Goosevf_1

So this morning I put in the nenew distributor. Timing was way out so I put it where it needed to be. Finding a diagram with proper timing mark lables was tough but I think I determined I have 7 marks. Meaning -5 0 5 10 15 20 and 25. Set it to 15 based on that. Engine sounds like it's idling a bit rougher than it did before the changes but it seemed to start better. It had been running for a bit so it may be just warming up, and usually the problem is less apparent when it's warm. Interesting thing that happend after I timed it, now as I push the accelerator, the CEL comes on. But only while I'm pushing the pedal. Ideas anyone? Ecm codes came back 55

Are you kidding? I wouldnt be able to drive 45 minutes to go snowboarding! I like my snow, when I have a vehicle that likes it as much as me lol

I found the thread last night. Looks like a fresh distributor fixed his issues. Ill update on the weekend as thats the soonest I can make it to the wreckers. Thanks fellas, hopefully this phantom issue will be resolved after several months of trying lol.

Hello everybody! You may remember a couple mon the ago I made a post, trying to sort out a starting issue. The truck runs well, but has a very hard time starting while cold. Well, as it dips in the -10-20 degree celciis range, I wanted to to trying it again. It seems to have gotten worse. The truck has been parked all summer trying to figure this thing out. Today I replace the ignition coil, voltage regulator, cap, rotor, ignition wires and egr valves. When I tried to start it, no change, still hard to go, tries to cough and sputter. When I let go of the starter, it kicked back the other way and tried to run back wards for a few seconds and smokes out the intake. Any ideas on what to try here? Thanks.

I know a lot of places in western canada that are know as "Crown Land," that are simply sections of land that are owned solely by the country. These are not parks, they do not require land use permits or tolls. You can simply enter with any vehicle that has valid registration and spend as long as you want, doing almost whatever you want. There are at least 3 of these terrain parks within 2 hours driving from my house. Very convenient and relatively well kept by the people that use them.

After the skid plate and the oil filter is off, you can snake the starter through the front of the truck. Be sure to unplug the oil pressure sending unit wire as that is part of the harness running the the starter. Just pinch and pull. After that, and you remove the harness adele clamps (there are two) you can wiggle the starter out with the harness attached which I found way easier than trying to unhook while installed. Its a tight fit but itll come, took me 10 minutes of holding my tongue at just the right angle.

After the skid plate and the oil filter is off, you can snake the starter through the front of the truck. Be sure to unplug the oil pressure sending unit wire as that is part of the harness running the the starter. Just pinch and pull. After that, and you remove the harness adele clamps (there are two) you can wiggle the starter out with the harness attached which I found way easier than trying to unhook while installed. Its a tight fit but itll come, took me 10 minutes of holding my tongue at just the right angle.

I really considered importing a terrano to have something half this clean. Its incredible that something that old and prone to rust can look so good. Congrats man.

Well, I got all motivated on sunday and decided to pull the intake manifold to check fuel injectors, clean off the engine to be able to check the rest of the plugs and look at the IACV. In my adventures, I noticed a couple of things that I thought I would share and hopefully provide some insight. 1. the IACV was relatively clean. It looked dusty, as if it were a fine carbon soot in the orifices, but it did not look gummed up or clogged. I will clean it all out and re-install. I do not believe this is my issue. 2. When releasing fuel pressure, I started it (hesistant and hard as usual) then pulled the fuel pump fuse. The truck immediately lost RPM's and died within 3-5 seconds. I thought it should take longer but I could be mistaken. When I changed the filter previously, I pulled the fuse before attempting to start. With the fuse out it would not even think about starting and there was 0 pressure when I took the filter out. Im beginning to wonder if the fuel pump is having troubles keeping up. I have not had enough chance on the road to see if it is loosing power on hills or heavy acceleration. A pressure check is in order but we will see. I did check pressure very vaguely through the fsm procedure, (pinch the line) and it built pressure instantaneously when key turned to on. 3 days on non running later, it felt as if it were back to zero. 3. The pcv vaccum hose, once removed from manifold side looks like this. I dont know if it should be this gummed up. I will be cleaning the manifold thouroughly before re-installation but does anyone believe this could be the culprit? Any help is always appreciated. Cheers Gents

If you havent found a solution to your fuel sender yet, you can check it with a multimeter. Messure the resistance throught the range of travel. A good start is if it changes smoothly or quite irradically. If the number is jumping around a wide range its probably no good, or your voltmeter has a bad connection, if its smooth thats a good sign. To dive further into that, check the FSM in the garage section for the resistance specs of the unit. If its out of spec, time for a new pump!

If anti sieze can stand up to the heat of a spark plug, why wouldnt it work for head studs?

Yeah man. Just need to put a better hu in and then she'll be just right. Its ways satisfying when you get something accomplished. Especially something that's been giving you trouble. This truck will never be "done" she'll always have a snag to fix or a part to upgrade as long as I own it lol

Update: The issue, as all of you mentioned, it was the factory amps. Just did a quick bypass (no caps yet) just to see if it would work and viola. The deck could obvioulsy be upgraded for better clarity and output. The caps will get installed inline to clear up the tweeters. But for now, the sub actually souds like a sub and all is well. Thanks for the help gentlemen, much appreciated.

Im running rcas from the rear pre-outs on the deck. Yes my brothers deck has sub outs. I played with the settings on the amp and nothing was working. It was almost as if it had nothing to give. no adjustment made any significant difference. I have a strong feeling its the deck and its lack of sub settings and pre outs. Im going to bypass the amps tonight just because. If that helps great, if not then at least its done and Ill have more room to play by the sounds of it. If I get really bored, I may just re-wire the whole speaker set up but we'll see if I can carry that ambition lol. At the very least Ill do the bypass.

Without the sub and amp installed the system sounded very good after I installed speakers as well and all I swapped were the door speakers to jbl. I just can't think of why it would matter. I have a strong feeling it's the deck. I think it isn't built for a sub. Instead of sub pre outs it has rear pre outs. I dont think it's getting a proper signal. It's getting the rear speaker signal and it can't play those frequencies. That's the best I can come up with.