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JimyJames

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  • Posts

    24
  • Joined

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Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    99 Pathfinder Stock
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
    22-29
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
    Other/Unknown
  • Year
    1999

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Utah
  • Country
    United States
  • Interests
    Exploring

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  1. Hey Guys and or Gals, Looking to see if I am up that one creek without a paddle. Seeing if there is a way to save my T-Case. Long story short I was tracing a shimmy and the shimmy beat me to the punch. Blew linkage, drive-line in the rear u joint and smacked the ish out of my T-Case webbing. No leaks or gaping holes just the linkage is the issue. Anyway to salvage this?
  2. I have the falken wild peaks i love them i have them on AE steelies.. But I had a bent rim that sounds like your situation. You can tell its bent when they are balancing it usually.
  3. Radial force variation is similar to radial runout and is a result of a heavy or thicker area being manufactured into the tire due to variations in component thickness, placement and overlapping. Radial force variation applies more force against the road at the tire's thicker spot as the tire runs, which causes one sidewall to flex differently than the other. The result is tire/wheel assembly vibration and irregular tread wear. To avoid or minimize these problems, whenever you see a red spot, match this up with the valve stem-unless you happen to have a steel wheel that has a dimple on the exterior side of the rim area. The dimple indicates the wheels' low spot and is spec'ed by some original equipment manufacturers so that they can match mount tires and wheels installed on new trucks at the factory. If you see both a red as well as a yellow dot on the tire, the red dot takes priority. An easy way to remember this is the phrase ``Red Rules.'' Ignore the yellow dot and match the red dot to the wheel low point dimple as some vehicle manufacturers do or, if no dimple is marked on the wheel, align the red dot with the valve stem. From what I read
  4. I like the option to be able to moc up a XJ bumper, like being able to attach a rough country bumper to this mount. The winch channels not a bad idea also if you have the ability to moc up your own bumper or mod the factory bumper. Thanks for updating.
  5. I've been looking for something like this with reading the same thread of onespirit. I like the idea, I'd buy.
  6. I'm still pretty new to the R50 world can anyone tell me on the KYBs what the difference is on the 12/98 vs the 11/98 on KYBs Catalog same for 4x4parts.com for the passenger 1996-4/1999 Pathfinder 12/1998-2001 Pathfinder.
  7. Thanks, are there any rings that need to be removed>? I didnt see any O rings or C Rings removed off the shaft on this install. Or is it just plug an play minus the wheel studs..
  8. Do manual hubs differ on manual transmission or are they all the same?
  9. if its like my 00 maxima maybe shift lock sensor mine wouldn't let me engage out of park unless i engaged the shift lock button. Like all have said you should hear a click
  10. I'd consider buying from ya if it doesn't work out unless I can cop one from a local yard. I have a 99 pathfinder 5 speed 4x4. Unless its only for R51s
  11. Thanks all who gave me feed back. I double checked the steering pump belt when the snow let up and it was a tad loose. I tightened it and it seems to have alleviated the squeal and the stiff wheel on turn. Still need a fluid swap though the fluid is pretty toasty. Ill keep it monitored and see if anything else arises.
  12. I'll give the belt a closer look. I can imagine a loose belt would cause a drop in psi charge to the pump. It does squeal at full lock either way the wheel is turned. I'll flush it when it stops snowing out here, hopefully it'll resolve. I've done cv axels so rack an pinion isn't too bad an the pump seems pretty accessible after the fan components are cleared
  13. Thanks for the replies, I'm an ok mechanic and I'd say if the rack doesn't squeal then its the pump. Belts are solid and the squeals also are followed by stiff wheel and studder in the wheel when in a tight turn or pulling out of a parking spot. The fluid is a little fried too, I've been monitoring the levels of the fluid and nothing has fluctuated as if it was a leak. I've just never had to work with a rack an pinion but it seems like an easy fix either it be the pump or the rack.
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