bakon

Sometimes the headgasket can actually be broken, where the coolant will get into the cylinders and not the oil. Usually when that happens you usually hydro lock the motor since water can't really be compressed or combusted hehe which is what it sounds like it in your case. Same thing happened to me in my '86 200sx. The dude I bought it from said he changed the water pump, never hooked up the temp gauge, and since it was a electronic dashboard, I didn't even notice the car not getting signal from the temp gauge. All I had to do was just pop the heads get them machined, changed the hg, and cleaned out coolant from anywhere it wasn't suppose to be.

Im at about the same with my 4x4 auto '95 XE, It is the LSD rear end model as well, shes also very shift happy as well hehe.

Mine never goes over 1/4. Driving in the winter though my blower still blows hot air, even on the highway. I'm pretty sure its just too cold of a thermo for winter. I'll know when it gets warmer around my parts though he he.

Hey guys Sorry to resurrect and old thread. But recently Iv been playing with my vss, and even posted on here about it. But I realized I have the same problem as here. I got the speed sensor cel, so I ordered a new one that came with out the gear. I know I'm suppose to have an electronic speed sensor in my car, cause I took my gauge cluster off to check, but when I went under the car to switch them, I noticed I have a cable driven sensor in there with the blue gear on it, which should be the right one for my tire size. My question is, instead of ordering a new gear, I know I can't take the old gear off the splines by it self, but can I just pull the shaft that has the gear on it and swap them? Thanks for the help, Mike

Since I got my '95 pathy, the speedometer didn't work, nor did the trip or milage meter. So I figured it was the clusters fault. About a week ago my engine code came on, so I diagnosed it and it is the vehicle speed sensor code. So now I some what know why my speedo gauge doesn't work. My question is,my car likes to rev pretty high before it shifts and it loves to over dramatically down shift. I know I have the power et auto mode button thing on the left side, but I keep that off, but even with it on the cars behavior is the same. Could the speed sensor cel have anything to do with my high shifting and crazy downshifting?. And it does shift really smooth, it almost feels like my car is stuck is some tow mode or something he he.

FYI, The extra 24in wire is just connected to the stock ecu grounding wire pin inside the plug. If you were going to make one of these at home, you would want to attach an extra grounding wire to the stock grounding wire as close to the connector as you possibly.

Well I was correct, the whistling sound is coming from the inside of my TB, gotta clean it up so it closes properly hehe. But yeah other then that, the car runs super strong, didnt even have to compenste with the distributor . Thanks for the responses and help.

So I hooked everything up, and the car started right up. I have a weird whistling noise, I looked it up and found its usualy the timing belt being too tigh, I at this point still think its somewhere from my intake area will investigate, I guess worst case Il tke it part again and relese some tensions heh. Good news the high rpm and gas smell is gone, I didnt even touch the distributor yet, and she drives great. One more question, I notiecd this truck has some weird cylinder thing for the rear brakes in the back. Is i safe to just get rid of that and relace it with a simple t-splitter? cause it just spells trouble, as I have to bleed my rear brakes anyways.

Hey guys, thanks for the responses, any insight definitly helps, Im about to finish this project up today . Actualy thats exactly why I made this post thinking Im mising something, cause it ran so well, other then the fact that it smelled like it was dumping raw gas and idled at like 1200-1300rpm before and after warmup. Actually I'm glad you mnetioned that, cause one of my family members at xmas said the exact same thing yesterday, so I went to the garage quicklty to check something, and the dizzy is definitly clocked all the way to one side, not somewhere towards the middle like most older Datsun I did timing on before.

Thank you for the quick response precise. My keyway is fine, one of the first things I checked when I got my harmonic balancer off. I guess what really throws me off that like mentioned, other then running rich and idling at 1200rpm, the car ran fine before I tore into this. Only reason I know that my crank is off by three theeth is because when I counted the marks from LH gear to my crank gear mark I only had 40 teeth, and the mark on the crank gear is also pointing to 3o'clock not around 530 like it should.

Thanks for the quick reply. Im definitly going to do that. Im not going to be able to put everything back together for a day or two, but is it possible being three teeth off and still run, yes it was super rich and idled at about 1200rpm, but other than that everything ran pretty smoothly. Im just used to motors running like crap being a tooth off hehe.

Hey guys, I am new to this forum but not new to Datsuns, mostly owend some 510's, and the older type. Anyways my quick questoin is, I got this 95 Pathy and I am doing the timing belt on. The problem I run into is, the car ran fine right before I started the timing belt, except it was pretty rich. So as I get all the parts off and get to the belt, I notice my Cam sprocket marks line up and I have 40 teeth between the left and right cam timing marks, and dizzy points to #1 plug, but from my LH sprocket mark to my crank mark I only have 40 teeth as well not 43, and the timing mark on the crank sprokect is pointintg to 3o'clock not 530 like the posts on here indicated, and also the piston screwdriver test does show that the piston is not compltetly at TDC. So my question is, obviously Im three teeth off on the crank mark. I am not sure how long this has been like this(Sticker shows last timing job in 1997), and other then running rich the car ran fine, and it didnt make any noises or anything from the valve train, since Im not sure being 3 teeth off could damage valves or anything? And is it as easy as turning the crank by it self three teeth over so everything lines up to fix this problem? Thanks and Merry Christmas, Mike