Grenade

Sorry I meant reground. Make sure that the actual ground lead is double grounded to a good ground position. What's weird is the runs OK the bad when warming up/hot. This makes me believe it's a coolant temp sensor, cylinder head temp sensor, or oxygen sensor or maybe egr. All other sensors are just reading a variation or variables. Nothing temp related. Good luck but I would start with the 3 major. Fuel / compression / spark. You know you have good fuel pressure and spark, well check the timing to make sure its not doing anything wanky. Then verify fuel pressure when misfire studder and any issues. This means an inline gauge you can see while driving. Does this happen only under load or also under idle no load conditions?

I highly doubt the knock \ detonation sensor is your problem. If you look on eBay you can find inexpensive replacements that work just fine. Have you checked your aac valve? This was bad on my 92 and was causing problems for me. If you can pull the harness connector at the front passenger side of the engine to test its easier. It should be 10 ohms. Also rebound your maf. This is almost mandatory with any of these vehicles. Have you confirmed your timing with a timing light?

Look into the agm style from O'Reily auto. Made by deka

13 according to rockauto

Just wanted to report back on how everythings been. Truck runs great. No more misfire or stumble. Cleaning the MAF, Changing the oxygen sensor, and the coolant sensor seem to have gotten rid of any issue's I had. The truck seems to run so smooth I cant tell if its on while at a stop light. I will run some more fuel injector cleaner through the tank and maybe some Berrymans Fuel Injector kit too. If anyone has any stumbling missing hesitation or just plain lack of power check these things out asap. They will haunt you if you dont. Thanks again.

I would look at the MAF or the Oxygen Sensor. Either one of these will cause similar problems. The MAF can only show these problems from 3k rpm plus, but its not to uncommon for it to have idle issues if its dirty. Clean the MAF, then test. Unplug the oxygen sensor, then test. Report back what you find. HTH

One thing I found recently when removing the upper intake. The rear hoses do not need to be removed from the small pipes. You can just lift the intake up, and prop it so that you can reach the injector cap. This may save you time and frustration. HTH

Sounds good. Keep us updated on your findings.

I've got a 1992, so I think my recent findings may help out. Get that injector Cap fixed ASAP. It could be allowing unmetered air into the cylinder, a diflection of injector pattern into the runner, puddling of fuel, ect. Im not positive, but I may have an extra sitting around the garage if you can't find one locally/ebay/junk yard. My 92 was having some issues that kind of mimic what you're describing. I would check all of these in this order. 1.Clean your MAF. Pull the sensor out of the housing, and clean it. 2 screws and 2 minutes of time. 2.Check the resistance of your coolant temp sensor. Measure across the two terminals of the sensor. Here's a chart: 68 degrees......................... 2.10 - 2.90 k ohms 122 degrees....................... 0.68 - 1.00 k ohms 176 degrees....................... 0.30 - 0.33 k ohms 3. You can check your Oxygen Sensor, for voltage but I have found that even tho it show's the correct voltages, it still does not work correctly. Mine would test good, then throw random 33 codes. Took a while to throw them too. I am not at home at the moment, so I can not look at my FSM but I will in a few hours. I replaced mine becusae of the symptoms I was having, plus the random 33 code that would show. Both of these sensors deal with fuel and the delivlery. I having a bad stumble, hesitation, and overall loss of power and when I replaced these two, it cleared itself up. I got my Temperature Sensor from Ebay, as well as my Oxygen Sensor. Temp: http://www.ebay.com/itm/251124807703?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Oxygen: http://www.ebay.com/itm/300970435107?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT I hope this helps, as when I did swap my two sensors, and clean my MAF the results were tremendious.

Well over the weekend I got both of these sensors (Oxygen and Coolant Temp) changed out. Huge difference. At the same time I cleaned out the MAF and that helped out quite a bit too. I am going to do some more cleaning of the sensor tonight (I didnt pull it off the housing, just sprayed the cleaner into the ports) by removing it completly from the housing (like the how to) I will report back and let everyone know how it goes. The truck ran for about 30 minutes with out a total loss of power/missing but something is still not right. I feel like its down on power somewhat still but I have not taken it out for a major drive since I cleaned the MAF.

Did you ever solve this? If not I can check my factory service manual and let you know the color code

Got it. I'll check this out

When you say I can just unplug it to test it, what would the symptoms be? I've been working on looking this over again today and on a hunch I decided lay night to order a new Bosch oxygen sensor and an oem temp sensor last night. Well today during some more trouble shooting I found that maybe the temp sensor is goofy. Also I unplugged the O2 sensor and the truck kind of cleared up but was still a little stumbly. Also, I now have a 33 code on the computer so I am thinking all my issues may relate to the oxygen sensor. I'll replace both of them and report back. Thanks again fellas.

I forgot to put in my original post that I have checked the maf and it is within factory service manual specs. I also have added a ground wire to the harness to help with the recap issue. I had not cleaned it because it looked clean when I did the swap. I will double check tomorrow.

All the injectors were resistance tested before the swap. They all were right at 12.5 ohms. Other than a "balance" test by unplugging each one to see if they cause the engine to slow down is there anything I can do?