pathybuilder

I just figured it out, while still in your album, scroll over the image on photobucket, a little dialogue box comes up with 4 different links. The bottom one is an image code. Click on it, and it copies it automatically, go back into your post, right click and paste. No need for the little tree looking icon, it just messes it up because photobucket puts the image code in for you. You won't see your photo unless you preview post. Hope this helps.

Welcome, Truck looks nice, sounds like you have some big plans. In my opinion, if you're good at driving a manual transmission (which it sounds like you are), it's far superior to an automatic offroad, and isn't that hard either. I feel I have a lot more control driving standard. You'll get a lot of differing opinions here, or on any offroad forum however.

Ahardbody ran my VIN, came back as an XE. Stock Chrome wheels, no sport comfort switch, headrests are solid. No wires going to my shocks, radio antenna is not power. I figured this much after searching the other posts, just a special edition XE with a sunroof. Thanks though

If the current system isn't too rusted, and you think you can get it apart, I wouldn't take the sawzall to it, just in case you want to use it again. Mine was bad so cutting it off was my only option. If I remember from you're other post, you're installing pacesetters. You are correct The flange on the Y-pipe will bolt up to the flange on the intermediate pipe, so you can install the O2 sensor and drive to the exhaust shop. The fitment between these flanges isn't great which may just be the quality of the pacesetters. This is also the flange that tends to leak causing rusty floors and carpet fires (as seen in my photo). If it doesn't fit right I would suggest having the exhaust shop make you a new intermediate pipe. As far as re-using the cat, that's a personal preference if it's in good shape. A high flow cat could yield better results when paired with your headers. Here's a photo of my setup from the cat to the Y-pipe, it's pretty easy for an exhaust shop to do.

I had the exact same problem on a trip up to Alaska a few years back. The heater/AC blower failed a few days after these symptoms. I took the heater blower apart, thinking that the rubbing while turning left was worn parts in the blower causing some rubbing when shifting direction. At the bottom of the DC motor, there's a small bushing looking thing that looked worn, (if I remember correctly). I cut up an electrical stake-on connector (round terminal) and used it as a spacer to prop the fan motor up and re-assmebled. It worked perfectly for another 6 months or so, then failed in the winter. I just replaced the blower and motor with one from a junkyard. It's been fine since. As far as the water dripping, when you take it apart to look at the motor, there's a little rubber hose that connects to the blower that needs to come off, I found that this is where the condensation was coming from, there was a bunch of crap in the elbow that I cleaned out and it's been fine. Not really sure why the condensation was there in the first place, but that's the best answer I have.

That looks good, mine will look similar, not quite as clean, same colour, same bumper. Already ordered 8" rims with 3.75" backspacing and 33" x 12.50" Mickey Thompson MTZ, just waiting for them to show up. I have no idea if it was sold in the US. I've actually never seen another one in Canada either. I've seen some white ones with the pathfinder decals along the rocker panels, I think they are fairly common.

I couldn't agree more, it wasn't bad with the 235/75 R15 tires on it, but the 31s stick out a bit. Flares will come with the build I'm taking on.

Could be time for a transmission re-build. These transmissions tend to starve themselves of oil. Follow this thread for more information.

After reading these last replies and watching the videos I think Mine's an XE and the SE on the side stands for special edition or something. The cloth matches that of the XE, only difference between the XE in the video and mine is that mine has sunroof and way more rust / body damage.

Here's some photos of my "Safari Edition" I don't think in this case it's anything more than a couple decals. No plaques or anything. The safari edition sticker is missing on the rear drivers side as it was in an accident before I got it and the body shop never replaced it. Oh yeah, It does make me feel special lol

You tell me, My registration says "SE", Rear Hatch say "XE", Decals on side Doors say "SE" Rear Quarter Panel (under rear window) says safari edition. Cloth interior (grey), Power Windows, Power Door Locks, 5 spd Manual, 4.375 Gears and a sunroof ??? I think It's an SE, with an incorrect decal on the rear hatch, but who knows.

