colinnwn

You mean my 2" suspension lift?

I did it like 14 years ago and I used Automotive Customizers 2" heavy duty lift springs front and rear, with a camber kit in the front. There are much cheaper ways to do it now, and with better ride quality. I think I'd consider OME HD front springs and Land Rover rear springs. There are lots of recent threads on the forum with guys who have done it with these parts and are more knowledgeable about the specific parts to use now.

Doing a subframe drop is the other way to lift it. But it is a ton of work, and you need to do some custom fabrication. It can also allow the CV joints to overextend, whereas a suspension lift will never allow that to happen because it can't extend beyond it's original design.

Here is my blog on it...

http://colinnwn.blogspot.com/2007/12/installing-suspension-lift-on-my-2001.html

After replacing the brake switch rubber bushing and it taking 2 hours, I agree with it being impossible, and that was a no-go for me. 

On my 2001, the ACSD (cruise control box) is behind the driver kick plate. In the connector going into it, on the bottom left 2nd to the last position (23) there should be a green/yellow stripe wire that goes to the brake switch.

If your splice were to break the whole wire, it means that the cruise control wouldn't automatically kick off when you press the brake. I never use this method to disconnect the cruise, I always use the button and in an emergency I expect I'd stab the clutch (which would still disconnect the cruise), so it wasn't an issue to me.

If that didn't work, my 2nd plan was to send a wire back in the loom all the way to the actual left rear tail light and connect it to the bulb wire. I already had a wire running up there to tap into the white back up light for the 7 pin.

I don't remember the colors for the brake switch itself if that's what you want to do. I can post up the service manual PDF and send you a link.