ChemExposure

Nevermind, a hammer, cold chisel and two steel bars work just as good as the proper tool for the job.

Did you end up having to use the Nissan tool #J-45073? Aside from waiting for the rotors to come in the mail the rear axle nut is the only thing holding me back from getting this done.

The guys at O'reillys may have given you a rear wheel seal. The ones for the front should have an extra lip on them to prevent it from going too far into the hub. The guys at Canadian tire pulled the same thing on me, I installed mine anyways and as I was pressing it in the metal retainer spring snapped like yours. I took the one off my old seal put it on and called it a day. https://www.autopartsway.ca/partdetails.cfm?w0133-1638754/ndk/nissan/2001/pathfinder/se/3.5l-v6/allb/driveline-and-axles/gaskets-and-sealing-systems/wheel-seal/pagenum1/tabs Those are the correct ones that match the OEM seals.

I'm very fond of my Rancho Struts. They're very stiff but have enough give to them that you don't notice bumps or potholes. Like Mjotrainbrain said, KYB struts and shocks are good, everything else from them is junk. You might as well do ball joints and CV's while you're down there and if you get the chance jack it up to see if there's problems with other parts. I found out one of my ball joints was bad while I was replacing the strut so I ended up having to do the job twice. Wheel bearings and brakes are easy and worthwhile to do too.

If it happens at idle then it probably isn't the LSD. Take off your belts and check for bad bearings, my alternator bearing started to get really bad around 225K as well as the idler pulley bearings. Does it get better as it warms up?

How much more do you figure you could safely tow with rear disc brakes and the WD21 master cylinder? I've heard from a couple people now that the 5000 pound tow capacity is mostly due to the braking efficiency. I've contacted someone with a 93; I'm hoping it's an SE. My drums need servicing anyways so I might as well make the jump now. I'll post back with how that goes.

I've had my interior panels off for so long that I forgot I even had one of those! By the way man, this might hurt a little bit to hear but I'm almost sure you're holding the factory harness for the 12V connection in one of those pictures. I've found that Nissan luckily only had one wiring harness throughout their packages, at least it's the case on every Canadian Pathfinder I've seen. But hey, you've got some nice wiring for an auxilary tire carrier mounted backup light or a low powered amplifier now!

Mine was definitely on the top. Just take yours out to find out, they're slider pins. Should slide easy lol. Check the brake section of the factory service manual. Everything you probably need to see is in there.

Do you mean the one with the rubber ring on the inside? That's the top one. Otherwise all 4 of them all have the same rubber boots. Just buy the slider pin kit for a Pathfinder from an auto parts store.

Oh nice, well I'm definitely going to keep my eye out for one. It'd be perfect for a light dimming circuit for the bush bar.

I'm getting one of them wifi/bluetooth OBDII scanners tomorrow so I'll report back on what that can read out. Mrelcocko, what's that switch that has the 1 2 3? Is it a light dimmer?

It's pretty easy, a bearing greaser fitting for a grease gun helps out a lot. I did mine by hand and holy did it ever make it a pain in the ass. As for the tensioning ring, I did mine with a phillips screwdriver. You just tighten it until it makes contact with the bearing and pushes it in a bit to seat everything in place properly, back it off then tighten it again so it just barely makes contact with the bearing, enough for the ring to catch when it spins so it self tightens and then from there I just turned the hub around four or five times untit it felt right and there wasn't any play when moving the hub then I put the two screws back in and called er a day. There's a couple videos on youtube, just search up generic terms like pathfinder hub bearing or terrano bearing repack. You might actually be able to get away with regreasing your bearings, mine were in pretty good shape. I've driven for about a year now no issues with a repacking although I do plan on replacing the bearings soon anyways when I get locking hubs. You'll need snap ring pliers as well to even start the job. I guess you might not have this issue, but make sure you get front wheel seals and not the rear ones. While the rear ones do fit and as I've found out do work they're a pain in the ass to get in properly level, I had to use my press on the cocksuckers. The front seals have a small ridge that prevents them from being inserted too deeply which really makes things easy so if you go to Canadian tire and they give you a rear seal and call it a front... Just go back there and slap the guy, don't listen to him. If you were ever going to do your brakes now is a good time too.

I might try this out on the trim around the windows and my roof rack mounts. I wonder if dust and pollen would stick to it though.

It seems to me the one major drawback of having a spare tire carrier is parallel parking, it would make more sense in a right side driving country to have it open to the left so you can access the trunk from the passenger/sidewalk side. So considering that you can put these on without any reinforcement, do you see any major issues aside from a lot of work flipping it backwards and mounting it so it opens to the left? Everything seems pretty straightforward, just basic cutting and welding. The smaller inserted curved tubes might be tricky but other then that am I missing something major that would make this impossible? I guess if someone ends up getting this pathfinder after me they'll sure as hell be confused as to why the carrier open light shows it opening to the right, but that's not my problem. I'm hoping to buy one tomorrow, if I end up flipping it around I'll start a thread for sure.

Have you got around to the passenger side yet? I'm hoping to do mine in September before another winter season.