I think this is a pretty good assumption. I F***ed mine up getting the old Torsion bar out. I know you said you have zero rust, but in my case the drivers side torsion bar was absolutely seized into the adjuster. Lots of penetrating oil left to sit over night and a BFH eventually got it out, but it took a couple of the splines with it. I still drove it for a while, but I'm currently looking for a replacement. Did you happen to notice if the dust boot was was in good shape and on the torsion bar before you took it in. It could make a difference in how hard they had to try to get it out.

Found these on the ARB Australia site the other night. They have outback storage solutions listed on the US site as well, but no photos. Might be worth looking into if you don't want to build your own. Linky US Prices

These look really good. I like the look of the ones that fold down, but as mentioned above, they could be a pain for access to the rear hatch. I was thinking about doing something similar to this too, but was thinking it would be good to make the carrier pivot on the bumper, and have that support the weight of the carrier, as oppose to the factory mounts. Kind of like unccpathfinder did. You could then just use the factory mounts for additional support. It'll take the weight and leverage of the carrier from the horizontal plane and apply it vertically so hopefully you don't have bushings wearing out. It would be a challenge to get everything lined up and work properly without covering up the rear taillight though.

That was what I wanted to do as well,use a power steering belt. Guess that's out of the question. I would imagine theres a belt in between the two, I'm not sure. I would be hesitant to change the pulley. I understand guys will sometimes run a smaller pulley to make the alternator turn faster and get more output., but I wonder what effect that would have on the unit itself. I guess it would be the same as running at a higher RPM, maybe it's just fine.

Here's some photos of the build progress so far. It's slow going, I'm not spending every evening or even weekend working on it as I have other competing priorities. The first step was to remove the rear axle and links as I'm installing 5.143 gears and a detroit locker. The rear lower links are being replaced with the "I beam" style links from a 92 and all bushings are being replaced. I'll keep using the ARB OME rear coils however I've ordered a Daystar 1 1/2" Coil spacer to add a little more lift. I removed the Transfer Case as I'm installing low range gears from Automotive Customizers. Removed Front LCA and UCA's as well as the front differential. The front diff is getting a Calmini LSD carrier and 5.143 gears. I'll be installing Rough Country UCAs, All new bushings, and have to repair the tension rod mounts. I had to cut the mounting bolt from the passenger side LCA off with an angle grinder, and am still working on getting the bushing out. I'm still debating what to do with the steering. Was thinking Calmini, but now I'm seriously considering either the Grassroots link with Dummy box or the 2wd Hardbody set-up. Kind of waiting to see the feedback on the 2wd setup. I removed the gas tank and did a thorough frame inspection with scrappers, wire bush/wheel hammer, chisels etc. There is rust in the typical rear wheel wells, but it certainly isn't swiss cheese. The drain holes are open. My plan is to coat the outside of the frame in POR-15, then hopefully find a way, either spray gun or some other means, to coat the inside of the frame as well to preserve it. I know people have differing views on the pot metal frames, and I could cut it out now and replace, but most guys in this area use POR-15 and swear by it. It has a hardening effect with moisture and stops rust. I'll just have to keep and eye on it in the future. Here's some of the build photos so far.

Been trying to start a build thread for a while and couldn't figure out how to post photos. See if this works. Background I bought this 1995 Pathfinder SE in 2005 with 114000 KM on it. Over the years it's been a competent daily driver and weekend wheeler. Unfortunately I don't have photos from when I first bought it, but I have a few from once I started wheeling it. I took it off the road last april to start a build. I got tired of piecing together aftermarket components and never addressing components like frame rust/timing belt/brakes and other issues. It just needed some love, and now that I have a different daily driver I have all the time I want to slowly dig into this thing. So prior to this build it had 220 000 km and I had already Installed ARB OME 3/4" lift coils, Sway Away T-bars, OME shocks on all 4 corners, 2" Body Lift, ARB front bumper, Mean Green 180A alternator, Pacesetter Headers with high flow cat and Gibson cat back exhaust, and 31 x 10.5 Procomp Extreme MT tires on factory 15" Chrome wheels. It has a bit of trail carnage but here's a few photos before I started tearing it down.

