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Everything posted by andreus009

  1. I haven't had the heat issue with the original exhaust, but I just installed PaceSetter headers so I will be paying attention for this. Now onto the quality of the PaceSetters (which is what 4x4parts.com supplies). I had several fitment issues with them. 1) Had to cut the forward corner of the driver's side flange to get it past the AC compressor bracket. 2) Once bolted to the engine the ends where spaced too far apart to just simply slip on the crossover pipe. I ended up using a racheting hold down strap to pull the two ends together. 3) Even after i got the crossover pipe to go on, the flange to connect the rest of the exhaust was too far to the rear to get the rest of the exhaust in. Remedied this by cutting a 1/2" inch off both the passenger side header end, and the passenger side of the crossover pipe. This allowed the crossover pipe further forward. (I might not have had to cut the ends if the angles of the crossover pipe had been better, but as it was the crossover pipe bound up before it could bottom on the header end) Even with the cutting mod, i had to use some longer bolts in some places (to be able to pull exhaust pieces together), and relocate the muffler support that connects to the driver side frame rail. Relocation of the support was done by drilling a couple new holes in the support which allowed it to go to the rear ~1/2". Oh yeah, one more thing....the flange on the crossover pipe for connect the rest of the exhaust was angled upward which tried to push everything up against the body. I ended up assembling everything loosely at first, and tightened from the rear of the vehicle up to the crossover flange. The weight of the exhaust and the support from the brackets helped pull the flange down (header end) and kept it from touching the body. Additional information: My headers came with two ports on center exhaust pipe on the drivers side. The smaller one fit the EGR pipe and the larger one needed a plug. The plug thread size was 24mm x 1.5 . The thread size for the smaller one was 22mm x 1.5 (in case of EGR elimination). Order plugs from http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/. The EGR tube didn't fit directly, but with a little heat from a propane torch and some bending I got to line up correctly. IMO, if i had to do it again I would go with Thorleys to hopefully avoid these fitment issues. People who have installed Thorleys can chime in here.
  2. I would think it would not be too bad. Mine's a 95 and I don't think it ever had the resonantor. Anyhow, mine only got annoyingly loud after taking the catalytic converters out of the system. (We can get away with that in Florida because no emissions and no vehicle inspections)
  3. Hmm....In theory it is easy. In reality it can be another story. I had my exhaust out because I was upgrading to headers, in fact that is the reason I had to do the oil filter relocation. Doing it with the stock exhaust installed, probably a Royal PITA. My Major challenges: Port Orientation - The oil filter relocation kits are multi-make/model fit so they come with 3 or 4 thread inserts that adapt the thread of the adapter to the thread of your oil filter threaded tube on the engine. The ports on my adapter were offset from center, so depending on how far I threaded the thread insert into the adapter controlled where the ports were located (left, right, top, bottom or somewhere in between) when the seal final touched the block. I wanted my ports at 6 o'clock because this was the farthest from the headers. The problem was that there was no locking mechanism (like a set screw) to keep the thread insert from rotating (i.e, threading deeper into the adapter) while threading the adapter onto the engine. I finally ended up prick punching the threads to keep the thread insert from turning in the adapter itself. Of course, I didn't get it right the first time, nor the second, nor the third. I think it took like at least 4 or 5 tries. Of course now that I had pricked punched the threads, it wasn't possible to rotate the thread insert by hand. In order rotate the thread insert, I used a sharp chisel and hammer to catch the top edge of the thread insert and drive in the direction I wanted to go. After I had rotated the thread insert where I thought I wanted it to be, I would prick punch the threads again. (The idea is to make your prick punch as light/weak as possible to be able to rotate it again if you need to, but still enough that thread insert doesn't turn while threading onto the engine.) Once I got things oriented properly I made the prick punch more solid/deeper. Also, I ground smooth with a dremel the location where I was engaging the chisel to rotate it. Tubing/Hose - The kit I got didn't come with the hoses, but it did come with barbed fittings. I didn't like the idea that the life blood of my engine was in the hands of barbed fittings and hose clamps. (I know other people have done it without any issue, but a racing friend of mine had some bad experience with that kind of arrangement) I chose to go the bullet proof route. I had custom hydraulic lines made using teflon tubing (500F rating) with stainless steel braided cover. I tried to estimate the hose length I would need using the barbed fittings and a couple of pieces of 1/2" heater hose. Seemed good in theory. I took what I thought was my correct length hoses to the Hydraulic hose place, talked it over with the guy for a bit, and then was ready to make the lines. However, they were out of the tubing I wanted which turned out to be a blessing. Since I had time I bought a couple of the fittings I thought I would need, and installed them on the engine block adapter, and the oil filter holder and tested (for length) my heater hose I had cut. Boy was I way way off. I had probably 6" too much hose. Moral of the story: If you are going to do a custom line with fittings, buy the fittings first, install them on your hardware, and THEN use a dummy hose for measuring the correct length. Also, you may want to buy a couple different angles for the end fittings (to find the combination of ones that are the best fit), and for ease of install (especially if it is a stiff hose) swivels on both ends. Knowing what I know now I could probably do it in half or 1/3 of the time. Hope I didn't rattle on too much.
