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  3. Awesome, saves me a good amount of money. Thanks @hawairish!
  4. SUCCESS, ladies and gents! Long story short, I think hammering on the m/c is what did it... The extended version, I used a conical grinding bit on the rotary tool, to dig enough of a groove to get some blows in with the chisel. (Never got close enough to the threads to make a "seam" there). Was getting frustrated at it still not coming loose, turned my attention back to hammering on the m/c from the inside, peeked my head back around and saw that there was more clearance now at the top stud! Then gave it a yank, and voila! Thanks again for all your help and suggested approaches!
  5. Yesterday
  6. I'm not aware of any size differences, and I'm surprised to not see the parts weren't superseding, but they should fit all the same. The difference is probably the vibration dampeners that are attached to the bar. Only real changes across the entire 96-04 range relating to rear suspension were in regards to shock mounting, and even then 96-99 were the same style.
  7. Hey there yall, im freshly signed up now, but ive frequently used this forum over the past few years this is my 1997 r50 lifted 2 with 33x12.5 tires stuffed underneath her lol, used to be local to washington but now am located by little rock arkansas cant figure out how to adjust my photos properly from one drive yet, other wise i would add a photo thanks for the add here
  8. I'm looking to replace my panhard bar, mine is bent, and I'm finding the panhard bar for the '99-'04 (part 55130-2W100) is generally about $100-200 cheaper than the part more specific to my '97 (part 55130-0W000). Does anybody know if there's a difference in length or something that would keep me from using the '99 bar instead?
  9. Yeah, something is wrong. My '97 (manual) gets 14-15 in the city and used to get 18-19 on highway, but after installing free-wheeling hubs I get around 20 in unlocked mode. (21 on great occasion with the wind behind me).
  10. Sorry for reviving an old thread, but just wanted to say that what is crazy about my 96 Pathy is that if I am driving within the city and not going highway speeds, I get about 100 miles a full tank...yeh, it sux. As for driving the highway, and already did 2 1k mile trips that confirm this, basically from the southern end of the Bay Area of Cali to the northern part of the panhandle of Idaho, I got an average of 300 miles per full tank. Doin the math for this, 21 gal tank at 100 miles gives me about 4.76 miles a gal. And for 300 miles at 21 gal, gives me about 14.29 miles a gal. Crazy thing is...I looked up on Google what the avg MPG is for the 96 Pathy...I think something is wrong with my truck lol. Used 1996 Nissan Pathfinder - Specs & Features Fuel & MPG EPA city/highway MPG 15/19 MPG EPA combined MPG 16 MPG Range in miles (city/hwy) 316.5/400.9 mi. Fuel tank capacity 21.1 gal
  11. Last week
  12. Hello all, I have a 2002 Nissan Pathfinder and unfortunately my idle control valve went bad and blew out my ECM. I would like to purchase a new one and have found quite a few on eBay, but they all have different serial numbers and I am not sure how to determine which to purchase. Has anyone replaced their ECM before that can help me out with this problem? Thanks in advance.
  13. There are also places you can send it out to, to get repaired. There must be one in the Seattle area.
  14. That was getting sketchy in places! Good on you for cutting into it before it got worse.
  15. I finally said screw it, let's fix the rust issue. I've got rock sliders in a box, replacement body panels, and a tire carrier sitting around, but I couldn't see myself attaching these all just mere inches from the crusty metal cancer that's been slowly growing over the last 5 years I've owned it. Upon starting the project I had rust holes in the rocker panels that I wish to protect with rock sliders. Lots of crumbly rust around the rear fender flares and a small rust hole in the uniframe in the rear driver wheel well. There was some surface rust and some flakey bits underneath by the spare tire carrier. So I ordered some slip on quarter panels and rocker panels from Nor/Am body parts. First things first, let's attack structural rust so I began by removing the gas tank, fuel filler assembly, evap system, hitch, spare tire carrier assembly, bumper and part of the upper control arm mounting bracket. Next I began opening the hole in the uniframe. Working my way forward... which is downhill, things got better and cleaner so I stopped. Working my way rearward, things stayed crusty. I ended up opening a large section of the uniframe to look inside. It was rusted internally all the way back. That didn't seem to make much sense because you'd figure that the rust problem would be worse in the lower portion of the frame toward the front. Also the exterior of this uniframe rail was in much better shape than inside. Examining the frame rail, I saw the evap system vents into the frame rail. I know for sure that something has always been funky with the evap system because I could smell fresh gas from time to time from the rear of the vehicle despite never having anything be wet or have codes on the dash. I'm assuming the part called a water separator was fouled causing moisture vapor to vent into the frame rail. Ok, so this is gonna be an ordeal to fix. I decide to hit the brakes on that rail and moved to a cross beam that the tire carrier mounts to. I began cutting out the rust to find a fair amount of rust inside this. I stopped cutting when the crusty rust transitioned to mere surface rust. Next the panhard mount on the chassis had some flakey rust so the 'ol hammer test confirms that it's also toast. After releasing the panhard bar I began cutting the lower portion to see how bad it is inside. I lucked out and found that just the lower portion was crusty. This mounting protrustion is connected to a structural cross beam in which, as you guessed, had some crusties. After cutting this open, I find rust at more or less the far