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  2. There is no temp sensor that goes there. That might just be a blank hole. For the 93 Pathfinder The temp sensors sit on the coolant outlet tube that goes straight to the upper radiator hose.
  3. Today
  4. May have answered my own question. Seems likely it is the temp sensor, I just figured it was elsewhere since I don't remember removing anything from there. I already have a new sensor, so I'll see if it fits and matches up to the harness. Temp gauge wasn't working when I bought the car, so is it possible it was missing to begin with? I find it strange I didn't notice anything missing when removing the harness. Still thrown by the whole thing, so would love confirmation from someone more knowledgeable.
  5. Hey everyone, I'm new to the forum. Currently rebuilding the vg30 out of the 93 pathy I bought last May. While reassembling everything I noticed a threaded hole in the front of my left-side head with nothing in it (see photo) that I somehow didn't notice until now. Looking back at some photos from the teardown, it looks to me like there wasn't anything there in the first place, but I want to make sure. It's possible the machine shop removed something for cleaning and it didn't get reinstalled. Any ideas if anything's supposed to go here? After searching some parts diagrams the closest things in that area seem to be threaded plugs or a coolant temp sensor, neither of which seem right. Let me know if more info or better photos needed. The hole in question is in the center of the photo, above the water pump.
  6. Yesterday
  7. Ok, I'll be patient, slave cylinder and speed bleeder should be here this weekend!
  8. Maybe my idle is just too low?? Its a VG33 and when in gear its about 6-625.
  9. Well, battery voltage and alternator voltage were just fine. Took it to a parts store and they tested the alternator, which said it had failing diodes or something like that. So figured what the hell, 27 year old alternator, sure lets replace it. Just wrapped that up and yay! Same. Damn. Issue. Any other thoughts?
  10. Do not bother with the damper. Put it on the slave and all will work out
  11. Its supposed to only be one bolt per. a pack of 2 is all you need https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000CB2GOU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  12. You know, I bought some of those for the brakes several years ago, never got around to installing them, no telling where they are now. Guess I get to try them on the clutch, thanks for the part number, looks like my local NAPA has 'em in stock! (Would this be beneficial on the damper, too?)
  13. If i decide to use camber bolts, is one bolt per strut enough?
  14. I will make this easy for you and tell you to get a Speed Bleeder for the Slave Cylinder. The NAPA part number to use is 675-1572. This particular bleeder has a check ball that will close with no pressure and open with pressure when cracked open. Make sure you have a a clear hose and a bucket of sorts for fluid collection. Do that and you will be set.
  15. Last week
  16. Camber bolts wouldn't hurt, but also probably unnecessary at that height/setup. I didn't use them until my SFD days.
  17. (got the m/c installed, then attempted to use the mityvac to "bench" bleed it, wasted a lot of fluid doing that, then wasted a lot of fluid trying to reconnect the line that didn't want to thread in easily!) raise your hand if you knew that the master cylinder WASN'T the problem??? (gonna bleed the damper next, while waiting on the just-ordered slave cylinder to arrive)
  18. Makes sense, I agree. Also, I am planning on a 1 inch spacer lift, I don't offroad, primarily just for a little extra height. Is a 1 inch spacer lift a safe option and would I need camber bolts for alignment?
  19. If I'm being honest, I'm brand agnostic for stuff like this. I have enough conspiracy theories in my head that prevents me from believing one part is better than another; and in many cases, they're the identical and made by the same company. My wallet tends to be my decision maker in those cases. If you eventually plan to swap the bushings for poly, though, I'd keep it cheap. But that's because I'm cheap (I also run poly bushings in custom arms).
  20. Thank you. In your opinion, what is a better option between Moog (Rk series) and AcDelco (Professinal series) for these control arms. I will eventually put poly bushings in the old arms, but for now I wil put new links on the truck because I currently do not have the time to replace the bushings.
  21. Echoing the above replies. That "4WD" light is specifically a warning lamp for the system, not an indicator that you are in 4wd. If it stays lit, it means a malfunction is detected. Generally, the system prevents Auto/4H/4L engagement when malfunctions are present, so if you've not personally engaged 4H and 4L to feel the difference in crawl speed, I wouldn't trust the dealer's assessment at all. In essence, there's a diagnostic pattern that can be perform on the truck using the ignition switch, the dial switch, and the transmission shifter to enter a diagnostic mode where the 4wd lamp will blink a pattern that corresponds to one or more fault codes. I highly doubt the dealer will allow you to perform that process, use a diagnostic scanner (a generic OBD scanner will not be able to pull these codes), or otherwise take it to a mechanic or dealership for inspection (at your expense). Truck otherwise looks to be in reasonable shape for age and mileage, but I'd strongly advise walking away if you're unable to pull the code(s), unless the vehicle is potentially acceptable for use in 2WD/RWD. The reason is because this "All Mode" transfer cases uses input from nearly all other modules (ECU, transmission, ABS, for example) in order to operate multiple motors, pumps, and sensors. There are also dozens of potential fault codes, not to mention that multiple fault codes can be present, and not necessarily isolated to the transfer case system itself. Without knowing what codes exist, it's impossible to know the real cost of repair, but it can become substantial quickly (old parts, Nissan-only parts, electronic/electrical parts, difficult to access/remove parts, etc.). If you're set on the platform and want 4wd, you can find Pathfinders with a part-time transfer cases that have a mechanical shift lever; they lack the Auto (AWD) function, but they also lack all the complexity and are significantly simpler and more reliable. Some SEs, all LEs (?), and all Infiniti QX4 with 4wd had the All Mode system.
  22. The newer Moogs will fit all the same, but the bracket/tab used to secure the ABS wire is different. The older trucks used a J-shaped hook that bolted to the arm. The newer style has a forked tab that a rubber boot on the line presses onto. If you take a close look at the pics on RockAuto, you'll see the difference. Nothing some cable ties can't resolve, though. The parking brake cables attach the same on both styles, noting that driver's side uses two tabs to attach the cable, but the passenger side only uses one bracket, but most RH options show both tabs.
  23. My dad had an a '07 Fronty. Good rig. Plenty of get up and go. If it's got the slushbox, make sure it's had the SMOD cooler issue dealt with.
  24. If you're delving into Pathfinder projects, why not explore some offbeat upgrades? Consider retrofitting your rig with a rooftop tent setup for impromptu camping adventures. Embrace the nostalgia with a vintage-inspired interior overhaul, complete with retro-futuristic gadgets and accessories. And for a touch of modern flair, why not swap out traditional headlights for sleek LED light bars? With these unconventional tweaks, your vintage Pathfinder will turn heads both on and off the road.
  25. Congrats! My wife would prefer me to "consolidate" my WD21 and D22 into something newer.
  26. Funny enough even if you bypass the cruise cancel switch (I did it when testing a bad switch) the brake light switch still cancels the cruise. It's a failsafe.
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