beastpath Posted September 5, 2009 Share Posted September 5, 2009 Many of you will have read the tragic fate of my AT. After blowing the front main seal, and having some unexplained overheating issues (yes I had an aftermarket cooler) it finally blew. Just a typical auto-tragic. To be fair, it was the original tranny and had a long life of 220,000 miles. This at first felt like a disaster, and I was unsure on how to proceed. The shop wanted 2400+ to replace and install another one, but there was no way I was going to pay that. So, after many people on this forum suggested it, in particular Koveman, and a fair bit of research I decided to pursue a manual transmission swap. I found a MT at a junkyard and with the invaluable help of Koveman pulled it on thursday. It took a lot longer than we had planned (the junkyard does not allow jacks), but ultimately we got it out (the best part was cutting through the floor to pull the t-case). So I now have a manual tranny from a 1990 along with matching t-case and various accessories sitting in my garage waiting to be installed! And I paid just about $200 for everything!!! What I have: -1990 Manual Tranny (gear oil came out pretty damn clear when the seal broke) -1990 t-case for manual tranny, 1991 t-case for AT (probably will use the 1991) -Clutch master & metal line to dampner -Clutch dampner &metal line to connector -Clutch slave cylinder -flywheel - teeth are very slightly chewed but should be ok, will be resurfaced -exedy clutch - (what nissan OEM uses) $150 including shipping from www.importrp.com -clutch pedal -MT brake pedal - might just cut my brake pedal in half however -shifter plate -shifter -MT crossmember -hardware -Redline MT90 What I still need: (if anyone has these let me know!) -MT shift knob - leather one preferable -Dark Gray MT shifter boot -Dark Gray MT center console -ASCD (cruse control) switch for clutch pedal -connector, metal line from connector to bracket, hose from bracket to slave cylinder (and accompanying hardware - this is a VG30E specific setup, other engines just had a hose from the connector) -master clutch cylinder cap Had a little time today so got started on a few things. Things done so far: - center console & auto shifter removed - cleaned out master cylinder - clutch plate removed Tomorrow I am going to try to get the clutch pedal in (I'm really hoping I can get it in there without tearing the dash apart), and the master cylinder and dampener attached. If I have the time I'll jack her up and start removing stuff in the way of the tranny/t-case. Plan to have that dropped by monday at the latest. Questions: - Is there anything I can use to clean/prep the transmission & t-case? I dont want to damage it with foreign substances, but I'd like it to be relatively clean on the inside before I drop it in. - Any tips? Oh, and many pictures to come! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jadm4x4 Posted September 5, 2009 Share Posted September 5, 2009 ill be watching this. i have an 87 and now a 91 td (diesel) and was wondering if the change over can be done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerranoNZ Posted September 5, 2009 Share Posted September 5, 2009 Good luck for tomorrow, Removing the pedal box is a PITA and I had to remove the dash to do it. Hope you find an easier way Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 5, 2009 Share Posted September 5, 2009 -exedy clutch - (what nissan OEM uses) $150 including shipping from www.importrp.com Make sure to change everything in the bell housing, ie. throw out bearing, retaining spring, pressure plate, etc and when you pull the fly wheel, take a good look at the rear main seal and consider replacing that. If it leaks, you'll be pulling everything apart again... Feel free to take pictures and do a write up on this... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted September 5, 2009 Author Share Posted September 5, 2009 Make sure to change everything in the bell housing, ie. throw out bearing, retaining spring, pressure plate, etc and when you pull the fly wheel, take a good look at the rear main seal and consider replacing that. If it leaks, you'll be pulling everything apart again... Feel free to take pictures and do a write up on this... B a write up is the plan at the end of the saga yeah, im going to do the rear main for sure as i have a slight leak there. I'm also going to be doing the front and rear tranny and transfercase seals. Change of plan today. I didnt get anything done on my truck at all as I hit up the junkyard for some of those parts I didnt have. Now I have dark gray shift boots, master clutch cylinder cap, a manual trans brake pedal that has two brackets for switches instead of just the one, and the cruise kill switch for the clutch pedal. It poured rain at the yard and I got completely soaked, but it did give me practical experience of what to do when I put the pedals in. I'm pretty sure I've figured out a good way to do it. Only thing major I don't have is the lower part of the clutch hydraulic system. I tried getting it off multiple vehicles, but they were so rusted on there I was stripping heads. Decided I will pay new for these items. I'm still missing a console too! Anyone have one? Dark Gray with switch locations please. I dont need the lid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KovemaN Posted September 5, 2009 Share Posted September 5, 2009 I can't wait for you to post the pictures of the floor of the tranny donor. That was fun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted September 5, 2009 Author Share Posted September 5, 2009 Here you go Tom: This is the alternative way to removing your transfercase from a WD21, and it helped A LOT with dropping the rest of the tranny too (as we were not allowed a jack at the junk yard): Just cut a giant hole in the floor and lift the transfercase out!