ends of this beam where it joins the main frame rails . I'd rather not lop off the entire panhard mounting point, I so I began removing brake lines and fuel lines to clear a path to where I can cut an access hole at the upper most portion of the mounting point. That's more or less where we ended up this week. It's definitely not an exciting project to write about and there's a million other things I'd rather do right now but I figured I'd sort of roll out some updates on this until we get to the finish line. Every time I regretfully walk into the garage, I gotta remind myself my ultimate plan for the vehicle is to keep it forever and keep it in better shape than I originally bought it. The blessings I have working for me right now is the valve covers have always leaked and oil kept most of the rust away from the front as far as I know. Mid section seems ok too. So what's next? More rust cutting, more bracket removing, and possibly divorcing the axle from the body. The axle has a solid amount of rust scale everywhere that would eventually eat the suspension mounting points so that's gonna need some love too. I plant to get to a point where every structural beam is opened up and all crusty sections are cut out with a die grinder or sawzall. After that, everything is getting either the grinder, flap wheel, bore polisher or sandblasted to bare metal. Inevitably there will be trace amounts of rust that would be addressed with phosphoric acid. Apparently this converts Iron Oxide to Iron Phosphate which halts rust progression and becomes a paintable surface. Next step replacement sections of steel will be welded back in. Any female threads that had bolts snap off will be drilled out and re-tapped. Any male studs that broke off in a nut, will be welded back in. After welding and sanding, I'll figure out what rust inhibiting primer to use and apply that. I plan to apply this internally in the rails with a special spray I have. Most likely would finish off the axle and underside with bed liner of some sort. After that, new plastic clips, new extended brake hoses from Taylor, and rubber hoses. Then we can resume with quarter panels, rocker panels and learning how to paint a vehicle. Until next time, peace!
  16. Okay, Slart, you've given me more options to consider! (I probably should mention that I like buying (cheap) tools!) - I put penetrant (just liquid wrench) on the hoses, nada...may step up to pb blaster, then kroil, and/or use the picks to get some wiggle room, as you suggested. - got the bright idea to maybe try an oscillating tool, with the blade turned 90 degrees...while it does fit in the space, it is a TIGHT fit, not sure it would do much good, even if I had unfettered access - the dremel right angle attachment came, but doesn't fit the chicago electric rotary tool i've been itching to replace, so picked up one from hyper tough and the dremel attachment fits, so will test that tomorrow - since you mentioned BUTANE, i started looking at those micro torches, found one with an adjustable head, should be here tomorrow (also saw the dremel pencil one, too, but that looks more for soldering, think i may possibly need a flame instead of an "iron" type heat transfer) - may use a mirror to see if the studs are the same whether AT/MT, knocking it out from the front could be an option more to come!
  17. As Chris mentioned, it could be the trans cooler hard lines or It could also be the rubber portion of the line which is the best case scenario... Just go to the auto parts store and ask for transmission line hose of the same diameter and you're good to go. It could also be the radiator. The radiator has aluminum barbs for the trans cooler lines that can snap. I've snapped mine off on the trail before. Once you find the point of exit for the fluid and fix it, a simple refill should get you mobile again. I'm guessing 4 quarts should get the thing rolling. May need a 5th quart to get where you need to be on the dipstick. Driver side cooler line is hot fluid exiting the trans. Passenger side is cooler fluid returning to the trans.
  18. Hopefully none of the transmission cooler hard lines were damaged as it doesn't look like Nissan sells them anymore. If you do end up needing replacement lines let me know and I might be able to locate them at one of my local Junkyards. Chris.
  19. I don't know the NZ car market, but if most are automatic because that's what most people wanted, that suggests it's less desirable to the average buyer. But if there aren't many manuals on the market, and you find a buyer who wants a manual, then you've got something special. Along the same lines: my dad's got a purple manual Audi Allroad. It's super rare, because only four people were daft enough to order that combination. It would sell for more than the usual silver/automatic Allroad--but only to one of a very small number of hardcore Audi nerds.
  20. Old hoses tend to be stuck on there pretty good. I put a little silicone spray or WD40 on them and try and twist them, see if I can get a pick under them, stuff like that. Worst case, vacuum hose is cheaper than washer fluid pumps--just cut the line and peel what's left off the pump afterwards. If the hoses aren't super short already, you may have enough slack to just push them back on without replacing anything. IIRC the pumps will piddle fluid once the lines are off, so drain the res first if you haven't already. More heat, more oil, and more beating should shift it eventually. I would reach for a little butane torch rather than the heat gun, get a little more concentrated heat on the problem, with less risk to surrounding components than the plumbing torch. I had a look at how the clutch blanking plate is bolted to mine (slushbox), and it looks like the studs just slide in from the driver's footwell. Replacing the studs would not be my first choice, but if the stud gives up before the corrosion does, or you get sick of fighting with it and decide to drill it out, you may not be entirely screwed--assuming the clutch master bolts on the same way that the blanking plate does.
