quick summary of my situation:

I installed a 50mm (2”) lift kit on my Pathfinder, and now I’m running into issues with the CV axles. I’m currently in Australia on a gap year and planning a ~17,000 km trip, partly through very remote areas, so reliability is a big concern.

Right now I see two options:

1. Keep the 2” lift and replace the CV axles, maybe add manual hubs to reduce stress.
2. Switch back to ~1” front struts/springs to ease the CV angles. (still have the struts/springs) 

Main question: is it too risky to keep the 50mm lift for a trip like this?

Anyone been in a similar spot? What worked better for you long-term?

Cheers!
 

quick summary of my situation:

I installed a 50mm (2”) lift kit on my Pathfinder, and now I’m running into issues with the CV axles. I’m currently in Australia on a gap year and planning a ~17,000 km trip, partly through very remote areas, so reliability is a big concern.

Right now I see two options:

1. Keep the 2” lift and replace the CV axles, maybe add manual hubs to reduce stress.
2. Switch back to ~1” front struts/springs to ease the CV angles. (still have the struts/springs) 

Main question: is it too risky to keep the 50mm lift for a trip like this?

Anyone been in a similar spot? What worked better for you long-term?

Cheers!
 

quick summary of my situation:

I installed a 50mm (2”) lift kit on my Pathfinder, and now I’m running into issues with the CV axles. I’m currently in Australia on a gap year and planning a ~17,000 km trip, partly through very remote areas, so reliability is a big concern.

Right now I see two options:

1. Keep the 2” lift and replace the CV axles, maybe add manual hubs to reduce stress.
2. Switch back to ~1” front struts/springs to ease the CV angles. (still have the struts/springs) 

Main question: is it too risky to keep the 50mm lift for a trip like this?

Anyone been in a similar spot? What worked better for you long-term?

Cheers!
 

quick summary of my situation:

I installed a 50mm (2”) lift kit on my Pathfinder, and now I’m running into issues with the CV axles. I’m currently in Australia on a gap year and planning a ~17,000 km trip, partly through very remote areas, so reliability is a big concern.

Right now I see two options:

1. Keep the 2” lift and replace the CV axles, maybe add manual hubs to reduce stress.
2. Switch back to ~1” front struts/springs to ease the CV angles. (still have the struts/springs) 

Main question: is it too risky to keep the 50mm lift for a trip like this?

Anyone been in a similar spot? What worked better for you long-term?

Cheers!
 

This is a current matrix of maintenance and service parts for the R200A and H233B axles/differentials found in R50 Pathfinders and JR50 QX4.  It covers all basic parts like seals and bearings, providing the current Nissan part number, superseded part numbers, quantity used, and a few suitable aftermarket part numbers.  It also indicates which parts are No Longer Available ("NLA") from Nissan; they might still be available from international brokers and suppliers like Amayama.com and Partsouq.com.

This list (particularly the aftermarket part numbers) is not comprehensive, but should be a good starting point; nearly all of the parts listed have a confirmed cross-reference to the OE part, some I've personally used.  RockAuto's part number search DOES search across interchange numbers listed on parts; enter the OE part number without hyphens (i.e., "3818921G17").  There are definitely other parts that will work, especially more-affordable options; compare the specs of a listed part to other parts.

It does not include any differential parts, LSD parts, or parts that would be needed to set up gears like shims and spacers...the majority of those parts are completely unavailable.  The best option if wanting to change gears is to source a complete 3rd member or entire front differential from a donor vehicle, and service it using the parts from this matrix.  Due to the nature of the high-pinion R200A we have, there are NO aftermarket gears available for it.

Again, this is SPECIFICALLY for R50 trucks only.  Other R200A front differentials (like those from W/D21, W/D22) do use some of these parts, but not all.  The H233B data is for 33-spline only.  Again, some parts do interchange, but some do not (mainly the inner seals and outer bearings which are sized smaller for 31-spline shafts).

Keep in mind replacing many of these parts requires access to specialty tools, like pullers and a floor press, to disassemble and/or assemble components.  Most of these parts cannot be bashed off, and some rental tools at your local auto parts store may be insufficient.  A clamshell-style bearing puller like this works great for pulling pinion and carrier bearings.

The matrix likely applies to foreign Terrano and Regulus models, too, but do your homework because you know Nissan did some really dumb things with these trucks.  

JPG version

113201W200

113754W000

I cannot find them anywhere, what aftermarket have you used that will work for me? Any part numbers?

I also cannot use rock auto since I’m in AZ. 
 

Thanks for your help!

I've gathered some decent experience in terms of mechanics after working on my car a bit but I still am quite uneducated in how the suspension is set up. I'm trying to draw up a plan for all the parts necessary for my lift and wanted some feedback so I don't miss anything! I've went through the forums a bit to try and see what others are running but again, not too sure what I'm getting myself into here. All I know is that if I'm going to mess with my suspension, I want to do it right and replace coils/struts/shocks rather than just try to get by with a spacer lift. Spacers after the OME coils settle would be fine though. Hopefully this doesn't set me back a fortune.

My understanding is that the "standard" or a popular suspension set up is as follows: 
Front: Old Man Emu (OME) HD coil springs alongside KYB struts

Rear: Land Rover MD (9447) or HD (9449) alongside 2” Bilstein shocks

What else am I missing here in terms of equipment or modifications to my Pathfinder? Would I have to extend my brake lines, etc.

As for how to obtain the equipment, I'm also a bit lost. I know SFCreations is no longer producing new lift equipment so that's out of the question, but I know 4x4parts.com is another common source for suspension parts.

• I see front coils are available for purchase here: https://www.4x4parts.com/i-18981165-pathfinder-front-lift-coils.html ($180 for a pair, presumably AC brand?) and here: https://www.amazon.com/ARB-2928-Old-Coil-Spring/dp/B004P9JSMI/ ($249, doesn't specify quantity but the image has a pair).
• Not sure where is best for purchasing KYB equipment. Found these two on Amazon, KYB 335015 (left shock?): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C44C44/ ($60) and KYB 335016 (right shock?) : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CODES4/ ($75)
• For rear Land Rover 9447 or 9449 coil springs, I know LRdirect.com has them available (9449: https://www.lrdirect.com/nrc9449-coil-spring-90-rear-lh ($140 per coil) and 9447: https://www.lrdirect.com/nrc9447-coil-spring-90-fr-lh ($150 per coil), but I'm not sure if that is the best website available for US buyers. That LRdirect.com link for both the 9449 and 9447 mentions that the spring is for the "passenger side", I assume that only matters for front suspension applications on an actual Land Rover, and can be ignored for rear applications on a Pathfinder.
• For the 2" Bilstein shocks, I found something on amazon. They sell the 33-185569 5125 model in single-packs: https://www.amazon.com/Bilstein-33185569-5100-Shock-Absorber/dp/B009FU6I6G ($109 per shock), no idea if these are the right ones haha.

If you believe there is a better website or even a better part to use instead, please let me know! I am open to any and all feedback/suggestions. I know there's a lot to digest in this post, so hopefully one of you is willing to sit down and nerd out for me here. Thank you!

my pathfinder has a little black dongle separate to the key that I have to hold next to the ignition for it to unlock the car and let me start the car. Usually you can hear a clicking noise when the immobiliser has been unlocked and all the lights on the dash turn on. Yesterday I went to start my car, but the lights on the dash wouldn’t turn on and couldn’t hear the clicking noise, battery has power but the security light next to the steering wheel is off. Any ideas of what is going on/how to fix it?

Thanks in advance 

This place has been a very helpful source of info so I hope some good Samaritan will give me a hand.

Thanks...!