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sammyb33 Posted September 6, 2009 Share Posted September 6, 2009 they dont allow jacks but allow crazy use of wheels as jack stands huh? as far as this goes, i have done this swap twice, and have not had to pull the entire dash to complete it, just the under-dash... but this was on both 95s, with the curvy dash... as far as the rest of the questions, i just ordered new from nissan on the clutch lines after the dampener. oh and as far as the master and slave cylinders, you should just go ahead and get the rebuild kits for those while you have them out, they are cheap and easy to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 6, 2009 Share Posted September 6, 2009 a write up is the plan at the end of the saga Only thing major I don't have is the lower part of the clutch hydraulic system. I tried getting it off multiple vehicles, but they were so rusted on there I was stripping heads. Decided I will pay new for these items. I'm still missing a console too! Anyone have one? Dark Gray with switch locations please. I dont need the lid. I figured it was, just had to say it... I have the lower hydraulic stuff and can take a picture of my console for you, hopefully tomorrow. I'm in the middle of a timing belt job and a little distracted... Also, anything you need new, check out Alkorahil in the services section, he has the best prices for dealership items that I have seen... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted September 6, 2009 Author Share Posted September 6, 2009 they dont allow jacks but allow crazy use of wheels as jack stands huh? as far as this goes, i have done this swap twice, and have not had to pull the entire dash to complete it, just the under-dash... but this was on both 95s, with the curvy dash... as far as the rest of the questions, i just ordered new from nissan on the clutch lines after the dampener. oh and as far as the master and slave cylinders, you should just go ahead and get the rebuild kits for those while you have them out, they are cheap and easy to do. yeah, crazy welded wheel stands!! am i right in thinking that all of the underside of the curvy dash will come off? it looks like 2 separate pieces when i have seen pictures. It is not so unfortunately on the earlier dashes. My plan is to take the steering wheel/shaft out, then unbolt the brake pedal, disconnect brake pedal from brake booster, slide brake booster into engine compartment so the bolts are not in the cabin any more and then slide the assembly out. for the clutch it will require more twisting, but should work. then the opposite for install of brake pedal. I'll let everyone know how it turns out. lol Yeah, i just ordered the lines from the dampner down, guess I could have saved some money getting them from B, but oh well. The slave cylinder is new, so ill just get the master kit. good idea. I figured it was, just had to say it... I have the lower hydraulic stuff and can take a picture of my console for you, hopefully tomorrow. I'm in the middle of a timing belt job and a little distracted... Also, anything you need new, check out Alkorahil in the services section, he has the best prices for dealership items that I have seen... B is it a console you are willing to part with B? if so that would be great!! yuck timing belt.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 6, 2009 Share Posted September 6, 2009 It is in a truck I'm parting out... I'll post or PM you in the next day or two. The timing belt isn't bad so far, but all I did was tear it down today... No worries!! B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sammyb33 Posted September 6, 2009 Share Posted September 6, 2009 no need to fool with the booster being pulled out, you can leave that where it is, the brake pedal goes in easy. the only problem is the HVAC vent molded hose runs right where the upper bolts need to mount to the support on the firewall, so you just need to finagle around that. get some 3/8s and 1/4 u joint sockets for that job, and a bunch of extensions.... PM me if you need help or have questions! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted September 7, 2009 Author Share Posted September 7, 2009 Oh God, the saga has begun. lol ended up starting everything today, and so far have gotten the pedals in. however, the problems have begun. As soon as I got the brake pedal back in I noticed that the clutch pedal is slightly bent. So the switch activator wont actually contact the switch. so, going to have to go to the junkyard...again...and get one that isnt bent. I mean, if im going to do all this work I want it to look and feel right dammit!! lol havent bolted everything up yet so it wont be too bad to pull it all out again. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted September 8, 2009 Author Share Posted September 8, 2009 some progress today, although not as much as I had hoped. Junkyard was closed as it is a holiday, so have to hit that tomorrow afternoon. The good thing is I have become an expert at getting pedals in and out! so putting it back together should only take about 10 mins, lol. rebuilt my master slave cylinder, but I didn't put any "rubber grease" at the end as I didnt have any. Is this very significant? or should it be ok? I also drained the trans and transfer case, but very little came out of the trans case, probably a quart or two at most. Is there a trick to getting it all out? do I have to unplug the filler to release pressure or something? