JamesRich
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Posts posted by JamesRich
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On 3/18/2019 at 7:02 AM, adamzan said:
You should get a small car to keep the mileage off of your trucks!
I'm thinking electric! I'm spending $80 to $90 a week on fuel! That would pay a note on a small electric car, leaf maybe!
James
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7 hours ago, Mrelcocko said:
I live in Lenoir City. My brother owns a fly fishing guide business. He's the man when it comes to trout waters in Tennessee. Rockytopanglers.com is his company website. He's on facebook you should check him out. Nice to know I have a fellow NPORA member close by.
Sent from my SM-S737TL using Tapatalk
Thanks for the welcome! I love it up here, not sure my pathfinder likes it up here though! I took it to work once and it don't like the mountains! Burned a half tank for the two hour round trip! got it floored going up most of the hills too! It sat for a few months in louisiana before I had a chance to bring it up so I'll give it a good tune up this weekend and try again next week. My Ram 3500 dully makes a whole week back and forth to work on one tank! Can't beat a cummins for power and fuel mileage!
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On 3/1/2019 at 9:17 AM, mjotrainbrain said:
Isn't Windrock near or in Tennessee? You could attend WENT Windrock this fall and wheel with a bunch of other Nissans! I always wanted to drive down to that event.
I'll have to do some searching, so far I don't know where much is up here! I live in Grandview and work in Lenoir city. slowly learning in between! I definitely plan to do some fishing up here!
James
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Brought my pathfinder from louisiana up to my new home in Tennessee! Now to find some places to wheel!
James
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8 hours ago, AlabamaDan said:
Day off from work today so I casually changed the oil in between football games, meals, and games with the family. I'm not exactly sure when it was last changed, but it definately time. It was really dark and the filter was heavy.
I loaded it up with 5w-20 Mobil 1 Full Synthetic and a Mobil 1 filter. (M1-110A). The end of the plug had some sludge on it. The inside of the oil cap had some caked on oil that I had to scrub to get off. Where the filter spins on had some gunk too. Well, now everything is clean and I'll keep an eye on it. I think the Mobil 1 will clean it up over time. I thought about getting some oil additive, but decided against that stuff. I'm afraid it's snake oil. Right before the next oil change I may run some Seafoam in it. I'll probably change it after 5k for a while.
Put some marvel mystery oil in there if you want to clean it out, works really good and it's been around forever and I've never heard of anyone having trouble with it. It will even clean out the ring lands and stop oil burning from stuck rings.
James
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You painted that frog in the picture too?
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20 hours ago, Slartibartfast said:
^I've got the little brother of that for TREs. Works great. Considered picking up the big one too but couldn't justify the price for something I rarely use.
I've got a snap on 1000 series 4 box set full of things I rarely use. But when I need it it's there! That is at least when people that borrow them bring them back! The only problem with having a lot of tools, friends think I run a loaner company!
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3 hours ago, RedPath88 said:
Obviously you've never encountered a WD/D21 with the pitman arm stuck on the steering box!
y'all just need a better puller! I got a snap on cupped style puller years ago and never had a problem pulling a pitman arm again. Even on big ford 3/4 and 1 tons.
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1 hour ago, Slartibartfast said:
That sucks!
Don't beat on the crank bolt. The crank can't move fore and aft enough to matter, not unless something's gone horribly wrong with the crank bearings. If the flexplate is scraping the starter, the flexplate is bent. The three bolts you left in the torque converter may have bent the flexplate equally so it doesn't wobble but I'm guessing it's dish-shaped now compared to what it should be, if that makes sense. Hopefully the torque converter didn't take any damage. It doesn't look obviously damaged in the picture. You've still got a good flexplate on the scrap motor, right? I'm sure you're as excited to pull the engine again as I am to bleed my brakes again but I don't think you're gonna fix this without taking it apart and swapping that out. Even if you could shim the sensor and the starter I'd be concerned about the torque converter sitting forward from where it's supposed to be and possibly causing issues like this.My thoughts exactly! If you did dish the flex plate, it may not be enough in front of the sensor to pick up correctly. If you can't see in the sensor hole directly use your endoscope to look in there and see how it lines up. I would pull the transmission to change that instead of pulling the motor again.
James
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That looks great! I have been offline because my old computer crashed!! Built a new one and good to go!
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I used purple power to clean my heads when I had them off. I think i mixed it like 1 to 1 with water so it was really strong.
James
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1 hour ago, adamzan said:
Maybe bad intake manifold gaskets? The oem ones are beasty metal things. The aftermarket ones I put in felt cheap.