  4. Got my oil filter relocation done, so I thought I throw up some pictures. The kit I used was the Hayden 291 which is available from Summit Racing. I picked this one over the other versions because it had side ports which is what I thought I was going to use. However, it turned out I ended up using the ports on top instead. I had the lines custom made by Amazon Hose and Rubber which is local to Orlando, Tampa, & Chicago. They are Teflon tubing with a stainless braided cover. Expensive, but no worries about heat. If anyone wants more details, post a reply and I can write up the steps/details I went through.
  5. That is a wonderful sight to behold! Congrats to all for a job well done. Go NPORA members!
  6. I'm in the process of installing my pacesetter headers and have discovered the need for the oil filter relocation kit. I've read this topic pretty thoroughly but don't see any description or pictures of how to route the lines safely around the headers. Would greatly appreciate any pics.
  7. Second the grade 8 bolts on the warn hubs. I broke the studs on install at the torque level warn specified. BTW, I used stainless since others rust and dont look so good.
  8. Where did the new t-stat come from? If not OEM, I'd consider replacing it with OEM.
  9. Looks familiar. I think I've done that one too, but my split wasn't as big so I was still spraying water when I had temperature issues.
  10. I'll just throw this out. After hubs are locked I've shifted back and forth from 2H to 4H on the interstate at 70+ mph. If you are going straight, and no odd wheel size there should be no reason that this can't be done. The key is that everything is turning at the same speed. Oh yeah, usually do the shifts at constant speed/throttle. No need to be applying extra torque while sliding gears around. Leaving the hubs locked when in 2H causes a binding in the front end when making turns. The sharper the turn(i.e., pulling into a parking space) the more the binding. Definitely doesn't feel good, so if I've been running 4H on the road I stop and unlock before trying to make an tight corners.
  11. Well, if they won't make one for me, I will probably try to make one myself. The bore is not a straight through though. It's more like a 1/4" deep thread. The one my friend installed on his Frontier was about 1/2" thick with about 4 threads. Any decent machine shop should be able to make one for not too much. The theory seems good about improving atomization of the fuel, but I must admit I am semi-skeptical about how good the "vortex" would be all the way to the cylinders. Also, i could see where this arrangement could actually have adverse effects at the higher flow rates of higher rpms. For $100 I was willing to give it a shot, and send it back if it didn't seem to improve things. The ultimate proof would be in dyno testing, but the butt dyno doesn't work all that bad if you know your rig. Thanks for all the feedback. This forum is great
  12. I have a friend with a 2004 Nissan Frontier. He just installed a throttle body spacer on his intake, and said he noticed an improvement in torque between 2000-3000 rpm. The spacer is made by Airaid (www.airaid.com), and costs about $100. Well, they don't make one for the 1990-1995 Pathfinders, but I figure if they get multiple requests by us enthusiasts they'll come up with one. So if you are interested and want them to produce this product for us 90-95er's email them at airaidinfo@airaid.com and show your interest in this product. Thanks.
  13. Don't forget the long extensions and a universal joint to get to the top bolts of the transmission. I've done this job twice so far. I always say I'm not going to do it again, but that I look at the shop cost and there I am under it again.
  14. As a rule I usually come to a stop to put it into 4WD (HI) the first time (hubs not locked), but once the hubs are locked n you are rolling in straight line on a solid surface it can be shift in and out of 4WD (HI). The key is that all wheels need to be turning at the same speed. I do this all the time, not a single jerk or odd noise.
  15. I thought I'd chime in since I have a similar issue with my AC running warm at idle, and the temp gauge creeping past the 1/2 way point. I do regular coolant flushes, and the inside the radiator looks good so I'm fairly certain that these are not an issue. Thermostat was changed recently as well. Also, I've cleaned both the condensor and radiator cooling fins with only marginal improvement. As Precise says the fan is the only thing causing air flow across the condensor when sitting still, which leads me to believe that I may have an issue with my fan clutch. I'm mentioning this because you may want to check this on yours as well. I plan on replacing mine this weekend (~$100 new), and will add a new post to let you know the results. If it doesn't work it will be time to see a proffesional ($$$$) P.S. You should change your coolant at least once a year. I've been told that if you don't the chemical of the antifreeze break down, and will begin to attack the aluminum heads. Haven't experienced it myself, but the cost of coolant vs cost of heads is enough to motivate me to do it regularly. Also, I wouldn't recommend running just pure water (even distilled) because you won't have any corrosion protection.
