kiwipete Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 (edited) Well I have had to re-install my sway bars because I failed a WOF with them removed. Now, I want to be able to continue with the excellent articulation I get without them so I am thinking of making some disconnecter's for them, saving me the hassle of fitting them back in place every 6 months for the WOF. The rear ones are easily enough modified by cutting the shaft, sleeving it and welding the sleeve to one half, assembling the unit, drilling and pinning it together. The front ones are going to be harder to work out. As you can see by the pictures below there is not much length of the connecting bolt to work with. What suggestions do you guys have for me here please? edit, fixed photos up. Edited August 9, 2009 by kiwipete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerranoNZ Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 Wonder how they'd (The WOF guys) Feel about a thin sway bar. Shave it to within an inch of it's life, so is no longer does it's job Though there isn't much flex in the front. How about cutting the sway bar in the middle then weld a sleeve on one side and a drill hole on the other for a pin? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jadm4x4 Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 How about cutting the sway bar in the middle then weld a sleeve on one side and a drill hole on the other for a pin? wouldnt that make the it hard to get the pin in " if ever needed " with lineing up the hole???????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerranoNZ Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 Don't you guy's have hammers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 How about cutting the sway bar in the middle then weld a sleeve on one side and a drill hole on the other for a pin? Now there's an Iidea that sounds crazy enough to kind of make sence. Yes re-connection may be a bit of a pain but thats why you have someone to bounce on the bumper for allignment issues and as Tex said, a trusty old persuasion device. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BonnerBB Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 For the rear: https://www.4x4parts.com/catalog/product_in...products_id=319 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavefromOZ Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 Heres mine that I had made up for the rear, fronts are next 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 I'm still goeing to copy that idea Dave, I'm just too lazy... You ever get your setup worked out so you didn't have to go underneath to disconect them that you were planning? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 2 things about the front, if your lifted you can use a longer connecting bolt, hell the energy suspension kit does and if you sleve the center for A pin I see no propblems, If you drilled it when was level then it should go back together when its level. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwipete Posted August 9, 2009 Author Share Posted August 9, 2009 Wonder how they'd (The WOF guys) Feel about a thin sway bar. Shave it to within an inch of it's life, so is no longer does it's job Somehow I don't think i'd get away with that either, humph. Though there isn't much flex in the front. I get better flex without the bars all the same. How about cutting the sway bar in the middle then weld a sleeve on one side and a drill hole on the other for a pin? That would have to be one hell of a pin with the loads placed on it, wouldnt it? Better to sleeve it, and place a fake pin in it so it just looks like its pinned, he he he, now there's a thought....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwipete Posted August 9, 2009 Author Share Posted August 9, 2009 Heres mine that I had made up for the rear, fronts are next The only thing that worries me with your set up Dave is the bottom section hanging down. i'td get knocked about a bit wouldnt it, or do you discon both sides and hang the bar up somehow? I thought only one side of the rear needed disconnecting? What plans have you for the front? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 Zip ties? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwipete Posted August 9, 2009 Author Share Posted August 9, 2009 2 things about the front, if your lifted you can use a longer connecting bolt, hell the energy suspension kit doesand if you sleve the center for A pin I see no propblems, If you drilled it when was level then it should go back together when its level. As long as the Bottom A arm section of the bolt and the swaybar part too, does not come into contact with anything as the suspension moves when it is all disconnected? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavefromOZ Posted August 10, 2009 Share Posted August 10, 2009 The only thing that worries me with your set up Dave is the bottom section hanging down. i'td get knocked about a bit wouldnt it, or do you discon both sides and hang the bar up somehow?I thought only one side of the rear needed disconnecting? What plans have you for the front? I'm currently using 2 lengths of 6mm shock cord on either side, this keeps it roughly in stock position without it restricting articulation. Not sure about the front yet, I will pull it out and have a look one day soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavefromOZ Posted August 10, 2009 Share Posted August 10, 2009 I'm still goeing to copy that idea Dave, I'm just too lazy... You ever get your setup worked out so you didn't have to go underneath to disconect them that you were planning? With my lift I can reach through the wheel arch and disconnect/reconnect quite easily, only takes a few seconds each side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerranoNZ Posted August 11, 2009 Share Posted August 11, 2009 Better to sleeve it, and place a fake pin in it so it just looks like its pinned, he he he, now there's a thought....... Yeah that was gonna be my other suggestion BTW if you wanna practice I've got 2 pair of links you can play with Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwipete Posted August 16, 2009 Author Share Posted August 16, 2009 Yeah that was gonna be my other suggestion BTW if you wanna practice I've got 2 pair of links you can play with I might just grab those spare links off you please, it has been suggested that I try to get the certifier to ammend the cert for no front swaybars. At least the rears are easy enough to modify. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dowser Posted November 8, 2011 Share Posted November 8, 2011 Anything ever come around for the fronts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 I think I'm going to attempt this one. I like running anti-roll bars on the road as I'm used to driving a s13 and a z32, i can definitely feel the difference on-road. they suck on the trails though!! I've got the extended energy suspension front sway bar bolts as well so it should make it a little easier to work with. I'll post pics up when I do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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