Whitebrick

If only i had see this earlier. I have a 2wd 5 speed and had those on there for years. they bolted up the motor just fine. the y pipe was the problem. i bought mine off jegs in 2007. they looked great at first then the shine was gone in 6 months. had to go to a muffler shop to make a y pipe that would work. mostly to fit and as well as be able to take them off if i had to take the trans off. long story shot........simply junk. the heat off of them will brake down every rubber hose, line you have. the passenger side would hit the frame taking off from a stop or when the a/c kicked on at lights. the past year i have be rebuilding the old girl and i put all the stock stuff. the sound of the old manifolds sound better to me with the magnaflow thats on it. (thats just me its hard to make a v6 sound good.) I would give you my old ones and send them to you but i threw them out even tried seeing to a couple of nissan heads they didnt even want them. just word of advise about the ones your looking at. if it works out for you thats awesome i just didnt have any luck with them.

oh one more thing when its doing that and you bump the gas the speedometer will go up as well when its doing its stupid crap.

Not to change the topic but would this also effect the speedometer as well? What i mean is when its cold out (around 30 to 60) and i start up the truck the speedometer revs up with the rpm's. it will be at around 1200 rpms and it will show that im doing 30 mph. i always heat up my truck hot or cold but if i give it a few minuets it will settle back down and not do it again.

I didnt have time this weekend to check it out....work got in the way.if thats all it is then i will have to do that and just find or make something to take the place of the gap that it now has. If its something as simple as that then i can find something at work for that.

I will for sure be taking it apart this weekend and seeing whats going on. i will just take my time this time. k9sar if you find a gray one let me know i will for sure get it either way if i fix it or not. one of those better to have than not. just pm me on it if you come across one. thanks again everyone.

I did that as well. you can the hear the lock moving back and forth but nothing.

ya i did. When you pull the latch its not touching anything. It feels like its locked. I have pulled, hit, everything but preyed on it do to making marks all over the thing. I didnt know if you could pull the screws off at the bottom and some how move it around to get the damn thing open.

Does anyone out there know a way with out breaking anything to get the freaking glove box open. it feels like the thing is locked but its really not. I never really used the lock for it. I dont ever slam it shut i always pull the handle when closing it. I really need to get it open so i can carry again.

I put a pro comp 18 on mine they say its 1800 cfm however........right now its about 30 degrees out and does well. i do have a switch on it so i do have to keep a eye on the temp. when its 75 out and have the a/c on its not enough. it will rise right over half way. so i left it there and put the mechanical fan back on only using the e fan for the summer when it gets over 100 just to help out.

For those who my have seen my last post a few months ago I had a knock code on the old pathfinder. Let me first lest all the crap that i have done to fix the damn thing. 1. new knock sensor (and in the right place not relocated on the top or whatever) $120 2. all new fuel injectors $450 3. took the MSD box out 4. timing is back to 14 degrees (have also played around with it and took it back to 10 degrees just to see if it would go a way but still would hear it.) 5. new speed sensor. $125 (only because it was throwing a code for it and i was thinking that it may have a issue with everything going on) 6. have changed different grades of gas from midd to high octane as well as different brands of gas. (around my area valero and shell.) 7. new cat (only because i gutted the old one only to find out it throws a egr code and smell like a old 70s hot rod but with lack of power.) $98.00 Alright now as it sits and have been for about a month now i have been running 93 octane. I have no codes right now and haven't with all the crap i have changed. 55. It drives with no problems idles better than it has ever been. However when im in second going to third gear around 2600 rpms you can hear like a air hammer hitting the side of the block. then once in third you will hear it again around 28 to 3000 rpms. thats the only time i hear it but i shift by then due to the fact that i know its doing something destructive. in first nothing fourth and fifth gear i hear nothing. I really thought i had it fixed the first round with changing the knock sensor but due to work and moving i havent had time to post this. the only thing i have been doing is fixing the codes that it was showing and doing what i know form experience with cars. one more thing it has new plugs wires cap rotor. there all about four or five months old. This has all stared about mid June. Right now its sitting with 243000 miles and i am beyond anal with this truck so i have kept up with everything from oil tune ups timing you name it. It has either been changed or fixed. Thank you for your help and time.

Do you have to solder everything or just a few like do you know witch ones to do. Or do they all break in different places? Mine stopped working last summer but when the temperature dropped to 40s and 30s they worked like nothing had even happen. 2drpath I wish i could tell you where its at. However the book that i have for the path shows on two doors its in the same spot. I dont know if it looks the same as the one there showing.

I wish you had a manual. i have one sitting in my dads house that needs a rebuild. that my weakness on cars is trans. Its like magic to me how they work. i will be watching this to see how if you do rebuild it. i always have time to learn new things.

thats what i was thinking too. the speedo works like i know its off having the 31s on it but its never not worked or jumped around or anything. I guess i need to check everything again and make sure that i put everything back right. look at the plugs and what not. I pulled the battery just to see if that would do anything after reading the codes about it. after putting it back it sometimes does it then it drives like nothing happened. it got to be a connection problem. never throws a light or anything. We will see. i will keep yall posted on what it is with it. a small job got a little bigger.

I would just change it but its $120 for it. I just dropped over 200 for the knock sensor and seals.

Lol well it did last that long..... i have cheeked everything that i did plugs vacuum lines everything. Now when i take off it feels like its missing or something. so i checked the plug wires maybe i pulled them out and there not connected well. all of them where good. so i dove it home from work and checked the codes. NOW i have a 14 code. speed sensor...... what im asking is would that make it run like that as if its miss firing? sometimes it feels like this thing is against me.