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What's good NPORA friends? Aside from A LOT else that happened last year, I was in a fender bender (not my fault) which resulted in my Pathfinder being deemed a "Salvage" vehicle status. All headaches aside, the DMV requires a Brake & Lamp CERTIFIED ($$$) INSPECTION ($$$). According to the certified shop this means NO cracks (even hairline and airtight) in the light lenses and all lights functional as should be. ANY CRACK in a lense will fail the inspection. All my lights function and the bulbs are the correct original colors yet I have purchased all new lenses now because they all had fine cracking after almost 30 years on the roads. So that takes care of the Lamp Part, then ....there is the Brake inspection. No, it's not just do the brakes work, function, and stop the vehicle but the tolerances MUST be within specifications of the pads and rotors. My model pathfinder has front and rear disk and rotor brakes. I figure Okay, let's get ALL the brakes in order to make the best of the needed work. I'll get new rotors and pads front and back since I haven't done any brake work/maintenance since I bought the Nissan & they are in need of the work ...and I can hear GRINDING now. My local shop said the FRONT ROTORS on my Nissan ARE VERY DIFFICULT and require about $350 in labor!? Apparently this has to do with the 4X4 front end? What's the deal, how hard is the Front ROTOR and pad replacing? How hard are the rear Rotors and pads replacing? How difficult is proper bleeding of all four corners? I'm one guy in my small driveway and the HOA (home owners association) doesn't allow much time for vehicle work in the driveway... Should I do the rears myself because they are actually rather SIMPLE and ask the shop to do the fronts. The shop is saying the front brakes (pads and rotors and labor) is $400 and the rear is $250 more (parts and labor total job $650). Or should I do the job myself? What are your seasoned opinions, advice? Thanks again for any help. Aaron https://imgur.com/gallery/xofME4v<blockquote class="imgur-embed-pub" lang="en" data-id="a/xofME4v" ><a href="//imgur.com/a/xofME4v">Pre Brake &amp; Lamp Inspection WD21 Nissan</a></blockquote><script async src="//s.imgur.com/min/embed.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

They're not hard, you'll need a G clamp or some large multigrips to push the pistons back in the calipers. Definitely repack your bearings and do your hub seals while you're in there. A good mechanic with a shop and hoist could do the whole shebang in a couple of hours. Download a FSM and find a mate that will give you the use of their driveway for an afternoon. Also, if your mechanic finds this task "very difficult", I'd be looking for another mechanic that knows what on earth they are doing.

Thanks, really, I truly appreciate you guys speaking up. Really easy to scroll on by and not care to take the time to help. THANK YOU!!

Update, the work is done )a couple months ago now) . Found a reliable and reasonable local shop who did the whole job (timing belt and seals, new radiator & hoses, thermostat, water pump, belts, bypass hose, filled coolant, and replaced the brake master cylinder with a new one) for $560 in labor. I supplied the parts and found two shops that won't use parts they don't provide. So, they had the pathfinder a few days total and did a great job all told. Thanks to all the friendly help adamzan, Sassafrasparilla, Slartibartfast ! https://imgur.com/gallery/XjrW3Y3<blockquote class="imgur-embed-pub" lang="en" data-id="a/XjrW3Y3" ><a href="//imgur.com/a/XjrW3Y3">1992 Nissan Pathfinder SE Repairs</a></blockquote><script async src="//s.imgur.com/min/embed.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

That is typically called "morning sickness." I swapped my valve body with a $50.00 junk yard one and it bought me a year or so until I got a rebuilt transmission.

Update : 5- #||0|0|0|0|))) ———- 221 ft.ibs (19:57) 6- #||0|0|0|0|))) ———- 177 ft.ibs (19:43) 7- #||0|0|0|0|))) ———- 221 ft.ins (19:55) I’ve noticed something weird.. if you compare # 4 & # 5 u will see that the stack hight is almost the same and the numbers of Clutches and springs are also the same but when u move the two FB from springs side to gear side then it will add big amount of torque.. why ? I dont know.. i have test that on the same pack to be sure.. thats what i have for now.. i will try some more configuration and see if i can reach to 250 ft.ibs .. i still have to wait for the order of digital torque wrench adapter so that i can read more than 221 ft.ibs

Hey Aaron, I have a 91 in the driveway that will either be parted out or EV'd, so I'll look at that switch for you this weekend. B

If you haven't found the hose yet, rock auto sells it as straight sections, and they give the diameter too. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1995,pathfinder,3.0l+v6,1211993,cooling+system,radiator+lower+hose,2057

It is a big job, but for $850 USD plus parts, it's something to consider. You'll need a few uncommon tools that you may be able to rent or borrow. This is my first timing belt, so it's taking me a while, but it's pretty simple once you understand it. You could probably do it in a parking lot somewhere if you have all the tools/supplies/info and another vehicle to go buy the weird things you weren't expecting to need! Just take lots of pics and label stuff so you remember how to reinstall it. We're all here to walk you through it, if need be! ? Best of luck!