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Member Since 18 May 2016
OFFLINE Last Active Today, 02:41 PM

#796417 96 SE Fixer upper

Posted by mjotrainbrain on 08 February 2018 - 03:55 PM

I feel like I may have asked before, but I can't remember. Could you share your technique and products used for undercoating? It looks fantastic!

#796392 interchangeable parts between pre and post-face?

Posted by mjotrainbrain on 07 February 2018 - 05:53 PM

Seats should be possible, front end only is if you swap out the whole front clip, but it should bolt right up from the experiences of others that I've read about.  Rear bumper probably won't line up perfect due to fender flare differences, but it should bolt up.  Can't guarantee any of that because I've never done it, but from what I've heard over time it should all be possible.

#796351 astrorami’s build thread

Posted by mjotrainbrain on 05 February 2018 - 09:09 PM

Ive read through a bunch of the threads, I was just curious if anyone had any updated or different info. The photobucket issue definitely makes it harder to visualize the write ups

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Check this out, it should help your research.


These power valve screws are definitely something to look into, especially with all these recent conversations.

#796348 astrorami’s build thread

Posted by mjotrainbrain on 05 February 2018 - 07:20 PM

I was browsing the forum earlier today and came across the power valve screws topic. Made me wonder... so I bought the gasket set for the manifolds. Will probably get to it this weekend or next. Does anyone have any tips for getting to the screws?

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Pretty sure there's some write ups out there.  Might have to dig around a bit, they were probably written close to a decade ago.

#796311 4x4 parts rear swaybar disconnects

Posted by mjotrainbrain on 04 February 2018 - 05:30 PM

Funny you should ask.  I removed the sway bar and links for an off-road trip just last week, and that might have been the only time since my last post.
The hang-up for me was just not coming up with a good way to pin the sway bar up.  I liked the idea of some sort of secondary bungee or spring that allowed the ends of the sway to 'float' when the links were disconnected.  A bracket on the axle side would be annoying to reach with the tires in the way.
It was also evident that over time, dirt got into the joints I used, which made it a little difficult to remove.  Add to the fact my complaints about the spring density making one side tougher to compress.  I will note that the joints have otherwise held up well over the years without any maintenance, but there was always some chatter to them.
Lastly, street driving to and from the trail without the sway bar was just too noticeable for me...and not having it while on the trail was not noticeable enough (except when I was bombing through the trail and kind of wished it was still attached).  My springs are worn, so that's probably a factor.  I'll be going the LR spring route soon, and will probably put the bar back on today actually (have some highway driving tomorrow).  I'm also going to see about using these front sway bar end links for a 05-09 LR3 to replace the disconnects:
They look longer than the stock links, and instead of a fixed shaft at the top (RH side in the pic), there's a joint on them.  Not sure the stud sizes, but I'll make it work.
No plans to do the fronts, pretty much for the same reasons.  Because of the angle of the bar ends, there's no good place to pin them up without contact from some other component.

I'll be interested to see your results from the LR3 disconnects, if it works out I'll definitely be switching to this when I need to replace them again. Strange how so much Land Rover stuff fits on the rear of our rigs, and it took 20 years for anybody to notice...

#796276 Trouble starting/dying

Posted by mjotrainbrain on 03 February 2018 - 10:45 AM

Well it fired up perfectly yesterday and did great on my test drive. It seems fine but I'm still nervous. I guess we'll see on the 600 mile trip back to Montana tomorrow!


Good luck!  Make sure you have backup/emergency plans in case it leaves you stranded.

#796272 What did you do to your Pathfinder today?

Posted by mjotrainbrain on 03 February 2018 - 10:14 AM

Recently moved (mid December) and after driving the pathy the 3 hours to my new house, I lost the key. Also forgot my password to the forums.

Recently found the key in the bottom of my wife's purse, so took the pathy for a spin to the post office after it sitting for a month and a half. Also, reset my password. I am back!

Close call! Glad you're back, wondered why you weren't posting!
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#796225 January 2017 TotM Winner

Posted by mjotrainbrain on 01 February 2018 - 07:44 PM

Congrats Gspeed151!   :aok:



#796221 NPORA Truck of the Year

Posted by mjotrainbrain on 01 February 2018 - 07:26 PM

2017: micahfelker
*pending official border

#796142 Some Quick Help Needed

Posted by mjotrainbrain on 30 January 2018 - 05:37 AM

Sorry to hear about you missing that 34K engine. I'm going through something similar myself thanks to NIssan and it's loose Power Valve Screws. See my postings on http://www.nissanpat...ences/?p=796139

Your story has me nervous, I had figured that after so many miles if the screws were going to come out, they would have already done it. I guess not, and now I'll have to do this job this summer now too.

#796128 Land Rover rear lift spring install

Posted by mjotrainbrain on 29 January 2018 - 04:52 PM


That's actually a really good point that I totally didn't think of. My cv's are actually pretty level right now surprisingly, especially compared to some I've seen. The main setback is still that I hate taking apart the strut. I wish you could just slide a spacer on top of the strut assembly without having to undo everything to put longer bolts in. I might just wait it out and get used to how it is so that I don't need to do all that again. Three times has been more than enough already haha


Yeah, I hate that too.  I've been wondering if there's necessarily anything wrong with running the bolts from the top so you don't have to take the strut apart to switch bolts?

#796119 Land Rover rear lift spring install

Posted by mjotrainbrain on 29 January 2018 - 03:26 PM

Kent, to answer your question which I didn't see before, I currently only have the OME springs up front. Like I said though I'm really thinking about going for it to take off an inch or so of the rake, but I'm sort of concerned about the angle of the cv axles. I know people have run a 1" spacer on top of AC springs before, which seem to be way taller than mine to begin with but I'm still on the fence. What do you guys think?


I run a 1" spacer with my OME springs no issue.  Of course mine are compressed more from the weight of the bumper, but it shouldn't be an issue anyways, since at full droop the CV's will still be at less angle than they are with people who run 2" spacers.  Of course regular operating angle is what will wear them out, but you can rest easy knowing that they won't be able to bind at droop.  I'd do at least an inch if I were you, it would still have good rake and sit real nice.

#796061 My build/adventure thread

Posted by mjotrainbrain on 27 January 2018 - 06:27 PM

It looks so much better now, really looks great man! Wish my front end say a little higher like yours, I've got so much weight.

#796050 Land Rover rear lift spring install

Posted by mjotrainbrain on 26 January 2018 - 10:49 PM

Yup, avoid the KYB bearing and top plate. The ones Micah Felker had totally failed, and mine are a little clunky, although still tight (fingers crossed). OEM Nissan is the way to go. It's like the carb on a 3.3; pay for the right part, and never worry again.

#796049 Random picture of your R50

Posted by mjotrainbrain on 26 January 2018 - 10:46 PM

I've went R50 Crazy! Another 500$ find. 96 SE

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I look forward to it! Infiniti wheels on this one too?

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