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LogansPathy

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  • Your Pathfinder Info
    White, chrome trim, legos, 4x4, autotragic, rear LSD, leather interior, heated seats, power mirrors, power door locks, moonroof, factory nerf bars, tow hitch, roof rack and fog lights
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
    30-35
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Rarely Go Off-Road
  • Model
    XE
  • Year
    1993

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Santa Cruz, CA
  • Country
    United States

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  1. Thanks for the info! I figured some of what you had said, but I'm relieved to hear that it *likely* won't make the vehicle undriveable. I will do some replacement of parts in about 6 months if the truck will last that long. As mentioned prior, I've not had the truck long and having just moved twice and with very limited funds, all I can do is drive it and hope for the best for now. When I do go to replace the 3rd member (assuming it's just that), does anyone make something new? I hate to get a used one just to have it go bad on me soon after and waste all the time and materials to boot.
  2. Hey, guys! I searched the forums for answers and they were across the board from bushings, to shock absorbers, to diff fluid, to prop shaft stuff so I was hoping that someone who's had this issue specifically might read this and have a more specific idea than the wide range I have so far. I bought my 93 pathy in June. Within a couple of days I had this same issue. What it is is a low groaning noise coupled with vibration while I am performing a tight turn (which, with the crappy turning radius our trucks have is just about every turn that happens in city limits off a major highway). I believe the noise is coming from the rear end.The 4wd is not activated. I have factory automatic hubs. I do have LSD and in June changed the fluid and made sure to put in the LSD additive and it seemed to take care of the problem. Then I drove it from California to Texas and all was good until the beginning of September when the noise gradually started coming back. So, I checked the fluid and it's fine, even added a little for peace of mind and added some more LSD additive, mainly because I have a small leak at the seal where the prop shaft goes into the diff (but not all of it, because the container warns not to over treat). Putting in more additive seemed to make a small difference, but not for long. A little over a week ago I drove from Texas to Seattle and now the noise is as bad as it's ever been. Lots of tight turns here, though, which I suspect is accelerating or further exposing whatever the issue is. Now, I have about $200 to my name, no place to work on my truck (though I could probably find a place to change the diff oil again, though I'd rather not waste $50 plus doing it if it's not the issue), it rains here A LOT and I'm quite concerned that perhaps sooner than later the rear end will lock up and leave me stranded, which would be a death blow for me. At this point, I don't know if I can get away with driving it the way it is for a few months until I can get some cash together, or if I should try to part it out (only 137k on the damn thing!) so I can get money for something else. I love the truck, have invested a bit of time and money into it already, and it has served me well, but if the rear diff locks and the truck is towed, I'm screwed. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance!
  3. Here are some interior pics (rough, I know): I was going to redo the vinyl on the door cards, but I think I am going to try my hand as plasti-dip instead and do a few other parts of the vehicle while I'm at it. Wish me luck!
  4. Here is the nasty liftgate stuff I mentioned above: I'm guessing some kind of damage occured to the liftgate and spare carrier since the liftgate has been swapped out and the spare carrier looks bent, but I image it wasn't too bad because the rear apron looks undisturbed and aside from the corner being dented in, the rear bumper looks original/ok as well.
  5. Hey, again, guys! So, I ran the A/T diagostic per the FSM and luckily got revolution sensor malfunction. With no real testing equipment, I figured I'd nab one from the JY and see if it fixes the problem (since new ones are $100 plus). Anyone see any issues with this? Regarding the liftgate, there's not much that can be done to fix it past replacement. I know a used one was put on the vehicle because (aside from crappy install/alignment) it is badged as an SE, but the VIN scrub and Carfax show mine is actually an XE. I work for a body shop so I see what is within the realm of repair and everything else which falls in the realm of replace. The liftgate is definitely in the replace realm, so it's on my list. Sorry again about not having pics. Been busy with other stuff, but will try again tomorrow since we all know threads are worthless without them.