  16. Yep, free is the way to go. http://www.Nissan-techinfo.com/Nissan/refg...hfinder/FWD.pdf If you change the year in the link you'll get the on you want. I thank whoever put the original post out there with this info. I've been gland to have it.
  17. Hey, I had the same problem. I got the light to go off by pulling a fuse that's under the hood and on top of the passenger side fender wheel. When I did this the lights seemed to work normal, but after a while one headlight didn't work so I put the fuse back in. Low and behold the lights were working normal again. It's being doing this same thing off and on for the past 3 or so years. Unforturnately, I haven't been able to isolate why. Maybe an itermittently faulty ground or something.
  18. Getting the pilot bushing out............... There is a special tool that you may be able to get to pull it out, but I haven't yet found one. The first time I did it I used bolt with a thin head that would hang the edge of it at the back side (towards the engine front). The thread of the bolt went through a socket big enough to pull the bushing into and stick through the drive part of the socket. With the thread through the socket put on a washer and nut. Turn the nut while keeping the bolt from spinning and the bolt head hung on the edge on the pilot bushing. With luck you can pull it out. Now for the easy method. Find a piece of rod with as close as a diameter to the inside diameter of the pilot bushing and about twice as long as the pilot bushing. (I used a 5/8" clevis pin with one wrap of black electrical tape) Fill the area inside the pilot bushing about 3/4 full of grease and insert the rod. Now hammer on the end of the rod sticking out, and it should drive the pilot bushing out. The key is to make the diameter of the rod as close (i.e. the use of electrical tape to slightly increase the diameter of my pin) to the inside diameter of the pilot bushing that way the grease applies all the force to the bushing instead of trying to squirt out. Trust me it works. Just did it about a week ago.
  19. I had part of my catalyic converter material break loose on the inside. This could be the case or part of the muffler rusted loose. If everything is tight on the outside then I'd consider looking inside. Even if it's not there you're likely to find the loose part while taking things out. Don't forget to use a penetrant on the bolts before you start just in case their stuck.
  20. I ended up taking it down all the way across. It's been a few years, but I don't recall it being too difficult. You'll probably have to loosen some of the side trim to get it out. I put the light right back, and it only rattles once in a while.
  21. Hmm. I researched the wideband O2 sensor. Sounds neat, but a little pricey for my tastes. After all I'm not driving a race car. I think though I will test my O2 sensor to see if it is functioning properly. There are some small performance things that make me think there may be an issue with it. What is the life expectancy of a OEM O2 sensor? Any recommended aftermarket 02 sensors?
  22. Thanks for all the input. I like the idea of pulling the heads as an altenative to pulling the engine if it has to get that serious. :bow:
  23. I'm not sure I understand your problem. The fan will blow air at any rpm. The clutch allows slippage so that at high rpm the fan doesn't turn at the same speed as the motor. The fan is very ineffcient at high rpms, and typically when you are turning those kinds of rpms you are cruising down the road with plenty of airflow. With the engine off you can talk hold of the fan and rock it back forth moderatley. You should feel a consistent resistance to rotation in both directions. If you tried to spin it like a spinner on a board game it would stop very very quickly. I'm not sure your squeek is related to what you think is your fan clutch problem. How old is the water pump? Also, do you have an idler pulley for the A/C? Hope this helps some. A
  24. I'm with Precise on this one. I have a 5spd that I put a new clutch on, but the balance was not the same as the original. You can feel it as you rev up, especially at around 3000 rpm. It's not much but's definitely not as good as the factory original.. My point being that I imagine a automatic would be more sensitive to this sort of unbalance, and it would unpleasant to have a new vibration after going through all that work. A static might work okay, but it'd be more effective if you could find someplace to spin balance (like a tire) it for you. The problem with the the static is that there is a friction factor involved that may vary depending on how you suspend it. The spin balance eliminates this, and as long the operator assembles it correctly they should be able to pin point the balancing.
  25. I've seen numerous posts on replacing the exhaust manifold studs, but haven't seen much about how to deal with the one's that have broken off and with nothing sticking out. Is this an engine out operation only? Currently I only have one broken one. The top one at the rear of the engine on the passenger side. Personally, I'm consider make a precision incision in the fender well with a sawzall, and see if can't drill it for an easy out with bit extension. Anyone else have any ideas?

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