  21. Hopefully just a plumbing issue. If it was gushing fluid, the issue should be pretty apparent once you get under there. Look for the red drips. The first thing I'd check is your cooler plumbing. One hard line (metal pipe) connects to either side of the trans, and runs forward to the radiator. Check where they connect to the trans, and along their length for obvious damage or rot. In the front, you've got rubber hoses connecting the hard lines to the coolers. There's one oil-to-water cooler in the bottom tank of the radiator and one oil-to-air cooler in front of the radiator, on the vertical brace under the hood latch. It's also possible previous owners have added more or larger aux coolers, so follow the hoses. There's enough stuff around the transmission pan that I'd be surprised if it took a hit, but I would still have a look at it while I was under there. I have heard of transmissions puking fluid through the dipstick tube or breather line if overheated. The "snow drift" part of the story makes me doubt that this is the problem, but I have heard of rigs overheating when the rad is blocked with snow. If it's not obvious where it's coming from, you could put a bunch of cardboard down where you think the leak is, add a quart of ATF, and have someone start the engine for a second while you watch. Even if you don't see it coming out, you'll see where it hits the cardboard. This will make a hell of a mess, which is why I would only do this as a last resort. Don't run the engine with no fluid in the trans. When you refill the trans, don't go to the mark on the stick when it's cold. Add less than you think you need (enough that it grabs gears), warm it up, cycle through the gears, then check the stick and adjust as needed. I set mine cold and ended up overfull, and it's much easier to add a little (get a funnel that fits the dipstick tube!) than it is to drain a little out. Good luck!
  22. I would keep soaking it in oil and giving it a bunch of heat. You would be amazed on how much that'll work when you're applying both quite often for this kind of thing
  23. Update...the M/C is STILL on there, but slowly "chipping away" at it: - heat gun with concentrator nozzle didn't work...addition of kroil didn't work, either - had to remove the washer reservoir* and charcoal canister to make more room for the 12" chisel, still a tight fit *was unable to fully remove the washer reservoir...any tips on disconnecting the hoses? seems nissan wants me to break the nibs on the reservoir - the rotary tool was able to make a SMALL "nick" in the ear...ordered the right angle attachment to see if i can get a better angle, may couple that with the flex shaft - this is annoying...
  24. Hey all, my 97 auto 4x4 got stuck in a heavy snow storm (west of Denver) and I think I broke or disconnected the transmission line. Red fluid all over the snow on the drivers side, it won't go into gear and the O/D light was on. Pushed it back out of the street and wanted to get an idea of what to look at? From a quick read, it looks like the ATF cooler is on the drivers side? From the looks of the snow, there is no fluid left in the truck. I'm not very good with diagnosing problems but if they aren't too major I can usually follow instructions and fix things. Any help appreciated- thanks
  25. That's what I figured. Just wanted to make sure
  26. No there isn't, you'll have to tie into the wiring manually. It only needs 12v and the brake signal, though. so not too hard. The rest goes back to the 7 way plug at the hitch.
  27. So it is already a general standard that when towing over a certain amount(2000 lbs I think) that you should have a trailer brake of some sort on the trailer to assist with stopping. Most of the time trailers will have electric brakes instead of hydraulic surge type brakes(like U-Haul). My question is did Nissan ever put a plug under the dash on the WD21'S to make it easier to install a trailer brake controller if one wishes too? Or was that done much later in the 2000's? I ask simply for the fact someone tried to claim there is a plug for it and I was under the impression that you have to tap into wiring and make a custom harness to make it work.
  28. Hey guys. Been thinking of selling my much loved Pathy , had it for 15 years. Would like to upgrade to a newer model. I have had mixed comments on value, majority of them in New Zealand are automatic. As mine is manual I was wondering if this would make it slightly more desirable or not? If anyone can help that would be great.
  29. Well, the heat gun in "stock" form didn't work. Have since ordered the cone accessories to better concentrate/direct the heat, coupled with the Kroil that also arrived. (Currently using a wood block to keep the heat away from the wiper reservoir area). Have been trying with the ratchet strap, (not using the ratchet feature), just my "brute strength" to yank on it, the m/c will move SLIGHTLY, but really only from the top stud, towards the left front tire, can't get it to move towards the right front tire at all. If the heat won't get it, and dremel contraption is gonna be cumbersome, gonna protect/give some clearance to the stud threads (rubber hose, old credit card, etc) and try and chisel the ear and bend whatever gap I can make. Will try and post pics when I hit pay dirt! (Oh, thanks for chiming in, Slart, you helped me make sense of the EGR solenoid circuit many moons ago!)
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