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ahardb0dy

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Everything posted by ahardb0dy

  1. 94 pathfinder, one of the previous owners for what ever reason cut 4 wires out of 6 off of one of the relay sockets under the hood and hooked the wires up to a standard relay, the relay is just forward of where the wiper bottle mounts, the socket that was cut out is Grey and there is also a blue relay right next to this one. I think this relay controls whether the truck can be started in gear or not, If I disconnect the power wire that they ran directly to the battery the truck won't even crank, when the relay is connected it will crank no matter what gear it is in (ex. park, reverse, drive, 1,2,etc), I know it's not supposed to do that. There are 2 wires in the factory relay socket that aren't even hooked up and I think this may have something to do with it cranking no matter where the auto shifter is. I see these 3 plugs in the electrical section of the factory service manual I think it may be one of these" 4m - park/neutral position relay (VG30E engine A/T model) 9m - inhibitor relay (wagon A/T model with ASCD) 51m - A/T indicator relay problem is I can't find a diagram that shows the same color wires that this relay socket has anywhere in the service manual, as I said there are 6 wires going to this relay socket, it is Grey, 2 of the wires are thicker than the other four and, (I cut one of these relay sockets out of a truck at the junkyard so I could repair the harness in my truck but I don't have it in front of me right now) but I think one of the thick wires is black with a pink stripe and the other thick wire is black with a different color stripe, I will post the colors tomorrow. Just wanted to know if someone could tell me what this relay is for and where I might find the diagram showing the wire colors in the FSM? Thanks
  2. Just wondering if anyone was from the Orlando, Florida area?
  3. It's weird cause I took the wiper bottle out of the truck and found the front pump is leaking from the bottom so I took it apart and put some silicone around the edge, but even with the leak when I hooked the pump up to my power supply in my shed it pumped fine, same with the rear pump, I put the tube into a cup of water and it worked fine, so when I put the bottle back in the truck neither one works, so that leads me to believe there is a problem with one of the tubes.
  4. where does the tube run for the rear windshield washer fluid? I mean where it comes into the truck and runs to the rear? i see it coming thru a grommet inside the fender liner and I think I can feel it inside the kick panel but from there I lose it, does it run along the floor or above under the edge of the headliner?
  5. it seemed to have fixed the leak on mine, haven't had any really hard rain lately but I hosed the area where I did before and I didn't see any water inside the cab.
  6. well today I tried pressing on each setting of the shock switch and pushing down on the rear bumper and I can say now that I can def. feel a difference between sport and comfort !! What a difference sport makes. Well at least I know they work so the light in the switch must be out. thanks
  7. went to the junkyard yesterday, picked up 2 resistors, one out of a older hardbody pickup, and one out of a 95 pathfinder, got home and tried both of them and they both work fine, so I left the newer one installed, also picked up the 2 heater hoses, so now I have all fan speeds and heat, and the AC comes on but still needs to be charged. Still need that hard to find glove box latch!!!
  8. was under the truck yesterday, all the shocks are the factory adjustable type, I pushed down on the rear bumper and the rear of this truck moves up and down very easily, didn't notice if it kept bouncing after I stopped
  9. just hosed down the windshield area and around the door and on the fender to check to see if leak is still there, checked inside after wetting each spot and did not see any water !! Might have got it, going to wait until after a heavy rain before I say it's 100% fixed. Ok here is a pic of where I saw the water leaking from:
  10. the hardbody was available to 97 but the V6 was not, that's why I was looking for a 95
  11. shocks are the adjustable type, it's not a big deal if the switch doesn't work, I'll probably replace them with a normal set eventually. In my 87 Hardbody, don't know about now but back in the day when they first came out Rancho did not make the 3 way adjustable shocks for the fronts of the Nissan pickup or pathfinder's, but the funny thing was that Gabriel ( who made the shocks for Rancho at the time) had the 3 way adjustable shocks for the fronts of the Nissan trucks, and those are the ones I had in mine, plus the Gabriel's came with urethane bushings, the rancho's they were seperate.
  12. I'm going to try to take a picture of that bracket so more people can have an idea what we are talking about, for now I put some silicone in the lower corner of the windshield trim, tomorrow I'm going to hit it with the hose again to see what happens, if it still leaks I'll pull the fender and cowl off this weekend to investigate more, thanks for the reply.
