archer973

Thanks to Cuong Nguyen, I finally found the Door Lock Timer. I tested it and will describe my tests and conclusions. I don't like the threads I see where people ask questions, receive a lot of advice and then never come back to let us know if and how the problem was resolved. I had previously tested the door lock switch and found it was functioning properly. After locating the Door Lock Timer, I disconnected the connector and tested for voltages and grounds on it. Refer to the figure in the following link. This is a portion of the wiring diagram for the 1990 Pathfinder chassis wiring in the Chilton manual. If you do not have Chilton, go to the Repair Guide on the autozone.com website. I'm fairly certain that repair guide is a copy of the Chilton manual, but it might be Haynes. https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3qYZBSJdOoBUXdWMXRkaVdZaDg Notes about the figure: 1) I never located the circuit breaker. 2) The BLU/GRN and BLU/ORN wires are actually YEL/RED and YEL/BLK. I did not take time to determine which corresponded to which as it wasn't necessary for my testing. I used a digital multi-meter to make these tests. The WHT/GRN wire in the connector is 12 Vdc. A continuity test on the BLK wire showed it is connected to chassis ground. I had an assistant (the lovely Mrs. Archer) operate the lock switch while testing the BLK/RED and BLK/YEL wires. They were normally open. At first I tested for 12 Vdc when she operated the switch, but did not get a voltage so I tested for continuity to ground. The BLK/YEL read continuity to ground when the switch was pressed to the lock position. The BLK/RED read continuity to ground when the switch was pressed to the unlock position. I reconnected the timer module and then tested for voltage on the YEL/RED and YEL/BLK wires. There was a constant 12 Vdc output from the timer module on the YEL/BLK wire. This voltage is continuously driving the actuators to the unlock position. It is also a continuous drain on my battery. I disconnected the timer module and left it that way. I can now lock my doors manually. In a week or so I will make a trip to the mainland and to a wrecking yard (Pick-N-Pull) to get a new (used) door lock timer module. I will post again at that time to confirm the problem is resolved.

Hi again. No, not in the fuse panel although Chilton says it is. Two rows of fuses and mounted above the fuse block are three relays. But I could not locate any circuit breakers. Also not in the relay panel under the hood. The relays and fusible links under the hood match the figures in the Chilton manual. However, I have completed testing and am confident the problem is the Door Lock Timer--see my next post, so finding that circuit breaker is a matter of curiosity rather than a necessity at this time. Thank you for your help! You led me to the timer location so I could do the testing. There is a constant 12 Vdc output from the timer that is driving the lock actuators to the unlock position--and draining my battery.

I'm still hoping someone can tell me where the Door Lock Circuit Breaker is located. It is shown in the wiring diagram (see link below), but I am not able to find it. https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3qYZBSJdOoBUFJBZ3E2TkN0QUk

Yes, you are correct. I had concluded that was the Rear Wiper Amplifier based on a figure in my Chilton (see link below), so I didn't bother to remove it. After reading your post, I went out and checked. It is clearly marked as the door lock timer (see second link below). Thank you for your help! https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3qYZBSJdOoBUVhTZTZpWHJlMVE https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3qYZBSJdOoBRDZNdmE1RkN2MzQ

Hi Cuong, Thank you for your reply--very helpful. I opened up the rear left quarter panel and found the ASCD Control Unit and what I think is the Rear Wiper Amplifier. There is also a white block with several connectors...it looks more like a junction block and does not appear to contain any electronic modules that would be a timer unit, but it could be within that block--somewhere. As I was tugging on it to get some of the connectors loose, the door lock actuators cycled, so I'm at the right place. After disconnecting all the connectors, the door lock actuators no longer have 12 Vdc applied to them and I can manually lock and unlock all the doors now, so I don't have to open up each door panel and disconnect each actuator. But I still cannot identify the timer which I suspect is bad and want to replace. I tried to upload some images but received an error message so I am going to include some links that should work as long as the photos are on my cloud drive. This first image is the opened left rear panel. https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3qYZBSJdOoBQ1VlNHMxQlVYWGs This image is a close-up of the ASCD Control. https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3qYZBSJdOoBbm1JWGJnaU1BWTQ This is a close up of the connector block. Is the Timer Unit in this mess? https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3qYZBSJdOoBbWN3ZmZ0VjYxa0E

So I went out to check the switch in the passenger door and I can say without a doubt it is not the problem. There isn't a switch on this door although the Chilton wiring diagram shows one. This should tell you how often I've sat in the passenger seat.

I am trying to fix the power door locks. There is a constant 12 V applied to all four actuators holding them in the unlock position. If I try to manually lock any door, the actuator starts vibrating and pushing pack against the lock knob. I am guessing that for some reason the door lock timer is sending a constant lock signal to the door locks, but I do not know if this indicates the timer is bad or if it is receiving a constant "lock doors" command. I have removed the drivers door lock switch and used a DMM to test it for proper functionality. As I type this, I realize I need to test the switch on the passenger door. I cannot locate the door lock timer or the circuit breaker for the power door locks. My Chilton's says circuit breakers are in the fuse box, but if they are there they are well hidden. Does anyone know where I can find the circuit breaker and/or lock timer? If I cannot find the source of the problem, I can just open each door panel and disconnect the actuators. It would be easier if I can just open the circuit breaker. I would like to find the timer so I can check it's inputs and outputs. Any other ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. 1990 Pathfinder SE 4WD

I was looking for helpful tips for removing the crankshaft pulley. I've used the rope trick on small engines quite often. I had never heard of anyone doing it on a multi-cylinder engine. Thank you for posting that it worked well for you so I will use that tip. I didn't see an answer to your question about LH threads and since you finished the job I assume it isn't. Back to the garage now.

Please ignore this post while I learn how to use html for posting on this forum. href="http://row52.com/home">Row 52</a>

You asked what mods you should make. I may have missed it, but I didn't see anyone mention a better transmission cooler mounted in front of the radiator. Check out this thread for more info: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/8817-changing-auto-tranny-fluid/. In the thread someone mentions using a tranny cooler pulled from an Explorer at a wrecking yard. I like that idea...I get a lot of great parts for my projects and the prices can't be beat. Also pay attention to the post about mounting the cooler so that the outlet is on top to prevent an air bubble from forming in the cooler. Check out Row 52 (https://row52.com/home) for pull-it-yourself yards near you and also Car Part dot com (http://www.car-part.com/index.htm) to find parts available at wrecking yards that pull the part for you. Good luck and happy off-roading.

Great info. I knew I didn't have power at the fuse box for my headlights. I read your post up to the point that talked about the green wire from the fusible link, walked out to my garage, and found that connector had come loose. Problem fixed so I came back in and joined this forum to say thank you.