wris

I installed a new fuel pump on advice of a mechanic 'whom I trust' by the way, to cure rough running and near stall condition.It never did stall completely though. The problem was not cured. It has 160k miles on it of which 70k are mine and I have no idea of what work was performed previously. So I decided we should go for the timing belt as the timing mark could not be brought in line with the pointer. The belt turned out to be in very good condition I'm sorry to say, but the keyway to align the harmonic balancer was badly eroded. Timing problem was solved, and I have a new timing belt and water pump I didn't really need. That sounds like a complaint I know, but it really isn't. The truck ran really well for about a month, had acceleration I had never seen before and I suddenly liked her again. I guess I was relaxing a little too much, last week it started running rough again,(did you notice how quickly I went from 'her' to 'it'?) and died for, the first time, at the entrance to a three lane on ramp, at rush hour. My son came out in his 535 beemer and towed me home.( I just never have a camera when I need one.) I put a pressure gauge into the fuel line between the filter and the engine and read about 40lbs. Start it up, it runs well for about 3 mins., then the pressure begins to drop off.It seems alright till somewhere between 15 to 20 lbs rough running starts, and stalls at about 10 lbs. The ignition is still on but the pressure on the gauge remains steady at the level of stall. As I write this it occurs to me I could check if there is power to the pump at this time. My question is, how does the fuel pump maintain correct pressure to the system? Could this problem be related to engine temp for instance or some other solenoid or whatever else my feeble mind can't quite grasp yet? There just isn't enough valuable technical info. available any more. I don't think we need Haynes to tell us how to rebuild transmissions and do body work. Can I get an Amen?

I hope aparker has resolved the cylinder head problem, and I don't have additional advice on the topic, but this is the latest post I could find on timing questions. my 95 xe appeared to have jumped a cog. 160,000 miles of history and I have no knowledge of any maintenence that has been performed, so decided to replace the belt. To make a long story short,you don't necessairly need to remove the drive sprocket from the crankshaft to replace the belt, and we almost didn't. something just didn't look quite right so we took it off. the woodruff key which locates the sprocket on the crank was almost completely sheared off. one more backfire would likely have spelled the end of the motor. I'm shure others have seen this, but in 45 years of wrenching,or is it wenching?, it's my first. Using a new key,We filled the damaged key slot with liquid steel, put all the parts back where they belonged, and I think it's saved. so,words to the wise,Look very carefully at your parts. Don't let anyone tell you "it's probably ok".

If you ground yourself to the vehicle, keep your right hand on the ignition switch bezel for instance, or any other part which is grounded to the body,the static will be passed to ground when your foot touches the pavement. Maybe. It works for me.