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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/15/2020 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Replaced the round flood lights behind the grille with some blue ‘Raptor lights’. Lights are LED lights designed for boats. Built a bracket from plastic angle wall “corner covers” used to protect your sheet rock. Funny I had multiple immediate reactions to them at the one store I stopped by really quick this afternoon. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. 2 points
    Spin an egg on the table, now stop it very briefly and let go... it will try to start spinning again because you stopped the shell but not the fluid inside. Moving parts next to other moving parts will translate some fluid friction. If its a clutch type engagement the moving parts are really close to each other so lots of fluid friction is translated over. This is actually how torque converters and viscous differentials work but the fluid energy transfer is maximized even more by way of specially shaped turbines. I've run out of time to go in depth, but in a nutshell I prefer manually shifted 4x4 for off roading vehicles and true AWD systems for street vehicles that may encounter adverse conditions. (r50/qx4 auto mode is not true AWD...)
  3. 2 points
    When the 4 speed in my 93 died, the first gear to go was reverse. In my case, no warning and it was complete. It worked one morning on the way to work, then at lunch, reverse was simply not there anymore. In my case, it acted like it was in neutral. Over the next few weeks, 1st, 2nd, and 4th disappeared leaving me with just 3rd. The transmission shop was impressed that my truck made it in under its own power.
  4. 2 points
    finished and installed rocksliders with a friends made in metal recovered from work
  5. 1 point
    Nistune Nistune is now supporting 90-95 v6 pathfinders (and pickups). The owner of a 1995 reached out to me with the good news! He's running a VG33 and his 1995 Nistune'd ECU has been tuned to run the vg33er (supercharged xterra/frontier) MAF and injectors. I immediately bugged Matt (from down under) at Nistune and he said yes my 1993 is now supported (90-95). I ordered my board from Past Power Innovations (previously ASCO) and I should begin install this week. Disclaimer DIY ECU socketing is NOT recommended for the average hobbyist, mistakes can set you back hundreds of dollars and weeks in international shipping. Typical installers might charge $80-$100 on top of the board itself ($240) which is cheap insurance if you have any doubts about your own skills or equipment. Still wanna DIY? If you've never done anything like this before I suggest you Grab a cheap spare ECU from the junk yard, make sure it works and drives properly with no codes. De-solder the ECU chip, remove it, put it back in and re-solder it. Does it still work and drive properly with no codes? You will either fly or fail and then you can make a more educated decision. Helpful tip: Read the Nistune Soldering Guide and use 63/37 Tin/Lead Rosin Core solder 0.030" if you can get in your country. (USA can) (60/40 Tin/Lead also works very well but avoid the lead-free stuff if you can) What does it do? This is most beneficial to those boosting or making over 200HP. Stock ECU/MAF/injectors will take you to 200HP without modification. The main purpose is to give you complete control over fuel and timing. It will also allow you to make injector size changes and MAF changes. (Like my favorite combo: 344cc injectors and Z32 MAF) Beyond that, there are lots of other parameters that vary by ECU model and what's been "decoded" for that model. Some examples are: -electronic idle speed control -the ability to add timing-based Idle stabilization -rev limits -safety rev limits (neutral/park) -AFR's during warm up
  6. 1 point
    Hi guys, I've had this Pathfinder for a few weeks now and I'm really impressed. I got a pretty good deal on this 97 with 191k miles. It's a base model with 4x4 and a 5 speed manual transmission. I'm the 3rd owner. The 2nd owner got the truck at around 50k miles and has kept a bunch of records since. I found a Nissan FSM in the trunk and the original owners manual in the glove. Inside the owners manual I found receipts for a complete drivetrain rebuild minus the engine. The rebuild was done at a reputable shop in 2010 at 150k miles. Inside the FSM, I found lots of different notes regarding the various things he's done to the truck. Since I've had the truck I changed the timing belt, water pump, cam seals, front main seal, radiator, hoses and all the associated gaskets. I replaced all the gear oils with Redline Synthetic. As for the lift, I threw on AC coils w/ KYB's in the front and Land Rover Defender 9447 springs w/ Bilstein 5100's in the rear. For wheels I went with Pro Comp Rock Crawlers in 15x8 w/ 3.75 BS and Falken Wildpeaks in 32x11.5r15. I even followed the previous owners example and recorded all the maintenance performed in the logbook. Just like at work. I live in SoCal. Because of the recent fires all our surrounding National forests and its roads are closed to the public. I haven't been able to off road locally for weeks! I'm getting tired of driving so far just to do beginner things. If anyone reading this is in the area and has experience with the local trails please let me know. Thanks!
