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dhardison

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About dhardison

  • Birthday 07/23/1964

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1993 Green SE stock
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
    45+
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Rarely Go Off-Road
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    1993

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Nashville, TN

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  1. Yes it's the auto amp box It's on the right side of the drivers footwell. Mine was obscured by aftermarket stereo wiring and it is closer to 4x4 like you said. I'm not looking forward to replacing this part. Thanks for your help
  2. Can somebody help me with the location of the automatic fan control relay. This is the black box approx 3x3 inches that is used only on WD21 pathfinders that have auto fan speed and temperature control settings. As detailed as my PDF version service manual is about most heat ac service procedures it's just sketchy about the actual location of this part. There's no info about what needs to be removed to replace it. Any help would be appreciated.
  3. Mine did this two times because the fluid was low but I couldn't see any leaks from the calipers or brake lines. About 5,000 miles after the second time I had to add fluid the master cylinder went out completely and I knew where the leak was for sure.
  4. That's what I've been trying to remember. A Car and Driver test of a 93 SE Maxima with an SE only available engine option that they said Nissan should have been using in all trim versions of the Maxima. I couldn't remember what they said the difference between the two engines was, and years later thought they might have put a VQ in the final year or years of that model Maxima. Now it makes sense what they were referring to. I was driving this 92 NA 300 back then so although I read every Nissan car mag article I didn't pay that much attention unless it was something about the Z. Still wish I had kept this instead of trading it for one of the first 95 Maximas that hit the lot back in 95. But I did need more room back then, and the new Max made the CD ten best list that year mostly because of the VQ which also landed it on the Wards 10 best engines list.
  5. Links to websites of hundreds of factory manufacturer brochures from the 20's to current years American cars are here http://www.lov2xlr8.no/broch1.html Foreign cars are here http://www.lov2xlr8.no/broch2.html
  6. That's the problem with keeping old cars and trucks running. Every major thing that goes wrong is going to cost what the truck is worth to fix. You either love your old Path and pay to fix it, or get something newer. I spent almost $1500 to put new tires on my year and a half old Z 2 months ago at 18,000 miles. $1500 every 18,000 miles for a normal wear out item ouch! A $1500 clutch looks cheap. I guess my point is newer is not always better just more expensive to maintain. As a Pathfinder fan I hope you take a leap of faith and fix your truck.
  7. I meant to just strip the top half back off and remove the decals then repaint just the top. It would have worked the way they did it and it wouldn't look bad with just the splash on the lower doors and bed below the crease. I just don't know why they thought it was better to badly tape off and paint over the decals like they did. It probably took as much time to do that as it would have taken to grind them off to the metal.
  8. So I went and looked they were closed of course but I didn't want to deal with any car salesman that's why I looked on Sunday. The Good: This was the most rust free unmolested truck I have seen in a long long time. It's almost unbelievable. Every bolt nut washer seals bushings heat shields muffler converter all the frame are all just like it left the factory and rust free. It looks like a 50k truck under there. No oil leaks at all even the rear main is dry. It's so pure it's still got the factory cassette and speakers. The Bad: The tires are shot. The rear shocks are original and shot. From the rotors it looks like it needs a complete brake job. Both interior door panels are torn. The part I can't get past is what some IDIOT decided to do to fix what looked like peeling clearcoat. I guess their plan was to tape the truck along the v in the body crease and paint the top half of the truck. This would have been okay except they decided to freehand tape the factory splash decals off instead of removing them. Now there is a distinct thick line of paint that's already starting to peel away from the decal. Of course the parts of the decal that are on the lower part of the door from the v crease down are like they are supposed to be on top of the factory paint. It's really a shame this truck deserves to be striped and painted but I'm no painter and it probably cost 2000 for a decent paint job these days. It was a nice cool fall morning for back-road trip in the z and always good to see any old Japanese anything that's not eaten up with rust so it was worth the trip.
  9. I spotted this truck on craigslist and it's about an hour from me taking the back roads. It's 7:45 am on Sunday and I woke up thinking about it first thing. I can't let it go, I've just got to go look in person. A weird optioned XE with v-6, 4x4, chrome bumpers, buckets, console, crank windows! good color, 139,000 miles, what's not to like. We'll the price, but that can be negotiated. If the ac works and the belt service has been done and it's as rust free as it looks in these crappy craigslist pics it's almost worth it. At least it's not a 4 banger bench seat 2 wheel drive which is all i ever see for sale these days. Just posting to let you know I'm still crazy and afflicted with Nissan Datsun sickness that wants me to collect old Nissan cars and trucks. Now where could I get a $4000 unsecured loan? lol http://nashville.craigslist.org/ctd/2021965965.html
  10. Valvoline full synthetic 5w-30w year round. Change every 5000 miles and my truck leaks and or burns about 1/2 a quart in the 5000 miles. Never thought filter brands made a lot of difference as long as it wasn't a real cheapo but I should find one good type and stick with it.
  11. It hasn't really gotten cold enough in my area yet but I remember hearing this on some cold morning starts last winter after my truck sit all night. Not constantly but just 2 or 3 pop pops right as the engine cranks to life on a cold morning. I've just chalked it up to a 206k engine but I think I'll change this sensor out before cold weather sets in. Thanks for the advice.
  12. I want to service my auto locking hubs before the cold weather and snow gets here. The instructions below are from the FSM. It looks pretty easy but any tips or tricks would be appreciated. Also any recommendations on the best grease to use.
  13. I'd start there with a rotate. I was following a 95 I owned for a while back from the shop one day with a friend driving and noticed the right rear wheel was wobbling at low speeds, but the wobble seemed to disappear when you got over 25 mph. Bought a steelie from the junkyard and it seemed to run straight spinning on the balance machine off the truck when they mounted the same tire that was on the old wheel. Few weeks later I had a chance to follow my truck down the road again and the new wheel was wobbling just like the wheel I took off. At that point I got an offer on the truck from a friend of a friend sold it, never looked into the problem any further. If the guy came back and said anything about it I was going to give him a $100 of his money back and tell him that I think the junkyard wheel was bent too just get another one. What I really think was that the axle flange was bent and the axle would have to come out fix it. If I'd have lucky, and I never have this kind of good luck, some of the belts might be busted in the tire. That could explain the wobble under load mounted on the truck, but running true on the spin balancer. I see my old truck and it's new owner every now and then and he's put 60k on it in about 18 months and never said anything to me about it. Just brags about how good it's turned out to be. He did have to pay $400 to get an exhaust leak fixed that turned out to be a broken stud. He said he thought he hit a speed bump too fast, I acted surprised. So I'm really curious to see what you find out and what it takes to fix it since I was dealing with the same issue.
  14. It should be a lot easier now with the newest generation of add on power roofs that open up and slide out and back over the exterior top of the roof vs. the old school style that required you to cut out and modify the headliner, install the sliding tracks on the inside part of the roof, etc. You lose at least 2 inches of headroom with those old power sliders plus they were a royal pita to install.
  15. Most of my 2 cents on this have been covered but I've got a few points that nobody mentioned. Yes packaging space and weight plus transverse or longitudinal placement in the chassis is what started the big switch especially for front wheel drive. Balance shaft technology is what gave manufacturers the ability to make a v6 almost as smooth as an inline 6, 5cyl and big over-square 4 bangers too. For manufacturers that sell v-8 and v-6 engines it's easier to convert a v-8 engine line to produce v-6s or vice versa depending on market demand than to switch an inline engine plant over to make v-8s.
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