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Rear Tailgate Lock Question


RedRider3141
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I can't figure out how to lock/ unlock my rear tail gate without using the key. Do I have a bad lock Solenoid or is that the Pathfinder way?

 

The Drivers/ passenger switch lock/ unlock all 4 doors but not the hatch. Same with the wireless Key fob.

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it sounds like a bad solenoid. especially if you can still lock and unlock with the key. but if the key doesnt work then maybe the rod that goes from the solenoid to the lock has broken or come loose. That happened to me once and i couldnt open the back hatch at all. i had to crawl into the car and try to dismantle the back cover and whatnot.

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Ok, Fixed it. It was a little messed up.

 

1) Remove 10mm bolts that hold on hatch handle/ grip. Oh that's weired, one is a 10mm and one is a 11/32...:scratchhead:

2) OK now remove hatch cover without breaking too many plastic clips. 3 broke, not bad.

3) Find motor/ lock actuator.

4) Found it, take voltage readings at pins while locking/ unlocking doors with remote. More weirdness, 0VDC at all of the pins. :scratchhead: How bad is this fix going to be?

5) Smack head and realize you've been checking voltage on the rear window wiper harness. Remember to not troubleshoot in the dark.

6)Ok, found the actuator int he passenger side of the door. (really I did) What?! there is absolutely nothing connecting it to the door lock?!!!?! :headwall:

7)Test lock, 12VDC on one pin when I hit lock and 12VDC on the other pin when I hit lock! Bingo. Wiring appears to be good, motor does not...

8) Remove motor and bench test... No change.

9) Disassemble... It looks like there is a fairly simple mechanism that moves an arm back and forth while sending feedback to the harness as to what position it is in. Mine was so full of yellow grease that it looked like the contacts where all covered up and the sweeping arm/ brass contacts wasn't enough to clear them. No corrosion, maybe some arching but mostly grease. I cleaned the contacts, put it back together and tuh-duh: Working Lock Actuator.

10) But actuator back into hatch and ponder on something to connect the actuator to the door lock mechanism...:wacko:

11) BINGO! A Model Rock Launch Pad Wire/ Guide. A few quick bends and I was in Business! (Can you tell I'm excited)

12) Put everything back together (including replacing the 11/32" bolt with a 10mm one)

13) Enjoy my now functional rear hatch lock (while it lasts)

 

I'm gathering at some point the lock stopped working or the arm linkage fell off and the PO's response (or worse the dealers) was to just remove the link and use the Key to lock/unlock the hatch. Really? Even my '93 Ford had electric tailgate locks. Any ways we'll see how long my fix lasts. At worst I know exactly what to replace if it does go bad.

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