  6. Thanks for the replies, guys! The timing belt was done about a year ago. I lucked out with this particular vehicle because the guy I bought it from is a manager at a Goodyear tire shop. He did the brakes, fuel pump, timing belt, starter and tires all in the last two years since they've owned it. I went ahead and did the rear diff fluid today. I ended up using Lucas 80-90w and a bottle of Redline LSD additive. The noises are gone so I think that may have done the trick, but the pumpkin and surrounding areas were quite dirty w/ oil so I am thinking the seal where the prop shaft goes into the pumpkin may need replacing. Regarding the U-joints: how can I tell if they are bad? And, are they a bolt on affair that I should get new from the dealer when I order my exhaust manifold stud upgrades and steering lock anti rub caps? There definately is some lag/play going on reminiscent of when my Tahoe's U-joints were crapped out. Did some cleaning today and a first shake down to see what all needs to be addressed and in what order. Here is the list: -passenger rear door opens from the inside, but not the outside -driver rear door lock solenoid is toast and needs replacing -vinyl on the top of the two front door cards is beyond tattered. Will replace it this coming weekend with new, black, foam backed goodness. -all windows need some kind of attention due to rattling when closing the door, going crooked while rolling them up or down, and one for rolling up very slowly. Will open the doors up and see about adjusting, lubing, and tightening where necessary. -strange thing happening with the door locks where I unlock the vehicle with the factory keyless entry remote, pull on the passenger front door handle to open the door, and all the locks re-engauge. -center console is missing the lid/armrest section -passenger side heated seat switch is missing the rocker part of the switch and the usual knobs are missing from the radio (will nab some from the junkyard and glue them on per your recommendation in threads I've read) -liftgate has been replaced and poorly installed such that the alignment is just horrible and due to the twisting occuring when latch engauges with the catch and pulls toward the right, it appears that the inner and outer sheet metal sections of the liftgate are separated in the driver side upper corner. I think I'll probably leave it alone for now and wait to find a clean, same colored liftgate to replace it with. -liftgate and liftgate glass struts are blown And the last big one I probably want to sort out before anything else is the "Power" light doing the caution illumination sequence of solid for two seconds, followed by blinking for 8 seconds. The truck seems to be driving fine, shifting gears normally so I'm not sure what is wrong, but I will read up on it here and consult the factory repair manual to see if I can figure it out. I know I promised pics, but I finished too late to take them today. So, perhaps tomorrow I will be able to get some to share with you guys. Thanks again for all your help and the warm welcome!
  7. Hello, everyone! Been lurking for a couple of weeks to see if I wanted to come to the dark side and get a Pathy. I have already found lots of answers to questions I've had and want to thank you all for the excellent info you have provided. Today I picked up my first Pathfinder. Never thought I'd get one of these, but in hindsight it seems it was inevitable. I've always loved the box shaped cars and have owned a few examples (2nd gen VW GTI, E30 BMW, chevy tahoe). However, after owning a Chevy Tahoe and Toyota Tundra in the past, the WD21 Pathy didn't seem like it would ever be on the list for consideration. But, in searching for a hardbody, I came to learn that the Pathy is essentially a hardbody with a camper shell on it, but can seat 4 and your stuff doesn't get wet or stolen like it does from a pickup bed. It also offers more creature comforts, but no cupholders. I haven't named the new Pathy yet. Gotta see what kind of character he has, but in the meantime I'll give some specs and ask a few questions. 1993 XE 4x4 Automatic w/ 126k on the clock -Nissan factory hitch, fog lamps, roof rack, side step bars -Power mirrors & locks, seat heaters, leather interior -Rear LSD and Lego wheels -Chrome bumpers, grille, and mirrors -Moon roof (with cover!) and spare carrier One issue I need to address immediately is the rear diff. I believe it needs new fluid (at the least). I know it's an LSD because it has the telltale orange sticker about LSD fluid, so does that make it a H223B? Where is that marked on the pumpkin? Also, I read the owner's manual and a few posts here about the oil, so I know it takes APL GL-5 SAE 80W90, but does matter which brand or whether it's synthetic or not past personal preference? I know a lot of marketing goes on with vehicle fluids, so mainly I just want to avoid any products people have had issues with. Also, I know I need to add friction modifier. All the local store has is the Redline brand. Is it up to stuff? I hope changing this fluid will take care of the clunk and humming I hear from the rear end while turning at low speed. I also have the typical exhaust leak at the manifold, so 300z studs will be put in as soon as they get here. I'll take some pics tomorrow once I have a chance to clean him up, but so far I'm stoked on the purchase! Cheers, Logan
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