  7. 1 point
    Somewhat on topic- Took the Pathy out for a Joy ride through North GA, riding through the Chattahoochee National Forest. Put in over 200 miles, along with a few miles hiking around too. Crossed several creeks. One got a little interesting as the road afterwards got really muddy and I wasn’t wanting to play like that today, but there wasn’t anywhere to turn the Pathy around, so backed it back through the creek, which just happened to be the deepest one I crossed. As I traveled back through, the truck stalled just as the back end got to the other side, leaving the front of the truck dead in the creek. I thought I may have hydro locked the engine at first, although I knew this couldn’t have been since I took great care to ease back in. Luckily I got it cranked back up and backed the rest of the way out! Decided no more creek crossings for the day! All in all, a great day. The foliage is starting to turn. May be another week or two before it peaks out. Several trees have already shed their leaves for the year though.
  8. 1 point
    Wasn’t really a Fishing outing, rather more of a joy riding day. But did take the opportunity to wet the line briefly at one of my favorite spots as I was passing by and landed a nice little bow! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. 1 point
    I can see how the ATX14A's auto mode would be nice in some settings, like a wet road with ice patches, or handing the keys to someone who isn't experienced at driving in snow. The TX10A can be a little clunky sometimes. That said, the ATX14A uses two hydraulic pumps, a wet clutch pack, an actuator, and a computer to do what the TX10A does with mechanical shifter and a little thought on your behalf. Kinda like the automatic hubs on the WD21. It's a neat idea, and I get why some people like it, but IMO it's more trouble than it's worth. And yes, the ATX14A is not a true center diff. It contains a clutch pack, like what's in an automatic transmission, which the computer engages to send power to the front wheels when it thinks the rears are slipping. I think some AWD crossovers use a similar system, though typically the other way around (front wheel drive until the rear is needed). Clutch packs have a little drag when they're not engaged, I assume mostly due to the fluid being dragged around between them like My1Path said. An automatic transmission in neutral will still spin its output if there's nothing holding it (which is why you have to shift quickly between high and low range with a TX10A, or your auto trans will spin up its output while the transfer's in neutral and prevent you from completing the shift). It makes sense then that the clutched front output of the ATX14A would tend to spin when the rest of the drivetrain spins, even with the hubs and clutch disengaged. I doubt this is hurting anything, unless the clutch is less like an auto trans clutch than I think it is, or unless the computer does something dumb in response to what it thinks is a problem. I don't have confirmation on this, but my theory as to why some trucks code with the auto transfer and manual hubs and some don't is that some trucks get their front wheel speed info from the ABS sensors, and others get it from a sensor on the front transfer case output, depending on whether they've got VDC. If the transfer output is spinning slower than the wheels, or not at all, and that's what the computer is watching to see what the front wheels are doing, it stands to reason it would get a little confused. The only resource I've found for understanding what goes on in the ATX14A is the TF section of the service manual. The pictures don't move, but they're the best view you'll get short of disassembling one.
