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  2. Well, battery voltage and alternator voltage were just fine. Took it to a parts store and they tested the alternator, which said it had failing diodes or something like that. So figured what the hell, 27 year old alternator, sure lets replace it. Just wrapped that up and yay! Same. Damn. Issue. Any other thoughts?
  3. Today
  4. Do not bother with the damper. Put it on the slave and all will work out
  5. Its supposed to only be one bolt per. a pack of 2 is all you need https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000CB2GOU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  6. You know, I bought some of those for the brakes several years ago, never got around to installing them, no telling where they are now. Guess I get to try them on the clutch, thanks for the part number, looks like my local NAPA has 'em in stock! (Would this be beneficial on the damper, too?)
  7. If i decide to use camber bolts, is one bolt per strut enough?
  8. I will make this easy for you and tell you to get a Speed Bleeder for the Slave Cylinder. The NAPA part number to use is 675-1572. This particular bleeder has a check ball that will close with no pressure and open with pressure when cracked open. Make sure you have a a clear hose and a bucket of sorts for fluid collection. Do that and you will be set.
  9. Yesterday
  10. Camber bolts wouldn't hurt, but also probably unnecessary at that height/setup. I didn't use them until my SFD days.
  11. (got the m/c installed, then attempted to use the mityvac to "bench" bleed it, wasted a lot of fluid doing that, then wasted a lot of fluid trying to reconnect the line that didn't want to thread in easily!) raise your hand if you knew that the master cylinder WASN'T the problem??? (gonna bleed the damper next, while waiting on the just-ordered slave cylinder to arrive)
  12. Makes sense, I agree. Also, I am planning on a 1 inch spacer lift, I don't offroad, primarily just for a little extra height. Is a 1 inch spacer lift a safe option and would I need camber bolts for alignment?
  13. If I'm being honest, I'm brand agnostic for stuff like this. I have enough conspiracy theories in my head that prevents me from believing one part is better than another; and in many cases, they're the identical and made by the same company. My wallet tends to be my decision maker in those cases. If you eventually plan to swap the bushings for poly, though, I'd keep it cheap. But that's because I'm cheap (I also run poly bushings in custom arms).
  14. Thank you. In your opinion, what is a better option between Moog (Rk series) and AcDelco (Professinal series) for these control arms. I will eventually put poly bushings in the old arms, but for now I wil put new links on the truck because I currently do not have the time to replace the bushings.
  15. Echoing the above replies. That "4WD" light is specifically a warning lamp for the system, not an indicator that you are in 4wd. If it stays lit, it means a malfunction is detected. Generally, the system prevents Auto/4H/4L engagement when malfunctions are present, so if you've not personally engaged 4H and 4L to feel the difference in crawl speed, I wouldn't trust the dealer's assessment at all. In essence, there's a diagnostic pattern that can be perform on the truck using the ignition switch, the dial switch, and the transmission shifter to enter a diagnostic mode where the 4wd lamp will blink a pattern that corresponds to one or more fault codes. I highly doubt the dealer will allow you to perform that process, use a diagnostic scanner (a generic OBD scanner will not be able to pull these codes), or otherwise take it to a mechanic or dealership for inspection (at your expense). Truck otherwise looks to be in reasonable shape for age and mileage, but I'd strongly advise walking away if you're unable to pull the code(s), unless the vehicle is potentially acceptable for use in 2WD/RWD. The reason is because this "All Mode" transfer cases uses input from nearly all other modules (ECU, transmission, ABS, for example) in order to operate multiple motors, pumps, and sensors. There are also dozens of potential fault codes, not to mention that multiple fault codes can be present, and not necessarily isolated to the transfer case system itself. Without knowing what codes exist, it's impossible to know the real cost of repair, but it can become substantial quickly (old parts, Nissan-only parts, electronic/electrical parts, difficult to access/remove parts, etc.). If you're set on the platform and want 4wd, you can find Pathfinders with a part-time transfer cases that have a mechanical shift lever; they lack the Auto (AWD) function, but they also lack all the complexity and are significantly simpler and more reliable. Some SEs, all LEs (?), and all Infiniti QX4 with 4wd had the All Mode system.
  16. The newer Moogs will fit all the same, but the bracket/tab used to secure the ABS wire is different. The older trucks used a J-shaped hook that bolted to the arm. The newer style has a forked tab that a rubber boot on the line presses onto. If you take a close look at the pics on RockAuto, you'll see the difference. Nothing some cable ties can't resolve, though. The parking brake cables attach the same on both styles, noting that driver's side uses two tabs to attach the cable, but the passenger side only uses one bracket, but most RH options show both tabs.
  17. My dad had an a '07 Fronty. Good rig. Plenty of get up and go. If it's got the slushbox, make sure it's had the SMOD cooler issue dealt with.
  18. If you're delving into Pathfinder projects, why not explore some offbeat upgrades? Consider retrofitting your rig with a rooftop tent setup for impromptu camping adventures. Embrace the nostalgia with a vintage-inspired interior overhaul, complete with retro-futuristic gadgets and accessories. And for a touch of modern flair, why not swap out traditional headlights for sleek LED light bars? With these unconventional tweaks, your vintage Pathfinder will turn heads both on and off the road.
  19. Congrats! My wife would prefer me to "consolidate" my WD21 and D22 into something newer.
  20. Last week
  21. Funny enough even if you bypass the cruise cancel switch (I did it when testing a bad switch) the brake light switch still cancels the cruise. It's a failsafe.
  22. I'd trust a car dealer saying something is "just a glitch" about as far as I'd trust a submarine controlled by a wireless game controller. That truck's got the ATX14A automatic transfer case, which has a bunch of moving parts and is controlled by a computer. There's some troubleshooting in the TF section of the '03 manual, which you can download for free here. Diagnosis without CONSULT (Nissan's super-special dealer scan tool) starts on TF-62. That light is supposed to come on key on/engine off, then turn off once the engine is going. If it stays on, or flickers, it's trying to tell you that something is wrong, and the manual shows how to track down what it's unhappy about. Depending on the fault, it could be an easy fix, or not.
  23. Not exactly. I went ahead and went to a different platform and got myself into a D40 Frontier. That's a 2012 Pro 4X that's fully loaded and a lot more stuff available for it. 93 Pathfinder.
  24. Did you tighten the nuts once the suspension was loaded on the ground?
  25. Looks great, but the lit 4wd light is definitely not a glitch. If you can’t scan the codes yourself then pass on it. It could be a very costly repair if something is wrong.
  26. That stinks for sure, sorry. You've already got your eyes on another one, though, right???
  27. I replaced the trailing arms on my 1997 pathfider 4wd about 2 years and 23k miles ago. For the upper arms I purchased Moog, however, there were no lower moog arms. I went with Dorman instead for the lowers and 2 years later they are already shot. I notcied there are Moogs available for the 2001 Pathfinders 4wd (MOOG RK660905, and RK660905). Would I be able to purchase these moogs and use it on my 97 Pathfinder since the suspension is the same on these vehicles for those given years?
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