Marooncobra

I have my old electric fan setup if anyone wants it from my truck VG33E engine version. 16" Craig Davies fan mounted on an aluminium fan shroud that I folded to shape. $100 + shipping if anyone is interested. I had the setup with an on/off switch so I could turn the fan off before fording.

Get yourself an Engineers stethoscope and use the metal probe to touch the compressor, distributor, engine parts. You should be able to locate the noise from where it is coming from this way. The other good thing about an Engineers stethoscope is that you can remove the probe which allows an opening. You can then use this to identify any leaks from hoses by listening to the increased air velocity. A must for all toolboxes.

I had the same problem last week. Turned out to be the sunroof drain was blocked and once the water reached the top of the channel it leaked through the headliner, down the A pillar and into the passenger footwell. Cleared the blockage by removing the passengers side sunvisor and roof handle, prised the headliner away enough to get to the tube and cleared it with an airline. Turned out to be blocked with Gum Nut seeds, I park my car regularly under a Eucalyptus tree.

I just checked mine and its the width of a centre console!

Systemf, I did this mod last year with some JTW S1 Cams, see the following link http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=15422 Don't understand why the moderators pinned it in the 'Garage How To' section as it is specific to the R50. Car is running real good.

The info you need is: Between LH & RH Camshaft sproket timing marks - 40 teeth Between LH Camshaft Sproket and Crankshaft timing marks - 43 teeth

Quite easy. 1. Remove engine bash plate (8 x 10mm bolts). 2. Undo the nuts (17mm) holding the sway bar link to the stabiliser connecting rod. The other ends of the rods are bolted to the suspension struts. If you find whilst undoing these nuts the whole assembly moves place the correct sized spanner to the rear of the stabilising connector rod to prevent them from turning. 3. Check the brackets where the sway bar mounts to the front of the vehicle. You may find paint marks which will assist you in refitting once the bushes are replaced. If no paint, apply some so you can see the correct mounting point. I always have a bottle of secretary's correction fluid in my tool box for jobs just like this. Good for identifying the timing marks on the crankshaft pulley. I digress!!!! 4. Slacken off both sway bar link brackets (3 x 19mm bolts to each bracket). 5. Once loose remove one bracket at a time and slip the new bushes in. If fitting poly bushes lubricate as per manufacturers instructions if req. Retighten bracket ensuring the stabiliser bar is centralised correctly, use paint marks to assit. Re torque bolts to 46 - 65 ft-lb 6. Reconnect stabiliser rods to sway bar link and re torque nuts to 61-76 ft-lb. 7. Refit engine bash plate.

Hi, Just thought I would update all on how much improvement I have noticed since I did my JTW camshaft rebuild, especially as my link has been pinned in the 'How To' of the Garage. Absolutely outstanding!! Power on acceleration is awesome and mid range grunt is mind blowing even on LPG. I wish I had gas flowed the heads when I replaced the exhaust valves for the LPG conversion to tap into some more power. Anyone thinking of doing this mod I recommend you take the heads off whilst you have the oppotunity and flow them babies! I am now looking at re working the air induction. With the 2 inch air intake into the OEM air box and the convuluted way the air enters the plenum chamber (too many right angles) I can see some additional power gains. I will post some pics once I have done some mods. Happy Days

Robbie, With regard to refitting the lifters, you do not have to worry about making sure the oil holes face each other. By their design and in conjunction with the camshaft, they actually rotate each time they operate (30 operations and the lifter would have rotated 360 degrees). This ensures there is even wear across the working faces of the lifters during their life, 80 - 100,000 miles. With regard to my rebuild, what a difference! The acceleration and mid power is extrordinary even on LPG. I wish I had gas flowed my heads when I refitted new exhaust valves for the LPG conversion to tap into some more power. I am now looking at improving the air intake as the 2 inch intake within the air box is very restrictive and the convuluted way in which the air makes it way into the plenum chamber is also power sapping. Hopefully by Xmas I will have sorted this out and will post some pics.

Hi, Are you sure that the new half shafts are identical to the ones you have removed i.e. same length, same dimension for circlip slot? I have replaced half shafts on an old Ford in the past with replacements from a Dealership to find the circlip wouldn't fit. After a lot of frustrated wasted hours I stripped the wheel station down and checked the old one against the new to find the circlip slot was 3mm out!!

