schrocketeer

How do I get a manual hub un-stuck? The left hub won't rotate over to "lock" from "free". Even being gentle with a pair of channel-locks, all that was going to happen was the rubber middle was going to tear. The right hub twists between "free" and "lock" easily, by hand. No, I did not drive it with one hub locked, and the other free. The transaxle shifts easily between 2Hi, 4Hi, and 4Lo. No, I did not drive in 4Hi or 4Lo with the hubs not locked. One suggestion I was given was to undo the allen/hex bolts and pull the hub, then squirt some penetrating oil in there. The idea was that some grease had gotten dry and hard in there. It had a least two years of sitting by me, and I don't how long it had been since the previous owner drove it, and how long since he engaged the front drive.

My '87 has 332k miles on the 2.4L, z24i. My sons and I put a new head on it around 2400 miles ago. The previous owner said he had the tranny rebuilt at 150k miles. In my last couple of months of work commuting (lotsa highway miles), I am averaging 19mpg.

Something goofy in the timing, but yes, we did have it run today!!! Thanks for this group's help for all the hints. :-)

How do I correctly line up the oil pump shaft that links to the distributor? Today my son and I disconnected the bolts at the base of the distributor, to see if we could get it to run. It seems to run fine at around 40 After TDC on cylinder #1. Very satisfying to hear it run on its own after being down for almost 2 years. It seems to be a five handed job to line up the shared shaft (with a twist for the helical gear on the crankshaft worm gear) with the slot in the oil pump, the distributor base bolting to the block, and the rotors.

No sign (or smell) of the injectors working. When I lifted the throttle body off there was some liquid underneath. I'm not sure if it was gas that had come through the injectors, or Sea Foam that I had poured in to the throttle body hoping it would get to somewhere helpful. Until yesterday I didn't understand the injectors were pointing down, directly underneath the rounded silver cover. I have sprayed starting fluid past the opened butterfly. Still no hint of firing.

My boys and I finally got all of the pieces back together on our 87 Pathfinder 4wd with a z24i, and hit the key, starter turns, and no firing. No barks, coughs, or sputters. :-( 6 gallons of 91 octane, no ethanol fuel as of last Tuesday. We had dropped and rinsed the tank a few weeks ago. Fuel gauge shows 1/4 tank. Fuel to the throttle body - I took the hose off and had gas spray when my helper hit the starter. Spark out of both coils and at all eight spark plugs. New spark plugs last week. We did take the distributor off during our work. We had the rotor to have #1 intake firing. When we put the head on, we did line up the two silver links with cylinder #1 at TDC on compression stroke. New battery as of Saturday. I thought the injectors might be plugged. I tried pulling the throttle body from the intake manifold to squirt carb cleaner up in to the injectors. Not sure how effective that was. When I bought it in April 2012, I did hear it run for maybe 10 seconds. Could the injectors have gotten clogged sitting that long?

Yeah, it's just (vehicle) forward of the intake manifold. It's even on a different plane than the intake manifold. My son made a cover out of some plate metal we had lying around. We put some permatex RTV around the edge. We had to modify (slot out) one of the brackets (power steering?) that attached to it. This forum has been a great help as I've been working on this project with my sons! Thanks for the help. :-)

Thanks for the part description above, Alkorahil. My mistake for not describing the hole better. As I have surfed around, it appears the hole is for where there used to be a mechanical fuel pump.

I've got an '87 w/ z24i engine. I got a rebuilt head from Advance Auto. The old head had a blocked port on the front of the intake side. The new head has a hole in it. Any idea where I can find a cover to go in the place?

Thanks for the great tips! and yes, will focus on cleaning out cooling system, and replace the thermostat. The whole reason I got the deal on it, that I did, was because of a cracked head. Over cylinder #4, the head was all clean. Guess was a cooling system problem and the antifreeze sprayed out the cylinder. I heard it kind of run for ~10 seconds before I bought it. Definitely mis-firing.

Now that I finally have the front cover off, I can get to the timing chain and tensioner, so I can de-tension to put the new head on. I bought a rebuilt head from Advance Auto with valves, cam, etc. in place. What prep do I need to do to the block before I starting cranking down the head bolts, and crush that fancy gasket? I have NOT kept the headless block in pristine condition. Life happened, I moved the pathfinder to the new place in the country, and am just ready to start putting pieces back together 18 months later.

There were three bolts I had not disconnected. Once I saw the micro-fiche of the parts, I could see where to look. Some others may find the engine break down useful: http://www.nissanpartszone.com/Page_Product/PartDetail.aspx?ModelName=Pathfinder&ModelYear=1987&ModelSeries=WD21&FileType=277&SelectConditions=%282%3dZ24I%3b3%3dDX%3b4%3dMT.F5%3b5%3d4WD%3b6%3d2D%3b7%3dFED%3b%29&ShowConditions=%282%3dZ24I%3b7%3dFED%3b%29&seeDesc=False&goBack=True&SectionNo=A&ComponentsNo=135 Thanks for the help :-)

So the front cover bolts are off, the front 6 or so bolts are also off the front side of the oil pan. I tappws the front cover at various locations with a 1"x1" wood piece and a claw hammer and. . .nothing happens. The picture at http://www.nissanpartszone.com/Page_Product/PartDetail.aspx?ModelName=Pathfinder&ModelYear=1987&ModelSeries=WD21&FileType=277&SelectConditions=%282%3dZ24I%3b3%3dDX%3b4%3dMT.F5%3b5%3d4WD%3b6%3d2D%3b7%3dFED%3b%29&ShowConditions=%282%3dZ24I%3b7%3dFED%3b%29&seeDesc=False&goBack=True&SectionNo=A&ComponentsNo=135 makes it seem like I did not to even take the front oil pan bolts off. This afternoon I sprayed pb-blaster around the front cover seal area. Any hints? BTW, my 87 has probably never had this cover off before.

I've got an 87 Pathfinder with a z24i engine. I need to de-tension the timing chain tensioner. To get to it, I have to take off the front cover. My Clymer/Chilton manual says I have to remove the oil pan to get the front cover off. It also says to remove the oil pan, I have to remove the front differential. Please tell me there's an easier way.