sprinthead

Oh ya ! Plenty up here ... doesnt seem many know of the board ... or just dont care ! Up in Kelowna myself .... gone wheelin up and down damn near every logging road and even some quad trails up and down the valley ! Lots of fun and plenty to see around our area !

A while ago I cruising around the board, and *somebody* was attempting to put a set of headers from an up to 95 3.0 L into a 96 and up 3.3 L R50. I remember thinking this was a pretty do-able thing, aside from cat conv fitment , o2 sensor bungs and possible clearance and fit issues. I would like to find out what this person did , and if they managed to make it work , and what headers they used if it did work ! I've tried the search function but have not been able to find the thread !! Can anybody help with finding this person, as I'm about to do full exhaust on my R50 and am seriously thinking headers and such ! Thanks all !!!

Well ... I think that will be my plan of attack ! I already have the 2 front diff mounts unbolted from the crossmember, so its *just* ( HA ! ) a matter of undoing the inboard cv joints at the flanges ... I think I will start with the drivers side first cuz I've seen mentioned you hadda pop that one out to pull the engine, so why pull both if ya dont need to , pull the front driveshaft , undo the 3 bolts holding the diff to the rear crossmember and see if that works, if not ... I go further and drop the rear diff crossmember and right side cv joint at the flange ! Will post what works ( since I'm figuring out what DOESN'T !! )

LOL !! I hear ya on that one ! I learned that trick many years ago ( altho pulling I once cracked myself in the jaw with a 1/2" breaker bar !! ) ... has saved me from many a busted knuckle !! What's your thots on what I'm suggesting tho ?? Does it sound like it would work ???

Thanks for the insight ! Yesterday when I was under the truck ( trucks in my case !! heh ! ), I noticed that the forward crossmember that has the 2 mounts that are on the frontside of the diff, is attached with 2 bolts on each end. These bolts are nutted on the frontside of the crossmember, thus leaving the bolts to come thru from back to front. On either side, one of each of these bolts are readily removeable, but the other ones, I believe upper outer ones, look as tho they will not be easily removed cuz of the control arm being slightly in the way ! My thots on getting the diff down ( and or OUT ) are this; undo both forward mounts on front crossmember, leaving the front crossmember still in vehicle, undo both cv axles on the inboard ends but leave them in the spindles, remove the front driveshaft, undo the vent tube, remove the bolts on either end that hold the diffs rear crossmember, and I *think* I should be good to go ! Am I right, wrong or totally out 2 lunch !! After 2 days solid workin on the ground ... motivation to get back under it again right away is almost non existant ! My 47 y/o bod is killin me ! LOL !! Any help is most certainly appreciated !! Thanks !

Thanks for the heads up on that one !! Now to either get a tranny jack, an extra body ... or split the tranny and t/case apart ( but that sounds like FAR too much work !! )

So lemme ask ya something ... how brutally heavy is the transmission and transfer case to re and re ? I'm doing an engine swap and am having issues with getting the damn thing out, so I am thinking about pulling the transmission and t/case to aid in getting the engine out for one, but I think the trans/transfer case in the donor vehicle is in better shape too ... so I'm thinkin bugger it ... switch the entire driveline over ! Reason I ask is that I'm workin solo ( altho I can get some extra hands to help ... ), but I could get a floor jack and a tranny jack adapter ... cuz I'm guessing the thing weighs a TON !!

OMG !! Anybody got any tricks or ideas on how in the world to get the dam engine OUT ???!!! I've gotten to the point where the engine is on the cherry picker and split from the bellhousing ( manual trans truck ... ), but the freakin oil pan wont clear the front diff !! I've read my stupid dam Haynes manual about 20 times trying figure out all the subtleties of getting it to the point where it WILL come out ! In the Haynes manual they talk about undoing 4 bolts that hold the diff to the crossmember and just letting it rest on it .... I'm guessing ( since its SO vague ... ) they are referring to the two mounts that attach the diff to * A * crossmember just forward of the diff !! Only other thing I can see doing is takin out the 2 bolts that hold the SECOND crossmember to the frame as this appears to have 3 bolts that hold the pinnion end of the diff to this crossmember !! The FSM says ya gotta take out the drivers side cv axle , but this is kinda vague too !! And why the hell do ya need to pull the cv axle to change the engine out !! What in the world am I missing here that someones's gonna enlighten me to so I can feel like a real IDIOT !! Thanks in advance for any learned and experienced help !! >> Well .... downloaded the FSM from a link posted here .... and OMG !! This looks like its gonna get REAL ugly !! Looks like I'm droppin the frikken front diff !!! Oh Yeah !!