  13. I'll probably end up buying a new one they seem pretty cheap, I was just wondering if there was a seal that could be replaced without taking the hole thing apart, thanks
  14. I'm going to grab some switches next time I hit the junk yard, I took the pass. side front switch apart as it would go down but would not go up every time, just taking the switch apart and pressing on the copper contacts made the window work fine. The pass. rear window went down ok but than was dead, I had no power anywhere at the switch or the harness. I than took the drivers side front switch apart and even jumping the pass. side lock with a screwdriver and trying to operate the pass. rear window I got nothing.
  15. cool, I have never been over there but it looks like you are South of the Tampa area, my parents used to have a house over near Clearwater
  16. oh, ok, didn't think you meant us, LOL only thing is he is into low riders,
  17. just realized I posted this in the wrong section, can a moderator move this please? thanks
  18. ok, went out before and ran some water down over the windshield, water started coming in and running down onto the pass. floor, looked under the dash with a flashlight and see where water is coming in from, still not sure how it is getting in though. there is a bracket that mounts the AC/heater box ?? it is up on the curved part of the floor I guess it is the inner fender, water is coming out from under the top part of this "U" shaped bracket. Also noticed in the lower corner of the windshield there is what appears to be a gap under the trim, no idea if this is where the water is coming in from but I applied some silicone under the trim, after it dries I will try the water test again, and hope fully that was the leak. My truck has a sunroof, we ran water down the drains and it exited out under the truck, no sign of water inside when we did this.
  19. thanks, going to hose it down again after I eat dinner
  20. thanks I'm going to pick up a new resistor in 2 weeks I just can't understand how 3 coils of wire that is in the resistor can fail ??
  21. thanks, the paint looks pretty good now other than the hood which the paint is toast but I would like to find a later model hardbody hood, the one with the power bulge and and no grilles in the front edge for it, black would be even better so no painting. The roof paint is bad but I wet sanded a small spot and it should come back. I used Mothers on the body the 3 step process and it looks really good now. As I said earlier the wheels I just cleaned and I re-painted the 4 center caps. I was missing the rear wing, my co-worker who sold it to me took it off to use on his 93 as well as the factory side steps, he has the 93 pathfinder a XE, and 2 hardbody pickup low riders, one on air bags one lowered using blocks, oh and a Murano too. Anyway I found the rear wing at the junk yard shot it with flat black also painted the spare tire carrier. The inside carpet is shot but I may pickup one from www.oem-surplus.com, you guys ever hear of them?? Surplus Nissan OEM parts at like 80 % off retail, I bought a brand new 5 speed trans from them for my Sentra for $450 delivered!!! Yes the heater core is bypassed my co worker told me the hose cracked or something but the core is supposed to be ok, I'll find out when I pick up the 2 hoses from the junkyard in 2 weeks. I traded my 87 hardbody after owning it for over 14 years on a (forgive me here) Dodge Dakota 4X4 club cab with the V8, I should have kept the nissan wish I did now, I was so stupid back than I didn't even pull out my 160 amp dual output Wrangler alternator that I had in it !! So I got rid of the Dakota after 3 years and needed transportation to go to work and limited my search to Nissan's and found my 90 Sentra which I got for $580 and now have about $2000 into, it has over 217K miles, I beat the crap out of it, has a brand new 5 speed, all original motor and still gets 28 to 31 MPG driving 40 miles one way to work!! can't beat it. I always wanted anothe harbody 4x4 and really wanted to find a 95 (last year of that body style) with the king cab 4x4 V6 5 speed but people were asking outrageous prices for them, so a few months ago I had my co worker over to play some Rock band and he told me he would sell me his 94 pathfinder for $500, I didn't have $500 but I had credit with Dell so I bought him a $500 laptop !! Now we're both happy, he's glad his old truck is now in the hands of someone that will take better care of it and I will with help from you guys. thanks again for the welcome, many more topics and replies to follow. Oh, owning the D21 for so long def has helped so far with the WD21!!
  22. 94 Pathfinder, I was checking all the power windows and got to the pass. rear, it rolled down fine from the door switch but than wouldn't go back up or down or anything, took the switch apart and tried to make it move by pressing on the contacts, ( as i just finished doing on the pass. front window switch which worked), anyway nothing by pressing the contacts, so I pulled the door panel and checked the connectors going to the switch and the one going to the window motor, nothing no power anywhere, couldn't figure out the FSM diagram so I ended up running a positive and negative directly to the battery and finally got the window to roll back up. So now I have a new problem, any idea where else to check on this? Thanks
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