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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/14/2022 in all areas

  1. I wouldn't recommend doing them yourself without a hydraulic press. I've done a few now and they all required a press. The different snap rings are used to center the u joint but mine always took the same size that was on there (usually the skinniest). Spicer u joints should include the 3 different size rings. Spicer is the only brand I'll use for u joints. On my rear drive shaft I used machinist calipers to center the u joints and it worked great with no vibrations (till I snapped my upper control arms and the yokes got bent ?). I have a lokka and manual hubs in front so didn't really worry about centering the u joints in front since the hubs are never locked over 25mph. It's pretty straight forward but getting them centered and not messing anything up makes it tedious and a bit of a pain in the ass. If you're not comfortable doing it yourself I would take it to a specialist driveline shop, the average mechanic will not have done many (if any) of these.
    2 points
  2. By driveline I mean driveshaft. If the shop has the equipment to balance driveshafts they should have no problem with it. It's been a couple years since I did the front, they may not have come with multiple snap rings, I might be getting it confused with the rear. I've never needed a different size though and I doubt you will either. A driveshaft shop would be able to figure it out either way
    1 point
  3. Pretty sure I'm running the 53218X from rockauto in front. The yokes are steel ?
    1 point
  4. I have no idea. Until I saw that in the manual, I didn't even know U joints were adjustable. Looks like some heavy duty Dana/Spicer joints require shimming, so maybe this isn't as weird as I think it is. Something to ask the shop doing the job. But, yeah, I had the same thought, that not setting these up right might be behind some of the stubborn vibration issues I've seen on here.
    1 point
  5. Got curious and checked the manual again. Looks like the snap rings for the U joints are also shims, and you select different snap rings to get the axial play into spec. The manual has part numbers for various thicknesses. No idea how you'd know what to order before getting into it. I don't know if anyone actually bothers with this, but I would at least check the play before putting it back in. PD section of the FSM.
    1 point
  6. I don't know driveshafts well enough to judge how much slop is too much, and I don't see a spec in the manual (though it does spec total runout at 0.6mm). The only truly bad one I've seen was in our '63 Scout, and that thing was so whupped it was sagging in the middle. I wouldn't expect an IFS truck to put enough stress on the slip joint to wear it out. If you can't make it go clunk wiggling it by hand, I would call it good enough--but, again, I'm not a driveshaft guy. I have heard of driveshaft weights coming off, though not on one of these that I can remember. I would expect to see an obvious bare spot and busted welds where the weight used to be if this had happened. The diff bushing symptoms don't match yours from what I remember. Just something to check while you're in the neighborhood.
    1 point

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