  10. 1 point
    The ATTESA 4wd system uses a small torque converter with a lockup clutch to split power to the front wheels. Therefore, the maximum torque split to the front is 50%. The rear end is always directly and mechanically driven, so even if you accidentally stick it in AUTO with the front hubs unlocked you won't notice any loss of drive. It may damaged the transfer if you left it in for too long though. When in low range, there is a locking spline inserted that mechanically locks the transfer into a 50:50 torque split. So if you're in low box already, even if all the electrics crap out you're still mechanically centre locked and in low box. Trouble might be disengaging it... Personally I've never had any troubles with the 4-mode system in either my r50 or r51 Pathies. My R50 was the older design with the dial for 2wd auto and lock, and the lever for low box though. The QX4 is mechanically identical.
  11. 1 point
    Thanks! Really appreciate it. I learned all too well the hard way when I lived in FL years ago about the blue lights! Had a show truck and put blue corner lights on it. Got pulled over multiple times! My plan is to really just sport them when parked or off road, although I have seen numerous vehicles here in GA with blue lights of all different kinds, including very blue headlights(not the cool white that look a little blue). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. 1 point
    Finally caught up with@onespiritbrain yesterday and spent the afternoon fishing till dark. Fish must still be deep. One guy at the ramp released a 3-4lb bass. Said it was 30’ deep. Slow going but did manage to get one to the boat! Looking forward to the next outing Spirit! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. 1 point
    Could you tell if the system engaged the front drive shaft? Or was it smart enough to know the speed difference between the front wheels and front drive shaft was too high and did nothing? I think some of the people who reported problems were actually QX4s. I wonder if the system is any different. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  14. 1 point
    Most people would recommend the electronic setup for the AUTO mode that gives you all wheel drive with an open center diff. It’s fantastic for bad weather so that you can still turn without plowing through corners. But the flip side is the truck can get very confused if it’s in any other setup than stock because there’s so many sensors involved in running the TCase. Personally I don’t find that the electronic system is worth it. I’d swap in a manual in a heart beat if it were easy. I don’t trust a system I don’t fully understand and which has so many potential failure points. Same with the transmission, I’d prefer a manual Edit to add: My current plan is to add a rear air locker so that even if my 4WD system stops working on a trail, I’ll be able to use the locker to make the rear more effective and allow me to make it home
  15. 1 point
    Electronic anything is always something else that can break, but it sure seems like a relatively durable system based on the few problem posts on the board. The only time I'd let it sway a purchase decision is if I really wanted to be able to put on manual hubs. Several people have had problems with it throwing errors running manual unlocked hubs. And of course the 4x4 switch wouldn't work without locking manual hubs first, and forgetting to lock before hitting the switch might damage the system. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  16. 1 point
    It sounds like you may have a fuel vent breather issue or the fuel pick up has dislodged. I can attest that these will use 20.1 gallons before they start to sputter. Tested it out last week to be exact, not on purpose. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. 1 point
    Obvious, but have you checked the fluid level with the engine running in park? Reverse is normally the first indication of failure on an automatic transmission, being slow or failing to select reverse is usually a warning sign.
  18. 1 point
    Went to 2N33, Pilot Rock Truck Trail today. It's about a 12 mile stretch along one of the highest ridges in the San Bernardino Forest. It's filled with multiple off shoots from the main trail that offers anywhere from beginner to expert level wheeling. It runs along Silverwood Lake in the beginning and you end up near Lake Arrowhead at the end. Extremely beautiful. I managed to make some friends in a pretty nice F150! Together we went up some of the more challenging off shoots, it was epic! I got some free pinstriping and even got spotted for the first time because I was afraid of rolling. We ended the trip with pizza at Lake Arrowhead Village and a beautiful view of the lake. On the way home we got a surprise, the Rim of the World Highway. Yes, its that high... Google it. 2N33, Pilot Rock Road, a sweet trail... minus the trash. I ended up taking home a bag full.
  19. 1 point
    It would actually be nice to have another vehicle along. All my gearhead friends are still into their track cars, I'm the first one to get into a 4x4. Is there a section in these forums for local meetups?

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