I installed mine with no problems. The Pulley is slightly smaller than OEM so the Alternator was at max adjustment just to keep tension on the belt. Mine failed about 13 months into service. Mean Green replaced it no questions asked (only 12 month warranty) I was blown away. I haven't re-installed it but when I do I'll use a slightly shorter belt to allow more adjustment.

Don't think it's your tires. I assume when you say 70mph you talking about what you're speedo is reading. You are going 75-80 but you won't know that unless your talking GPS speed or something. The speed on the speedo vs gear is related directly to your RPM. I don't think that 3500 RPM at 70mph is that out of the norm. It's been a while since I drove my truck but I'm pretty sure it revs close to 2900 or so at 60. 4.3 gears and a 5 speed.

I haven't seen a spacer specific to the WD21. I recently spent some time at the junk yard looking around at other vehicles trying to find something with more aftermarket support. I found that the front coils in a 97 Dodge 1500 2WD are very similar to the factory WD21 rear coils, or in my case the ARB OME 3/4" med duty coils. The Dodge coils are obviously shorter, but the Inside diameter is identical. The Dodge coils are thicker so the Outside Diameter is about 1/8" larger, however the dodge coil/isolator fit perfectly into the coil bucket on my WD21. I actually just ordered a 1 1/2" coil spacer for a 2WD 94-11 Dodge 1500-3500 from Daystar Part Number KC9013BK, and will certainly post here how it works with the Nissan coils. This is the "budget boost" spacer and cost me $45 CDN. They also make identical spacers in 1" and 2 1/2". Keep in mind that a spacer designed for 1 1/2" lift on the front IFS of the dodge isn't going to be a 1 1/2" spacer, the actual thickness of the spacer is going to be less as there is suspension geometry in the Dodge that Daystar has incorporated into the design. You could also order 1 1/2" lift springs from www.4x4parts.com, Install OME springs for 3/4" or install Jeep Cherokee coils for 3" lift. There's a ton of other threads on here that cover this. The front you can adjust / re-index your torsion bars. Again there's a ton of threads on here for this you'll just have to look around. Hope this helps

Maybe I'm missing the intent here but your R200A front is going to be geared to match the HG43 rear end you had. You're going to want to swap either a full JY axle or third member from an another HG43 truck. The gear ratio is important, don't pull an HG46 rear unless you plan to re-gear the front diff also. Unless your gears are good and you're just replacing the carrier even then not 100% sure. Best to have a look first.

Absolutely rotate it in, if it's close to the same tread depth as the others. As Fleurys said you'll get 20% more wear out of your tires. I wouldn't rotate a brand new spare into 4 already well worn tires. This will wear your spare out quicker and could wear out drive train components due to the different rolling distance front/back in 4WD, or side to side. At 6K I would rotate it in, tires are expensive, the more wear you can get out of them the better. I've always understood the best way to rotate is front Left to rear right, front right to rear left, then just randomly rotate the spare in.

Not sure if this will help at all. I believe this is mostly applicable to the 90-95 Pathfinder with the VG30E, but some might be the same. Help?

So I spend a lot of today shopping through rockauto.com. Great site, easy to navigate, good prices, they carry reputable brands ie Moog. Then press the checkout button and calculate shipping, now double that by the time it gets across the border. Is there a good Canadian based site that people use for basic items like brakes, tie rod ends etc. I've always just went to NAPA in the past, but I question the quality of their products (not that I've had a problem), and it's also way easier to shop online. Any suggestions.

Saw this post after I PM'd you, NissanMan himself. How the build coming, any updates?