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jgt

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Posts posted by jgt

  1. Your fine,I ran a 245-75-16 with 3 245-70-16s for 15k and nothing bad happen.I have the same truck as you by the way,there good trucks and lets hope you got one with the 5.4 triton.

     

    yeah, but mine is 17" wheels and the spare is a 16". Thanks for everyone's replies, sounds like it's 'okay in a pinch' but don't run it on 4wd or on the rear wheel if at all possible. btw, yes I did the the 5.4 triton, why, are the other engines bad?

  2. Not pathfinder related, but f150. Looks like the fx4 we bought is missing the spare tire. Can I run a 265/75-16 spare on when my actual wheels are 265/70-17? Or is the diameter too small? I can pick up one for $25 and would like to have something if I flat. Thanks!

  3. With the oil pan you will need to swap the oil pickup tube as well.

    Remove the pilot bushing and MT flywheel as you won't need it for the auto, swap over the torque converter....

    The 2wd has a partial water pump compared to the 4x4, the wider one can be put in with the 4x4 timing covers to seal up the sides of the cover better.

     

    yep, just like he said. We put a 2wd 1994 engine in my 4wd 1992 pathfinder, those are exactly the parts we moved over. ps dont forget to transfer the oil dip stick, oil pan depth is different.

  4. as far as i know, it's the original alt. The batt light only flickered once, while idling, then went away. The battery is new. I checked the belt, it has some cracks in it, but I can't see/tell if it's glazed. I suppose it could be electrical, but everything had been fine until we tightened up the belt. I will take it into Napa and see what they say.

  5. Hi all- my belt was squeaking the last month or so, so my BF tightened up the alt belt and squeak is gone. But today, the alt. light was flickering on/off. What do you guys think? Could the loose belt for a month have caused the alt. to go bad or did we tighten it too much? thanks all. julie

  6. found it, thanks for your help guys. Will adjust it this weekend. hope this link works.

     

    4557319080_99bcf01549_b.jpg

     

    ** update: done this weekend! easy just like you said, two 12mm wrenches and tightened up the slack. Also adjusted the alt. belt and no more squeak! thanks guys

  7. what would cause a single *loud* backfire? It never did it before and never did it again, just one time. the only thing that's been happening recently is a squeaky belt right at start-up (not sure which belt is squeaky).

  8. i'm thinking oil pan gasket

    it only leaks when i'm standing still, there is no oil trail behind me or anything like that

    the oil pan and the crossmember is wet with oil i don't see anything else

    will check the bottom of my timing cover soon just to be sure (it better not be the oil pump gasket :headwall: )

     

    I had a leak from the oil pan gasket. I thought it was the rms, but my guess was the rubber gasket got pinched when the 2nd clutch was installed.

  9. thanks for your input guys. I am hoping when we jack it up and replace the bolts this weekend, the control arm and axle will look more 'straightened out' rather than saggy like now. btw, the rust is just the thing when you are in Hawaii, esp. if you're a beach bum like myself.

  10. I found 1 of misisng balljoint screws that came undone and they were cross threaded during installation. So I got 2 new bolts from Napa. If I replace the two bolts and locktite them, is this totally unsafe to drive cuz that bj boot is torn? It's got only a few thousand miles on this cv/balljoint. Does it look like I did any more damage (i.e. tre or ??) other than the Cv boot and lower BJ from the pix? I included a pix of the driver side for comparison to the bad side.

    post-2922-1250620339_thumb.jpg

    post-2922-1250620370_thumb.jpg

    post-2922-1250620393_thumb.jpg

  11. so I looked under my truck cuz another cv boot got ripped, just had the mechanic replace both axles ball joints. Then I see 2 of the lowerball joint screws missing. The head of the screw worked it's way up and punctured the cv boot. So that 'new' balljoint is toast and I'm gonna have to replace that boot again. I'm so done with the clowns who worked on my truck.

  12. if a starter relay is bad, would it cause this problem? turns over strong and tries to crank but won't start. Will have to try many times and it'll finally start. I just got the a/c relay fixed on my toyota (interminent warm air blowing and they said it was a relay) Starts great 98% of the time, but wondering if a relay can act up like this? Or does it just not turn over if the relay is bad? thanks

  13. I just wanted to update this topic in case anyone else has the problem.

     

    In my case it turned out to be the wiring going to the TPS, not the sensor itself. Sometimes I could wiggle the wires while the engine was running and cause the issue to kick in. I got some new connectors and as much of the wire as I could from the junkyard and swapped it in and the problem hasn't returned.