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magregor Posted September 8, 2009 Share Posted September 8, 2009 rebuilt my master slave cylinder, but I didn't put any "rubber grease" at the end as I didnt have any. Is this very significant? or should it be ok? Could use vaseline... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted September 8, 2009 Author Share Posted September 8, 2009 Could use vaseline... is that a serious suggestion? lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magregor Posted September 8, 2009 Share Posted September 8, 2009 is that a serious suggestion? lol umm...could be Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted September 8, 2009 Share Posted September 8, 2009 did you get my message the other day with my phone # in it? I don't have internet at the new house yet so if you get in a bind it may be better to just give me a quick call rather than waiting for me to check PMs or FB on my phone If you can't find a clutch pedal let me know...I have one...you really don't need the switch on the clutch unless you hook the interlock from the auto trans to the clutch pedal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeV Posted September 8, 2009 Share Posted September 8, 2009 looks like a good time!-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sammyb33 Posted September 8, 2009 Share Posted September 8, 2009 i didnt use any grease in mine either, all i did was lube everything down really good with brake fluid, filled both cylinders with it before i closed them up.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted September 10, 2009 Author Share Posted September 10, 2009 Both pedals are in, and the upper hydraulic lines are in! Wasnt so bad once I knew how to get them in and out, 2nd time round it only took about 10 mins. lol. Just waiting on the lower hydraulic stuff to get here and I can get that on. Clutch kit and Redline MT90 also arrived today. just gotta find the time to drop that tranny.... no need to fool with the booster being pulled out, you can leave that where it is, the brake pedal goes in easy. the only problem is the HVAC vent molded hose runs right where the upper bolts need to mount to the support on the firewall, so you just need to finagle around that. get some 3/8s and 1/4 u joint sockets for that job, and a bunch of extensions.... PM me if you need help or have questions! I did end up pulling the brake booster back a bit, not all the way out, just enough for some extra clearance from the bolts. Like you say, its not necessary, but I did feel like it gave me a bit more room to fanangle the pedal bracket. did you get my message the other day with my phone # in it? I don't have internet at the new house yet so if you get in a bind it may be better to just give me a quick call rather than waiting for me to check PMs or FB on my phone If you can't find a clutch pedal let me know...I have one...you really don't need the switch on the clutch unless you hook the interlock from the auto trans to the clutch pedal yeah, I got your pm. thanks, if I run into anything I'll definitely give you a call. I stopped by the JY tues and grabbed the other clutch pedal that I had pulled on Sat. lol. shoulda got the damn thing then. will post some pics when I get home from work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KovemaN Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 You need to get some kind of membership to that JY. How many times have you been there in the last month? BTW, I will be making a trip back there soon if you need me to grab anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted September 10, 2009 Author Share Posted September 10, 2009 You need to get some kind of membership to that JY. How many times have you been there in the last month? BTW, I will be making a trip back there soon if you need me to grab anything. lol, no kidding i need a membership! In a month? Hell, within a week I was there 4 times, and went to that other one once the same week too. Nah, I think I've got everything. Including that rear tail-light harness you wanted. And I have the front light bulb pigtail you pulled the other week too. When are you going back anyways? Haha, Any chance you want to help me drop my AT sunday? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 is it a console you are willing to part with B? if so that would be great!!yuck timing belt.... Yeah, the 'yuck' took a bit longer than anticipated... Sorry, I forgot, I'll TRY to remember to take some pictures of the console tomorrow... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted September 10, 2009 Author Share Posted September 10, 2009 Yeah, the 'yuck' took a bit longer than anticipated...Sorry, I forgot, I'll TRY to remember to take some pictures of the console tomorrow... B oh c'mon B! I mean, maybe if you were'nt always posting in the PoHo section you'd get this stuff done faster. lol No worries, not like I need it this second, I haven't even got the auto dropped yet. And I can drive it without the armrest if needs be...just wont be as comfortable. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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