pepperjack26

Nothing new for a while. Snow/sun/slush. This one looks like it is saying goodbye

I felt someone needed to see this. New Frontier, New Maxima, my 2000 R50, look carefully (side mirror) sneaky WD21?

I'm a fan of the dip for emblems. Everything black. I did my flares, bumpers and grill 3 years ago. Also covered the ugly red surround on the tail lights. Removed the plastic from the vehicle, dipped each piece with about 8 coats black and 3 coats of glossifier. After 3 years, the rear bumper has a few spots that are starting to lighten, and the front had the same - before I removed it for good. A few drip marks on the flares from when an attendant dripped fuel on it (not thrilled), but it did hold up very well. Applied properly it is very good - even on chrome.

I ran over (through) a snowbank at work. It was larger and more dense than it looked. Cracked bumper cover. Now I want/need something steel. Plastic skid plate is fine - but I'll likely upgrade that as well. Snow packed into the lower bumper, lights, grille parts. Zip tie repair for now.

Regarding the General: xoverland.com ran 2 overland series with the grabber AT2 starting up in Alaska and heading all the way down to central America. 2 overland trips on those tires should attest to their quality. General tire is one of their sponsors also, but I would say they put them to the test. Price-wise, the General is less than the BFG, I don't believe there are too many differences. I'd run the AT2 if they came in the size I plan to purchase next.

I left mine in the parking lot at work all day - 12 hours. Then I took it to an abandoned mall parking lot for a little fun on the way home.

I did similar setup to r50, but up a slot. My front license plate is off so I placed it behind that location. 2000 model, like yours. Mounted directly to bottom of the steel bumper, behind the plastic cover. Didn't even have to cut the plastic - though I did remove it to do the work. 20". I didn't post a picture here like I should have, just in my build thread. Can still install the license plate if needed, been 6+ months without it though. Recently used my pathfinder to haul gravel - inside. I have a rubber cut-to-fit weathertech cargo mat, Home Depot plastic containers, a 5-gal bucket (scoop), and a shovel. 500 lbs at a time from a local gravel company (so like a $2 trip), moved over 2 tons. Re-leveled part of my driveway before winter - so the Pathfinder can sit level.

I have had my spacers - both front and rear - for over a year. Installed them at the same time as my OME lift coils, KYB struts, and OME Nitro Charger Shocks. my lift is between 2 and 3 inches. OME equates around .75" over stock, and 1.5" spacers (Fleurys) level me out. I'd do it again if I was starting new. Rear max I will leave to others with SFD+.

On a daily basis I see at least 4 R50s. 3 on the 10.3 mile drive to work, 1 parked 2 blocks down the street from work, and 1 at a local equipment rental business I pass. One of our customers has 3 Pathfinders (2 R50, 1 R51). I do see a WD from time to time, and a couple Frontys as well. Enterprise car rental 2 blocks away usually has a new Pathfinder, Frontier, and some sedans. Funny you mention "PassRodeos" FR, my Pathfinder sits beside my 93 Rodeo in my driveway, and I have a neighbor with the same series Rodeo as mine. No Pathfinders near my house, but there are a few X's - but not Pro4x.

Random thought: I see "PITTSB"(urgh) tool. Makes me think Harbor Freight. Check any tools you may have used - maybe a pin fell out of a jack or support tool.

My .02: I chose the easy way out and had my mechanic install the front springs (OME) on my KYB struts and the Fleurys spacers (1.5") at once - and align. He sourced the camber bolts - at no cost to me - as part of the alignment and front suspension install cost. Glad I had him do it, as he had to order two different sets to finally get the camber correct. Fortunately he can work on my car while I am at work. My Pathfinder is my daily driver. Not that I wouldn't want to deal with camber myself... I just do not have the equipment or proper location to do the work.

Platinum, but have only had them in for 3k miles. No complaints, don't remember what was in there before.

Apparently I did not take as many pictures as I remember taking but... (Rear sway bar removed completely already) I backed mine up on ramps (Metal or plastic whatever), jacked up a little more (floor jack) and used jack stands at the rear jack points right in front of the trailing arms, removed the wheel and then the ramp (on the side I was working), Lowered (via floor jack) axle to shock extension, disconnected shock, and lowered until very near brake line max. At this point, I was able to remove the spring with little effort and replace. My first replacement was for the OME lift springs which were oddly shorter than the factory ones, but with more coils. Later, I went back and did the same thing to add Fleurys 1.5" spacers. Same process when I installed the spacers, but I staggered the ramps, front right and rear left when I did the rear right spring/spacers, opposite for other. Spring only examples: When doing spacers - notice the ramps opposing side - help twist entire vehicle and rear axle more - helped me: front view: Put my spacers on the top, then swapped them to the bottom. Either/both work. Prefer the bottom. Yes, I painted mine, they hold paint - unless impacted, then it chips off - just liked the darker look - not the white sticking out.

When was your fuel filter replaced last? If original, you could replace that for a low price. We had a similar issue with one of our delivery vehicles at work.

I did the manual locking hubs in the front before I did any lift. Saves drive train drag and a little fuel also. Many have installed them and kept the factory wheels - hub covers may need to be modified, or left off. I was fortunate enough with my factory 2000 wheels the hubs fit under the center covers - so I could actually "hide" my hubs. Others have modified them and it looks great! My 4x4 selector is an actual shift lever, so I have complete manual control of the 4x4. If you have the selector knob or 4x4-auto, it may be a different story. In my experience, the difference when using 4x4 is just having to lock in the hubs outside before shifting inside.