Thanks for all the positve feedback ! I was initially REALLY pissed off at whomever hit the truck, but then after tracking down that bumper, I was all giggity to get it mounted up ! The guys that did the work was a place in Kelowna called Truckworks. They do general repairs and extreme 4x4 modifications and custom work. Granted the guy doing the fab work deviated a bit from what I had envisioned, but in retrospect my design ideas were WAY overkill !! The bumper itself came off what I think was about a mid 80's Toyota 4x4 pickup for the nice price of $300. The bumper does have provision for a fairlead, so when I had the guy fab up the mounts for it, I asked if he could make it so I could put a winch and mountplate in at some point down the road. I guess I will need to buy a winch and actually attempt to install it to see if it would all fit nicely. Realistically I can't see myself needing a winch anytime soon since I don't take it into really nutso places ..... yet !! I got a sweet deal on the labor to the tune of a mere $400 for a little over 10 hours of shop time, and that included ALL the materials ! Big thanks to Kyle and Trent at Truckworks for the primo job !! I will have to wash the truck and shinny under it to get some pics of the mount assembly, but it's pretty sweet, 8 bolts to undo and the bumper is off, leaving just the fabricated mount assembly. The mount assembly consists of 2 side plates bolted to the *frame* horns/ends, with a piece of fairly heavy c channel welded across the front between the the 2 brackets, and the actual mount tabs all fabbed and welded to put the bumper at the right height, and then the lower brackets fabbed fitted and welded in place. Pics will make it all more clear as to how it was done , just wish I coulda done the whole job myself, but no place to do it and lack of a welder is a bit of a showstopper !! LOL !!!

Damn USB cable was hiding in plain sight ! Too many cables for everything !! LOL !! Initial Damage ... All fixed up and fitted !! So ... while it was a bit expensive to get all the brackets fabbed and the bumper installed, I think it looks pretty damn decent ! So a mid to later 80's Toy pu bumper can be fitted to a Pathy ... just need either all the equipment, or a fist full of $$$ !!

I'd put some pics up if I could A) Find the damn USB cable for my camera, Find a host to put pics up on ! The shop I took it to here in Kelowna ( Truckworks ) to have the mounts fabbed up did an awesome job ! They made the mounts so I could even sneak a winch in behind at some point down the road ! My truck looks like a BEAST now .... plus it affords some much needed front end protection when wheeling in some of the absolutely idiotic places I do go !! LOL !! Small trees fear me now .... heheh !! I will get some pics up soon ...

Well the G/F and I headed up to take a look at it, and it was in really decent shape. The Toyota mounts are a few inches narrower, but that isn't too much of a problem to overcome ! I'm just gonna have to design some sturdy mounts and have those fabbed up and then I'll be good to go ! Where the bumper wraps around the front fenders will need some clearancing, but again thats minor ! I will post a pic or two when I get this thing all mounted and such. Its gonna look sweet once re-polish it !! heheh !! Shoulda seen the tube frame rock crawler the guy had built that was sitting in the garage ! Holy ! The thing was a beast ! The truck the bumper came off became the parts donor vehicle to create his crawler ! The guy was pretty talented I gotta say !! Off to see the guys at the local 4x4 shop to have them fab brackets and get the bumper hung so it doesn't look like I'm driving a wreck !! LOL !!

Thanks Pezzy !! I saw the pics of your install, and I'm just hoping the brackets are all in about the same place from Toy to Niss !!! I think I will just say to hell with it and peel off all the the bent up stuff off tonight in prep to go see this Toyota one tomorrow so I can sorta hang it and see how far off everything is ! I would have to guess the frame widths at the front are very close, or at least close enough that brackets will be easy to fab !! I found the bumper at http://www.buysell.com/root/detail/BC/Imp_...per_350_00.aspx

Two days ago I came out to go to work only to discover that some inconsiderate SOB hit and ran my 97 Pathy !! They did a nice job of plowing the front bumper in, lucky enough they didn't push anything into the the AC condenser ! Since I didn't put collision on my truck, my deductible for a hit and run is $750 instead of the $300 it would of been had I had collision insurance ! Damage was pegged at $2300, but since I work in an auto parts store, I can get all the parts NEW for about $400 to put it back to stock, but who wants to do stock !?!?! I have located what appears to be an aluminum TJM bumper off of a mid 80's Toyota pickup that can be had for about $300. Question is if any of you know whether this could be retro fitted to fit before I drive 50 miles to even see it !! I'm thinking if the bracket mounts are close enough, I can have one of the guys at a shop up here whip up some mounts for it. For $300 you can see why I would like to be all over this if it can be made to fit !! Thanks in advance for input and help !!!

I thought they became law up here for the 1989 model year, but according to Wikipedia, it was 1990 ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daytime_running_lamp ). Personally, I wouldn't give up my DRL equpped vehicle after having a couple close calls ( oddly enough both times were with US plated vehicles that DIDN'T have DRL's or headlights on !!! ) in the daytime. Proven to save lives, but if you run around with your low beams on all the time, what the hey eh !! It will technically fail an inspection order !!