     

     

    hi scott-can you tell me where is wiring is located? I think I may have the same issue. thanks!

  14. hi all-seems like the same gremlin is back on my 92 pathy. It runs like a champ 99% of the time, then occassionally it either 1) doesn't start but cranks strong 2) dies while I'm driving down the road or 3) acts like it will die while driving. Then it'll run okay, but it makes me nervous cuz it'll stop in the middle of the road while I'm driving sometimes.

     

    I recently replaced the ignition switch (but not the key lock), fuel filter (ok not leaking), battery, battery ground cables and checked the fusible links (ok).

     

    I'm thinking fuel pump relay, o2 sensor or MAF issue. Any other thoughts? What hoses do I need to check? It was running great for 2 months, after the new fuel filter, now issue has returned. I'm hoping it's something simple. Thanks to everyone, julie

  15. If you put it back down to stock height, with stock suspension components, you shouldn't need an alignment unless its pulling and it's noticeably out of wack. Which you state it isn't.

     

    The extreme angle of the CV axles when the torsion bars are at full crank and/or suspension lift tends to rip the boots.

     

    I'd say it's not a necessity, and can wait. I don't know the history of your truck before this post, however.

     

    sorry, should have given history.

     

    1)Had tre, ctrlink, ball joints, and cv boots installed few months back, then alignment done immediately after when the torsion bars were cranked.

    2)tore thru those boots, now just had new axles installed and torsion bars lowered. lesson learned.

    3)So it's currently aligned as if it were still w/ cranked bars. now i'm being a cheapskate or just do the alignment? Will it harm anything else besides tires?

  16. so I got the torsion bars lowered and new cv axles. I guess they were tearing and got loose because the retaining clip wasn't installed properly. I wonder is it like a c clip? Maybe the angles were so tweaked when the bars were cranked all the way up..anyhow I hope all is fixed now.

     

    So, do I have to get an alignment right away? Don't wanna spend $80 right now but will I do damage to my hubs or suspension if I wait? The truck isn't pulling one side or the other. thanks, julie

  17. thanks for the replies guys. That's what I thought, about the stock tires being bigger. I thought maybe it had these size tires on the SE, not the XE like I have. And I thought maybe the SE had upgraded suspension or something, so I didnt' argue with him. I'll pick up the vehicle tomorrow or wednesday and get the whole story. If he won't do it, I'll take it to a 4x4 shop here in town and they'll tweak it right for me. thanks again.

  18. so my truck is in for it's 2nd set of cv axles and 2nd set of ball joints (plus CL and TRE) in only a few thousand miles. I'm guessing the truck has been lifted so it's eating through the suspension parts. So I've got 30x9.5x15 on the truck, the stock is 235x75x15". I asked him to lower the torsion spring and bring it back to stock and re-align it. He said since the truck doesn't have stock tires, it he won't do it. (it's currently shimmed/aligned for the current height) But the difference works out to be 241x79x15 when converted. Should I just set the torsion bar myself and have it re-aligned? Anyone else running bigger tires and eating through suspension parts? I just wanna be able to do some mildish 4x4ing on this truck w/o tearing through parts every 3 months. Thanks!

     

    I'll attach a couple pix. Does it look stock height? btw, when the nerf bars were on, the weight really brought the truck down.

  19. Engine swap...

     

    might be the same thing that happened to me. I have a 4x4 and swapped a 2wd engine. they have different oil pans. If you changed oil pans (the 2wd is deeper) and forgot the change the dipstick, it probably is stuck. Mine broke in there (actually, 2 dipsticks have broke!), but the pick up filter in the oil pan keeps if from going anywhere. If you need a 4x4 dipstick, holler at me. I have an extra. -julie

  20. so I don't know if I need a new one, I just have to sit there and wiggle the key for like a couple of mins then it starts its so weird. but I think I'll get a new ignition anyway, unless someone knows what that problem is? that would be a big help. :crossedwires:

     

    Tyrhine-

    If you don't need the entire lock cylinder, just get the switch. It was only the switch that was bad and I didn't want to drill out the lock and have 2 set of keys. The switch is only one tiny screw and disconnect the wiring harness. But for some odd reason, my switch from napa was 'oriented' the wrong way. see pix in earlier thread. let me know how it works out.

     

    btw, the chilton's says to pull the steering column, I just removed the screws on the plastic covers. Just be careful, I broke some plastic tabs and it fits loose now.

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