Leaderboard

Hi all. Been browsing for a bit but finally picked up a Pathfinder. 1998 SE, 102k miles, 4x4, stick shift (?). Picked it up from the original owner. Spent its entire life in Colorado and North Carolina, so its in pretty great shape. First thing I'm going to do is repaint the fading black bumpers and other trim. Looking forward to being able to do more outdoors-type of things and have some utility in my life that my GT350 doesn't have.

That quote is probably what I'd expect a shop to charge for those items. Does that make it a good deal? No, probably not, unless you can't do the work. But, they have a business to run and that's their costs. Could you do the job yourself for less? Absolutely! Not sure of any issues getting parts from Rock Auto in CAN, but they've got a good selection and great prices. (Others will complain about RA, but I've had zero issues with things from them). USD wise, you can get every part those shops mentioned for under $200 USD. But if you can turn a wrench, jobs like this are a breeze to diagnose and repair. Like many, I'm skeptical of mechanic assessments, especially when they start suggesting things that have nothing to do with your visit, and it's accompanied by additional services and labor on top. The rest of my skepticism comes from "proof" of a condition or test. For instance, they pressure checked your steering pump; the test requires putting a pressure gauge inline to the hoses. Do you see signs of ATF or clean-up around the steering lines fittings? Did they introduce any leaks by reusing the crush washers on the lines? I mean, are you sure they checked the pressure? Did they give you any pressure numbers? Did they tell you what the pressure specs are for the pump? Without any of that proof, I'd be skeptical the test was even done, and that'd be the last time I visited that shop. What timing convention are they using to determine lifespan on tie rods? Changing outer tie rods takes 20 minutes for both, and unless they took things apart, it's unlikely they could determine if both TREs were ready for replacement. Unless they're rattling loose, or showing physical damage, they probably don't need replacement. A few simple measurements before doing the work also reduces, if not prevents, the need to do an alignment (especially if there wasn't already a need for an alignment). But, sorry for the tangent...let's talk about the issue. Steering squealing can usually be caused by worn belts. Check the belt for excessive fraying or smoothness. Check the tension on the belt between pulleys. If it feels loose, adjust the tensioner (not sure on the VG if this is integrated into the pump or a separate pulley). Replace the belts if it's time. Also check the pulleys for worn faces (where the belt contacts the pulley), but especially check the bearings. I've had a idler bearing on my power steering grenade on me before; it was preceded by squealing that got progressively worse before it gave in. Best way to check things is to pull the belt and rotate the pulleys by hand to feel for any hesitation. But also check for any play (should be none). I've dealt with a lot of squealing on my 98 Frontier in the past, and it's almost always come down to the belt being either loose or worn, with the exploding bearing exception above. The last time I dealt with odd squealing was on a buddy's 02 Pathfinder. The high pressure hose had a tiny leak by the upper hose crimp that was only really noticeable under hard/quick steering wheel motions. Inspect the hose for abnormal flexing as the pressure increases. A new hose resolved that issue.

Had some fun last weekend in the mountains

i found that thread last night and made a list off all the colours and what ever else i need for the conversion. i also used the sylvania light guide thing for everything else exterior because i guess led head light bulbs are not meant for direct replacement because of the reflection tile stuff in the light and im too lazy and broke to buy new casings. when ever i decide i want to do this ill buy all the leds and lights i want and once i finish ill probably post pictures somewhere on the forum for anyone else that wants to do it but doesnt know what it looks like

I replaced my dash and climate control bulbs with these https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-vehicle-replacement-bulbs/74-led-bulb-3-smd-led-miniature-wedge-retrofit-car/228/ Think I went with the warm color. Looks and works great. Big improvement over stock, at least in the gauges. This thread has some good info on the subject https://forums.nicoclub.com/topic563777.html

Finished the axle side 4-link/air shock brackets and started the car end brackets. cut out the frame reinforcement plates too

When the valves and pistons introduced themselves to each other in my original VG30, I swapped in a VG33 from an 01 Xterra. If I had the time and thought about it when I was doing the swap, I would have put the cams and lifters from my 30 into the 33 while I had them both out, for that little bit more. However, the stock 33 works fine for me. I took what I considered the simple approach. I swapped the distributor and upper intake. I then used the Frontier/Xterra alternator, steering pump and a/c brackets. Swapped the pump since my original was leaking and used the alternator out of a Quest/Villager. The brackets would have come with the engine, but it had made a short side trip into a 96 Pathfinder first. With those brackets and matching accessories (all would be right there in an Xterra/Frontier at the salvage yard) the engine was basically a drop-in. I used the injector sub harnesses from both engines to make a single harness to fit the 93 main harness and it was done. Really a simple engine swap that has been totally worth it. Just having the oil filter at the front and not between the exhaust manifold and starter makes the swap worth it to me.

Yes someone has relocated it. Its proper place is under the upper intake plenum but its a huge pain in the arse to get to so folks, myself included, will relocate it to an easier to get to location instead of putting back underneath the plenum. Looks like yours is broken and missing the clip that snaps in to hold the connector on. Id just cable tie it on there..