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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/29/2022 in all areas

  1. Pretty much the same for me. Got the "lesser" manual for a better working-level reference source. Put the new tires and wheels on 2 days ago. I'll mess with the carb and other stuff as temps eventually cool down. Really impressed with the V6.
    1 point
  2. I've been running Efans for a few months now and have learned quite a lot. I am running Dual 10" fans from amazon part# RAF-10-RD+FMK-X2 just wired to a switched ignition signal. I did run the Hayden fan controller but that died after 2 months. part# 3651. I made my own fan shroud out of 1x1 aluminum angle and some checkerplate i had lying around. With just the fans and shroud with no special ducting (this matters) around the sides to force the air through the rad. My rad temps in the B.C summers were around the 200F mark on the highway cruising 100km/hr through mountains, while around town it would sit around the 190F mark. Now with the ducting (Foam tape, door scrape seal is what I used) it likes to jump between 186-188 cruising, and highway/hills it likes to sit at 194F, sometimes 200 if its real hot or I'm pushing it. I have noticed an increased performance of the AC, but with out the ducting the temp gauge will rise and the AC will start to go warm. (not sure what temp, but about 3/4) unless you start crawling. Adding the seal makes a difference for sure. Gas milage is hard to say though, but sometimes ill get 450+ KM out of a tank, just town driving with hills. I don't do much highway driving, and havnt had the chance to test the difference. Though I'm confident it will be better. Performance :). Having the Manual trans lets me feel a lot more than the autos IMO. The response is great, the low end power isnt changed much, but the higher end RPMs feel less held back and I use less throttle to hold 60km/hr. (Before around 7-10%, now 4-6% according to bluedriver) Usually I would never pass, as in the mountains it just feels way to under powered to do anything with out feeling like youre pushing it too hard. Now dropping into 3rd and hammering down feels way more impresive, and merging makes me a little more confident. I do how ever have a PCV delete, which really only made my 2000K and lower RPM more responsive. it would either idle or sit at 2k before. I myself am quite happy with these result as I get a boat loads of room to work in the engine bay, and changing a belt takes no more than 5 minutes.
    1 point
  3. Since this is a giveaway and not a sale - I figured it was ok to post here and would get more eyes I have a dark green 2001 Nissan Pathfinder SE, manual transmission, 3.5 VQ engine (obviously), 4 wheel drive, 265k miles, 2 inch Automotive Customizers suspension lift, less than 1,000 miles on tires from 2019 so hopefully still good but they could have flat spots by now, K&N "cold air induction kit". Engine knocks bad. Pretty sure it needs valve chain tensioner replacement. It was overheating as I limped it home. If I were doing it I'd just get a junkyard engine. Body is in good shape but the paint is tired on the roof and hood. There's a random assortment of parts to go with, nothing notable as far as value. It will run long enough to pull onto a flatbed car trailer if that's what you have. But it is not "driveable" for any distance. You must be able to pick it up on your own with a trailer in South Dallas Texas area. My wife will probably only tolerate it remaining at our house about 2 more weeks before she calls our local car donation/auction place to come tow it away. So if you are interested and can pick it up relatively quickly, let me know. Thanks.
    0 points
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