I thought about the intake leaking but the coolant passes on each end, and the middle cylinder on the passenger side is the only one that got coolant in it. I have the modified TBI intake with a carburetor on it. I've been starting it morning and night and it runs fine. After I get my dye tester I'll start driving it again.
James
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20 hours ago, onespiritbrain said:
Wow man that sucks and I hate it for you. I really do... what are you going to do?
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkI've checked it out really good and can't find any indication of a head gasket leaking! For that much coolant to get in a cylinder, it would have to be a pretty good leak. I let it sit 2 days with the plug out and no coolant collected in the cylinder. It runs perfect and no bubbles in radiator or blowing coolant out. Every time I check the radiator it is full, not loosing any coolant. Not sure how all that coolant got in that cylinder but i'm starting to think foul play! I'll have to start parking it where my security cameras can see it. I'll try running my dye tester on it and if it doesn't show anything I'll start driving it again and see what happens. I'll always be nervous when I first bump the key now!
James
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VG34ER
in The Garage
That's awesome! I've got all the parts to build one just hadn't cut the pistons yet. Has anyone come out with a VG34 head gasket yet? Or the VG33 gasket still working?
James
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Damn! So it turned from a seeping head gasket to the whole motor! Just freshen up that motor and you will know you have something good.
I think reading your post jinxed me! I got a head gasket leaking on mine now! I went to stat it monday to go to work and the motor locked! pulled the plugs when I got home and the middle cylinder on the passenger side was full of coolant. I have VG33 heads on a VG30 block though and I used cheap head gaskets from rock auto! I thought all was good with the different heads, they have been on there for 13K miles with no issues. I got the water out and the motor still runs good and idles smooth. It may have been like this for a while just never stopped that cylinder on a compression stroke.
James
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There's not enough room on the new server for that story!!
James
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My ex's 01 Quest was starting to slip between shifts at wot, I started changing the trans oil every time I changed the engine oil and it fixed the problem. There's no filter to replace. I just drained the pan, and then topped it back up. It went another 60K miles since I started that with no problems. It was still going strong when the dumb bitch parked it because the alternator quit around 200K miles! I do the same with my titan now, I just have to buy the special oil for it instead of picking it up at walmart.
James
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Your issue sounds like the typical distributor module problem. That's the only problem I ever had with my factory set up. Mine would just be really hard to start once it was warm but ran pretty normal once it was running, just don't turn it off! I'd have to crank it for minutes to get it to start when it was hot! Almost left my ass 5 miles back in the woods one time!
James
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I'm an old WD21 guy so I assumed you had a 3.5 in that truck! One head is cleaner than the other, maybe the cleaner head had been replaced before you got it. You should take the rocker shafts off before you pull the head bolts, it's much easier. Just make sure you use a torque wrench to put them back. It's a very low torque, like 15 pounds I think, and are easy to strip if you over tighten. Are you just pulling the one head? If I were that far I'd pull both. That way you know they are both fresh. They usually sell the gaskets in sets anyway.
James
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Sorry I haven't been around, life has been busy! for future reference, Yes 123456 is the firing order starting with #1 on the passenger head and alternating back and forth going back. You will need to tune the carb too, in factory set up it's way too rich. It's been 5 yearn now and it's still running good. Starts with just a bump of the key and always runs good!
Also yes I made the spacer plate myself. I'd seen this style plate for 4 barrels but not for 2 barrels so I made my own, mostly to hold the throttle cable.
James
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If you like carburetors just do what I did!
5 years later still running good! I did have to do a lot of tuning to the carb to get the mixtures right using a wide band. It ran really rich with the carb factory. I drilled the metering block and made jets out of 6-32 setscrews for the power circuit. Was way cheaper than adjustable blocks.
James
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If a cylinder was leaking and coolant getting in, the piston will be cleaner than the rest. The dye test is usually pretty definite that there isn't a leak though. I think I'd try one of those little tubes of powdered stop leak next! That's the best way to stop small leaks that you can't find.
James
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yes i would replace that hose, it could be leaking between the layers. Make sure you get coolant hose and not fuel line also. Some parts people don't know there's a difference. If you can't find small coolant hose at a parts house check a big truck dealer.
James
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Well that confirmed you don't have combustion gasses getting into the cooling system then. I can't figure what else would let air into the cooling system. Possibly the water pump or a small leak on the suction side of the pump pulling in air when its running but I would think something like that would drip coolant when you shut it down. Good luck finding this problem, I'll be watching.
What did you do to your Pathfinder today?
in The Garage
Posted
The fun already began if you got it out already!
James