Tungsten

nice

alright both sides are done the bolt i got is incorrect, its too long and locks the rotor in place napa has the right one, part number is 82828 for those interested

i also heard its a good idea to run a compression test while you're there just to make sure its not the rings

On the inside you mean on bottom of the rotor? From what I have seen the wear indicators are usually on the top of the rotor where you can see them but this can be a special case and I would just like to make sure. No need for a C-Clamp? Nice...

ahh thanks that one left me clueless, never seen it done this way before also the damn piston nearly came out of the caliper, is it safe to force it back in or do i need to open the bleeder?

need help again rotors and pads finally here now i have no clue how to put the pads in there is a metal tab on two of them in a set does the pad with the metal tab go on the inside or on the outside?? my old pads fell apart so i have no idea what that tab is for

i like those links

That's crazy! Try getting parts for that engine now... lol

Here is a link for those of you who want to know the exact power band of the VG30E and how it compares to its 4 valve brother... http://www.datsuns.com/Tech/ohv_vs_ohc.htm

krazy glue

Translators are also slightly skewed... You wanted to say: Nice truck Actual translation: Beautiful truck Those are pretty sweet!

Perhaps metal bull bars are restricted over there in Australia for pedestrian safety so they have to resort to plastic ones.

nope been like that for a year now

if your tailgate makes banging noises, make sure your striker does not wiggle, if it does get another one if the striker is good then adjust it more inward so it pulls the tailgate closer and the rattling will be long gone

what I did was sand off the rust and fill the holes with expanding foam then sand over that, primer it, sand it again, paint, buff, and done

Does the first sound occur going over bumps? For the second problem, I think you need to replace those studs. Get them from a dealer and grind the old ones off then install the new ones and done. http://faculty.ccp.edu/faculty/dreed/campi...stail/index.htm

It turns out that the actual bracket can be separated from the caliper without any problems, just slides right off. The stud was frozen in there good, even drilling into it did not do anything useful. So a new hole had to be drilled out and tapped... After spending an entire day trying to drill and tap, I think I may have got it now. Its a 1.25 thread 8mm in diameter, had to use a 6.8mm drill. Found my 8mm bolt in the steering section of the auto parts store! lol The brake pads wore off completely to the steel and ate up the rotors. Ordered new brembo rotors on Amazon (brembo rotors all around now ), everything is going back together as soon as they get here. While I'm at it, my handbrake doesn't appear to be working yet the mini drum shoes are fine... Could it have seized?

well taking the reed switch out and cleaning it made the light go away lol

well these are all good, ill stick with magnaflow too but i doubt you can get much sound out of the good old 3 liter at one point i just had a straight out and it was fine but i needed an actual exhaust to pass the inspection

I was thinking about the JY but there is no guarantee that it will come out and may brake off as well. I hope the dealer has these bolts.

ok I will try to drill it thanks for the tips any idea where i can find a new bolt like this?

Well my brake pads wore out entirely on the rear wheels so I went and got a set at Pepboys for like $20. Then I attempted to install them so I jacked up the truck and took off the rear wheels. I know that the calipers are supposed to swing up but they are locked down with a bolt. So I started to remove the bolt on the right side first since this side was really bad. However no matter what I did I could not get the bolt loose, I tried hammering on it and dousing it in penetrating oil everywhere. So I ended up snapping the bolt off... When I tried the other side and the bolt came right out without any problems. Does this mean I need a new caliper on the right side now? How much does the dealer sell them for, anyone know? I would rather replace the caliper anyway because its been acting funny lately. This is probably going to be my last repair before I get a new car. Anyone want a 91 some later this year or so? It runs fine and has been well maintenanced. $300 or make an offer and hey maybe Ill just give it away. It still needs a tranny cooler but I just don't have the time to do this (which is the reason I'm offering it).

Thanks B This is actually a reed switch, I bet the float is stuck, will give a few whacks on the container...

Upon a closer examination, the oil leak was coming from the bottom of the transmission where it is connected to the engine. I wiped the area with a rag to check it out and it appears that it could be coming from the drain plug. Could it be the drain plug? After cleaning the area out, starting the engine and driving in a circle, there is no more leak. If it comes back I am suspecting that when the oil was changed the drain plug was not torqued correctly. The manual specifies the tightening torque to be 22 to 29 ft-lb. on the drain plug. As for brakes, nothing is leaking right now but when I topped off the container to the max level with DOT 3 brake fluid the BRAKE light on the dashboard came on (my handbrake is down). I will do some more observations on that but I am sure it could be the Master Cylinder. The MC was replaced around 2 years ago and I am suspecting that the replacement part could be crap. I could not find any weep holes on there but there is a probe inserted below the fluid container. Could that be the weep hole probe or something?