Hi, Just like to clear a couple of things up. The distributor is actually driven from the LH Camshaft which in turn is driven by the timing belt via the crankshaft. There is only 1 spark in every cycle, 'induction - compression -'spark' / power - exhaust'. I think you are getting slightly confussed with 2 crankshaft revolutions to 1 camshaft revolution. I do agree with Pathfinder-Rookie and from your photos in that you have an electrical fault. Do you get any spark at all? Did you remove your distributor when changing the timing belt? If you did remove it I would check that you have replaced it in the correct timed position. Reinstall using the workshop manual to aid in lining up the slots on the drive gear of the dizzy. Have you checked that the 2 individual multi pin connectors that go to the dizzy are connected correctly? With regard to the timing mark on the LH Cam sprocket being off by approx 1/2 a tooth (guess from photo) as long as there are 40 teeth between the marks on the camshaft sprockets and 43 teeth from the LH Camshaft sprocket and the timing mark on the crankshaft it will be fine. My LH mark is off by this amount when set up at No 1 TDC. Hope this helps.

One possible reason for the incorrect way of fiiting the belt is that Timing belts when new are multi directional. It is only once they have been used i.e. engine running, that they then become uni directional. The arrow is to help identify which way the belt was fitted once you remove it and you are going to reuse the belt. As for being out of alignment by one tooth I suspect that this is down to the mechanic/DIY man incorrectly fitting the belt. You didn't metion if it was between the cams or the crankshaft where the teeth are out of alignment (between cams 40 teeth, between cam and crankshaft 43). If it is between the cams then that would mean one cam is correct and the other would be out. This would give you an imballance in engine timing as the two cams control 3 cylinders each. If it is between the cam and crank then depending on what the difference was (42 teeth or 44 teeth) it would advance or retard the valve timing by approx 5-6 degrees. Feasible that you would get a power band at a specific rev range but as I suggested earlier sounds like the mechanic/DIY man didn't fit it correctly. With regard to the tension, you will get a bit of difference in the tension as you turn the belt over. It is new and settling in. I tend to turn it over for about 5 minutes to settle it in and then measure the difflection. Hope it helps.

Your PCV is located on the top of the plenum chamber. For ease of directions, as I cannot upload the Adobe drawing from the manual, go to the letter A of NISSAN that is written on the plenum chamber. Below the A is the air vent 10mm bolt for relieving air out of the coolant system. To the right of this is a large rubber hose that is connected to the plenum chamber and then drops down to a tube. The PCV valve is screwed in the plenum chamber here and is connected by that rubber hose to a tube below. To remove, squeeze the clip together with a pair of pliers and pull of the hose. Unscrew the PCV valve and replace with new one. I can not see from your photo if the PCV has a tappered thread or if it is a straight thread and has a fibre washer? You just need to make sure it is sealed to prevent air getting in.

Projekz Don't want to floor it yet as recommended by JTW but you can deffinately feel more torque across the rev range. Brerben I don't know what your skill levels are like when you say 4 out of 10. I am a qualified mechanic although it is not my job now. It comes down to confidence, having the right/good quality tools, time to carryout the job and a mechanical understanding so you know why you are doing a certain process i.e. camshaft endfloat, correct tension on a cam belt, undoing parts in the correct sequence so as not to stress the item or potentially warp it etc. If you think you have the above attributes then you may want to attemp it but it is under your own choice. An engine in open heart surgery does put a lot of people off especially if it is over several days and then you start asking yourself 'where does that part go'.

You are lucky to have the engine out as you won't have the hassle of removing the plenum chamber with the little space that is offered by the fire wall. Answers to your questions: The end float is how much the cam moves backwards and forward in the head. The spec is 0.03 - 0.06 mm. Too little and the cam may seize, too much and the cam will move about and potentially cause damage or excessively wear on the lobes. I ended up having to order two new cam thrust washers from Nissan to give me the correct clearance. You may find that JTW will supply these items as well as I had to wait for Nissan to send them from Japan. Yes I did use new followers (hydraulic lifters) and you must with new cams. If you use the old ones you will chew through the new cam and it will be ruined. Yes I did use assembly lube but only on the high contact areas i.e. cam lobes, hydraulic lifter faces, rocker arm tips. I then use a hand oiler to totally pre lube the valve train.