it can be a pain in the neck to set up. Infiniti: 1994 G20 1994 Q45 (paper & Pdf) 1995 Q45 2002 G20 2003 G35 2004 G35 Nissan: 1987 pickup/pathfinder (paper copy from my old hardbody) 1994 Altima 1994 Pathfinder 1994 Sentra 1995 Maxima 1995 Pathfinder 1995 Truck and Pathfinder supplement 1996 Altima 1996 D21 truck 1997 Altima 1997 Maxima 1998 Sentra 2000 Quest 2003 Sentra 2003 Xterra 2004 Sentra 2005 Altima 2005 Frontier 2005 Titan other makes: 1985 Toyota truck 1988 Toyota pickup V6 book (paper copy from wife's old truck) 1996 Toyota Tacoma 2000 Jeep Cherokee 2001 Dodge Ram ( want to talk about a big manual!!! 2889 pages!!!) also for any not listed if you go to www.autozone.com and register (free) they have pretty much every manual other than real new cars & trucks), the diagrams that come up look like factory service manual diagrams.
  7. how about these: they list different part numbers for different years but these are the only 2 images that come up, one shows left side components the other right side components
  8. I have FSM's for the following if anyone needs anything, I have them in PDF files so I can also e-mail copies, I also have the Nissan FAST program, (the same program the dealer uses in the parts dept to look up parts, also good for decoding VIN numbers and finding out which options came on a certain car or truck, just in case anyone doesn't know what FAST is), Infiniti: 1994 G20 1994 Q45 (paper & Pdf) 1995 Q45 2002 G20 2003 G35 2004 G35 Nissan: 1987 pickup/pathfinder (paper copy from my old hardbody) 1994 Altima 1994 Pathfinder 1994 Sentra 1995 Maxima 1995 Pathfinder 1995 Truck and Pathfinder supplement 1996 Altima 1996 D21 truck 1997 Altima 1997 Maxima 1998 Sentra 2000 Quest 2003 Sentra 2003 Xterra 2004 Sentra 2005 Altima 2005 Frontier 2005 Titan other makes: 1985 Toyota truck 1988 Toyota pickup V6 book (paper copy from wife's old truck) 1996 Toyota Tacoma 2000 Jeep Cherokee 2001 Dodge Ram ( want to talk about a big manual!!! 2889 pages!!!) also for any not listed if you go to www.autozone.com and register (free) they have pretty much every manual other than real new cars & trucks), the diagrams that come up look like factory service manual diagrams.
  9. lol, I think that is an M1 style wing if I'm not mistaken
  10. other things I have seen people do is to cut the factory bump stops to make them lower or to replace the stock bump stops with a low profile one from companies such as energy suspension, but you really would be better with the aftermarket UCA's
  11. sorry I said recommended but should have added that it was possible
  12. knock sensor on a pathfinder engine? I can imagine when I bought my new/used JDM engine I saw where it is located, was going to have it replaced before the new engine went in than saw the price, actually it is the same part number as the ones for the Q45 V8 , so my mechanic left the JDM one installed, actually the only part he swapped from the old engine to the JDM engine was the throttle body as the old one had cruise new one did not.
  13. that's not the answer I was looking for !! LOL
  14. do you mean stock chrome Nissan wheels? if so according to the FSM they are 15 x 6", the recommended wheel width for a 31/10.50/15 is 7 to 9 inches, as for the CV joint you can buy the complete CV axle for about $60 ( I just looked it up on local auto parts site), I don't think it would be that hard to do if you have some clue on what you are doing, I would recommend downloading the factory service manual for your truck and reading over the instructions, if it's not something you are comfortable doing see if anyone on here is close to where you live or take it to a mechanic. Where do you live??
  15. the amp on the left is a 2200 I bought new in 91, had it updated once by PPI, it is a dual mono design 200 x 2 and powers my 2 -12's, the amp on the right I bought off e-bay a few years ago, it is one of the rarer one's which has the digital crossover built in with 2 presets that is controlled by a separate controller which connects to the amp thru a fiber optic cable, (no noise), kind of ahead of their time for when it was introduced. The problem for me was finding the controller which took over a year, than having fiber optic cables made up. the right amp is 50x2 and 75x2, model 5075dx
  16. replacing the stock upper control arms let's you crank the torsion bars slightly more for more lift and still maintain some downward travel of the suspension, the tubular design incorporates a different angle where the ball joint sits, which helps in re-aligning the front end. If you crank the torsion bars to get more lift using the stock upper control arms as you raise the front end the control arm get's closer to the bump stop. Once the arm is sitting up against the bump stop you have no downward travel of the suspension, and also raising the front end that much provides a very firm ride.
  17. and this one: http://billpruittphotography.smugmug.com/
  18. this is the one I was looking for,, found it, check this out http://www.muddigras.com/
  19. check out some Florida muddin: http://www.stroid.net/photos.htm
  20. Took the drivers side window switch apart today, problem I'm having is the pass. rear window won't do anything either from the drivers front switch or the pass. door switch, well that's not entirely true it did roll down one time from the drivers front switch but wouldn't roll back up, I had to pull the door panel and run power to the motor directly to get the window back up. Anyway took the drivers front switch apart today and armed with my test light found that I have power going thru the contacts for the pass. rear window ( in the drivers front switch I mean) but still don't get a response from the window. Don't think it's likely there is a break in the wire but in the FSM it shows a circuit breaker before each power window motor, does anyone know if this breaker trips if it is the auto resettable type? or does it have to be replaced?? At the junkyard the drivers front switch must be just as popular as the glove box latch cause I haven't seen either one yet. I know there is a power window amp inside the pass. side kick panel but haven't taken that out yet to take it apart. Anyone have any ideas before I need to find a new switch? Thanks all.
  21. that reminds me of what the guys on the NICO site told me when I had to pull the intake off on the Infiniti Q45 we used to have to replace the knock sensors, they told me don't worry about trying to save all the hoses just cut them all off and get new one's! yeah at what would have cost about $200!! I pulled the intake off without cutting any of them, did end up cracking the plenum putting it back on, a $100 mistake but boy did it run after new knock sensors and a fuel pump!!! almost Corvette like!!

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