ThomasMoore

Yeah, they are stock not custom. What you are looking it is the stock flares with rubber trim added as an extension to cope with the big tyres. Check this link for details on how it screws onto the wheel arch. I'm 99% sure this is the story. I threw out my only original flare last weekend, but I can make photographs of my 1990 if you want to see how the rubber flare extensions look. Where are you at in Australia? I have a spare roll of the rubber if you need it. Thomas

Cheers. I'll have a crack at this on the weekend and post photographs if I get it to work.

Hey guys, Probably a dumb question, but how do I go about upping the idle on my pathy? She's running a little low at stop lights. Probably around 600rpm, but i'm not sure as the tach is a little out at lower revs... Cheers, Thomas

almost all the interiors here are in really, really bad condition. almost as bad as mine. i've been meaning to do a 'refit' on the interior for a while (new carpet, seats etc), will post a few updates over the coming weeks.

for a hundred bucks or so, I might just give it a shot. If I do, i'll post what I find here and let you know how goes. if it needs fabbing, so be it. as always, thanks all for the advice.

Hey Team, The front seats on my 1990 WD21 (3 door) are pretty tired. I found a good (cheap-ish) set of R51 seats on Ebay (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Front-Seats-Nissan-Pathfinder-R51-D40-Navara-C55_W0QQitemZ160399415710QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Car_Parts_Accessories?hash=item25588cd99e) - how easy would these be to retrofit to my truck? Also, any suggestions on what to replace the rear seats with?

Second Queenslander right here - Brisbane, WD21 1990 Pathfinder. Will upload pics after the paintjob (which is long overdue thanks to unexpected dental bills...)

Hey Guys, I was going to rebuild the console (speedo & tachy) on my '90 pathfinder, but figured it'd probably be easier to re-wire / retrofit something a little more modern. I figure my first stumbling block is going to be the analogue speedo on the car. How easy / expensive is this to replace with a digital sensor? I figure I can find a digital sender unit / wiring from a local wreckers. Any experience with how to do this at the tranny end? (Update - Z24 engine. Looking around PartsTrain doesn't look too optimistic for a matching speed sensor...) Cheers, Thomas

Thanks for the reply - very much appreciated. I've just spent the last hour trying varying configurations, but still no joy - at least when it's hot wired I can get some sound out of it before it dies 10 seconds later. The first problem seems to be that the +ve input on the old 3 pin relay is burnt out, so I wired a new +ve direct from the battery to pins 30 & 85. This still doesn't resolve any issues: Following your instructions, it should look like this, right? I'll double check the contacts in the steering column, but i'm doubtful that this is the issue. How would I check the contacts in the steering column? I'm assuming the button here is hot? Thomas

Heh, would love to and will do, but over here they are considered "novelty" and aren't allowed as primary horns. Anyone?

Hey there, Can anyone help a newbie with what is probably a really simple question? I replaced the horn on my truck (the old stock one had died a long time ago, somehow managed to get it through the roadworthy minus a horn), wired it in place, worked like a charm and then died in the ass. From what I can tell the horn relay died. Went looking for another relay (the old one is a 3 pin 12V 15A that looks something like below): Apparently the only three pin relays are for indicators (i.e. they flash), and no-one has heard of a three pin relay for a horn. I got hold of a stock lighting/horn relay (four pin, 12V 30A) which looks something like this: Question is, how do I wire this together? I thought it would be pretty simple, i.e. wiring (1) - (85), (3) - (30), (2) - (86/87). I connected 86 and 87 together before putting pin (2) on (86). Sorry if this is a really basic question, but it's been bugging me all weekend as it should be really, really simple. Happy to provide photographs if need be (yes, it definitely is the horn relay), and it worked fine before the relay blew out. Any suggestions would be really appreciated. Thomas

Yeah, definitely stripped on the top of the heads (not the manifold, sorry) - spoke to the mechanic today who says that the head might have to be removed to re-thread these - is this reasonable? I'm kinda surprised - is this standard? Still waiting for a quote for the labour though...

Hey, Pathfinder is sitting in the local garage waiting on a thread guy to come tommorow to quote for re-tapping the header bolts (stripped threads, usual story) - i've no idea how much to expect for this. Anyone have any experience and $0.02? Thomas

I'd be more than happy to shill $$$ for this - do you have a paypal account or similar? See how many people would be willing to recoup costs for you here on NPORA before releasing it into the wild via hosting (which inevitably would mean recouping no costs at all - there aren't too many philanthropists outside of these circles who would be willing to click that donate button). After this, setting up a torrent would reduce bandwidth and remove any issues of DMCA notices. Let us know what we can do. Thomas.

So, I removed the exhaust manifold from my 1990 WD21 (the threads are stripped on the bolts). First image (anyone had a competition for most rusted component on their pathy? Will post pictures of the muffler / catalytic elsewhere at a later date ) The entire process was a pain in the @ss - as you can see from the picture below, after trying to remove in-situ, the spanner completely stripped the thread. Enter trusty hacksaw: So now the exhaust manifold is out, and I still can't shift it - the threads are rusted firm. I've tried WD40, rust remover, locktite ice-spray, tapping with a hammer, over the period of a week or so, and still no joy. So with no grip on a spanner, earlier this evening I drilled a 6mm hole (as you can probably tell, the first one didn't work out too well, pipe is too soft...) and have snapped several screwdrivers and steel rods attempting to twist loose. Any suggestions? Getting close to just ditching the entire thing and replacing it, but the rust clears up well and any $$$ saved go back into restoration.