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Geoff57

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About Geoff57

  • Birthday 01/01/2000

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    2004 /2005 Maroon R50 ST, Lokka front diff, FWH, Bilstein rear shocks, 30mm spring lift, Dual batteries, K&N filter, Nissan alloy bar
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
    45+
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
    ST
  • Year
    2004

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Brisbane Australia
  • Interests
    Crapping on to anyone who will listen.<br /><br />Electrician now working as Technical Adviser in Water Industry

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  2. Hi gang It has been a while since I have posted here. I made up and fitted a brace nearly exactly the same as this around 4 years ago. I used it to mount the rear end of the one piece bash plate I fabricated. It worked well and caused no problems. The only problem with their design is it doesnt look crash safe and will significantly reduce the movement of the engine downwards away from the passenger compartment in a crash. To over come this problem I hole sawed two large holes at either end in the top of the box section. My theory was these top holes become shear points if the engine is pushed downwards but would not significantly reduce structural strength for upward impacts on the bash plate. Geoff
  3. Great news Daniel, These plug sockets really are very inefficient at conducting any sort of decent current load. For such a large plug they only have a very small actual contact area for the current to flow through. This is why they generate so much heat and destroy themselves. When replacing them always pay extra and get good quaility ones that are less likely to overheat. Geoff
  4. May not be your problem, But my 99 R50 had a slight miss at idle. Eventually found the mechanic at the dealer where it got its last warranty service changed the plugs and cross threaded No6. Looking at the marking on it when I pulled it out I doubt the end of the plug was even in the combustion chamber. Retapped the thread (fun job) and replaced the plug and the miss was gone. Geoff
  5. Some sockets have a thermal fuse strip mounted at the back of the positive terminal that melts if the socket over heats. It is generally non repairable but can be bypassed by soldering a piece of wire across it. Geoff
  6. The Highway tyres are 265/70/16 Yokohama HTs on 16"x 8" rims The offroad are 31x10.5x15 BFG ATs on 15" x7" rims They are as big as we can legally go here in OZ for an R50 (well there almost legal). This may change early in 2009 when the new national standards allow a 2" increase in diameter. This change has been a been delayed for years as the states cant agree on what is legal and what is not. Geoff
  7. I have used manual FWHs with the All Mode system for over 5 years now. The only problem I have encountered is very occassionally the 4wd system light may come on when on the highway travelling at over 110km/h (65 mph approx) but not always. It is very random and if I stay below 110km/h it doesnt come on at all. The light is reset by stopping and switching off the engine and back on. With the hubs disengaged Auto and 4Hi can be engaged with out any problem, although it is best to select them when stationary in neutral. Geoff
  8. Yes I recognised your mud puddle splash pic from the PCOA Your avatar is certainly different here ..... and more entertaining Geoff
  9. Set up for highway Set up for no highway
  10. For it not to be tightening up it is either the wrong ball joint and has the incorrect size taper for the knuckle hole. Or the hole in the knuckle has be flogged out (enlarged) from the bolt coming loose at some time. You could try putting a flat washer under the lock nut to let the taper go further into the hole and hopefully hold You will have to make sure there is enough thread left on the bolt for the nylock nut to hold. The flat washer hole must be slightly larger the top the taper on the bolt. How do you hold the bolt to get it torqued down to 175
  11. If you have access to a large bench press it will make the job a whole lot easier. In the FSM the 3 figures showing where to support and where to press the bearing (using a "Suitable tool") when installing is very important A new bearing can be damaged (and fail prematurely) if these cautions are not taken. Also check the axle seal area is OK and doesnt have any deep grooves /scatches Geoff
  12. They just rely on the frictional grip of the taper on the bolt to hold it. The bolt taper and hole must be clean, free of grease/dirt and has to be sitting straight in the hole to begin tightening. You may need to push hard against the joint while tightening to get the taper to start to hold. From your photo you seem too have to much reverse angle on the bolt and it cant sit straight enough in the knuckle hole to allow it to start tightening. You need to sort out what is going on with the UCA mounting. If the all the c shims/spacers are in place then there is a real possiblity that the chassis rail is bent.
  13. You need to get better photos of the UCA mounting point to the chassis ( looking in from the side and from angled ) The main pivot bolt looks suspect (bent) in your first photo The UCA itself dosent look bent, certainly not enough to cause that much lean. The Impact may have caused some/all of the mounting bolts c shims to fall out Check to see how may shims are on the other side. There should be a similar number on this side. Geoff
  14. Couldn't agree more, had them in all 3 of my Mitsubishis. The last thing you are looking at when things get tricky is the inclnometer.
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