rickpyle13

Was very low on fluid, added close to a gallon. Still didn't change my gear changing problem. Another symptom to note, it currently idles forward while in N, just like it were in D. Transmission cable linkage looks good, will check connectors next.

Okay, will check back in tomorrow, thanks Kingman.

Will check in the morning, hey I was thinking about this today; for an accurate tranny fluid check, do I warm the vehicle up first, or check it when cold?

So it's not my brakes. I jacked it up and put it on reverse, the wheels didn't spin. Took the wheels off, my drums didn't spin.Took my drums off, and my stud flanges still didn't spin. But yet again, putting it into drive they spin just fine. Anyone know why drive works just fine, but reverse gets locked up?

Also, I haven't tried to move it too much right now,but driving forward seems to be much less affected, if at all.

So my idle is fixed i think. Now my problem is when I try to back it up, it won't move until half throttle, then jerks backward. My brake shoes had chatter marks but I can spin the wheels by hand if they aee off the ground. Did I do my brakes incorrectly?

I've got a high idle, although I did put my stock airbox back on it and I think it had helped, need to get back to it later and check a couple of things.

Hey guys, I finished transplanting an engine into my 96r50, and I'm almost ready to be taking it to the street. Currently, I think I'm having an idle issue, that I don't know if it's affecting my one other problem, bank 1 sensor 2 o2 sensor code. I messed with the idle screw/IAC thing, and at the moment it's screwed in clockwise as far as it will go, and I'm still not satisfied with my idle. I also don't appear to be having any vacuum leaks. Anyone have any pointers?

Well how do you know air is getting past your rings and not escaping through a valve?

Definitely right, it's an alignment problem. Unfortunately the whole time I've been doing this on a gravel driveway that has a slight slope to it, with a panel of board underneath to work with. Sure I'd love to be doing this in a garage with a lift and level concrete but not so lucky. Plus I'm 1-manning it for the most part.

Yes there's definitely some play, I can pull up and down on the front of the engine and it'll tilt accordingly, but I still was unable to get it lined up. My aim at this point is to get it to the point where I'm only dealing with the transmission, nothing else in my way.

Got myself a torch, got the front drive shaft set aside after a number of heat/pb treatments. A couple more transfer case bolts, looks like one or two more before it comes off.

So my progress this weekend; I started by removing the rear drive shaft, exhaust between the muffler and the exhaust manifolds, and undoing the transfer case shift linkage yesterday. Today I worked on the transfer case to transmission bolts, drained the TC and almost dropped the whole thing on myself. My next problem is the fact I can't get the bolts on the front drive shaft undone. Pb blasted it a couple times, soaked it for the night; if that doesn't work I'll have to resort to using a heat gun or propane torch I guess.

It's an automagic I'm dealing with, thanks Kingman that was not something I knew to begin with, although the torque converter is indeed inside the bell housing. I've got the trans on two jacks so I can raise one or the other for tilt action. Maybe I will try some more before I take the TC and fds off, thanks guys.

Yes my original post was something that trickled into my mind after not being able to get this thing together. Motor mounts are good, I've got two jacks under the tranny at the moment. Yeah I'm sure insertion angle could be helped, not positive if rotating input shaft will do it. What do you mean as alignment pins? When you say that I think of the bell housing and block dowel holes. If that's the case yes they are line up well just away from each other the better part of an inch. LOL I love that description.