SC1

Ok, so after looking around I found this diagram: Diagram Colors are: On the Vehicle - Single wire plug white, three wire plug 1 black, 1black pink stripe, one black white stripe, black seems to be NUL. The New O2 has black red white, white Sensor, red 12volt, black ground. The old has four wires although the blue seems to be NUL. Can anyone clarify this hook up? The diagram isnt too clear on whats ground, 12v, and sensor. I'm figuring White is sensor, Black/Pink is ground and black white is 12volt. Ideas? Thanks UPDATE So after some time with the multi meter, White is signal to the computer, Black/white strip is 12volt, Black/pink strip is ground, Black in the same plug is NUL.

Well, I'm trying to figure out the wiring on the O2 Sensor on the 87, trying to figure out what the 4 wires at the plugs are. I know the Black single plug is the signal from the O2, and presuming two of the three wire plug are for the heated, but would like to know what one is NUL as there is only three wires at the sensor itself. If anyone knows for sure what the four colors are for, or has a decent diagram ( my Haynes isn't showing this circuit) thay can share, that would be awsome. Thanks

So, was doing some tuning up on the pathy, wanted to replace the O2 sensor and seem to recall someone posting a part # for a universal for the 87's that was alot cheaper then the exact match one. Does anyone know this brand and part #? Did a search but came up empty handed. Thanks

If non of these work you need to get your hands on a ozone generator, i've got one and it will remove smells out of anything, car, house, ect. My freinds salvage 240sx had a wet dog smell, an hour with this thing inside, smells "fresh" now. Some of the better detailing shops should have one, I aquired mine years ago, it's just a 18" by 18" box that you plug in and it puts ozone out, simple yet effective.

Those would acually be ok.... if they didn't have the chrome around them, usual ricer fashon, tacky chrome. I like the clear part, if they were clear and black they be ok, maybe, .

Ya, you really woudn't think so, but this is the case. These blowers are very solid, the weakest link is in the snout, I dont have a pic handy, so i'll explain it best I can. On the end of the drive shaft there is a disk with three post's on it, this is what drives the coupler that is in the first picture which is attached to the one of the "drive" gears in the assembly, these gears are what spin the internals. Keep in mind, the lobes inside are doing 15000 - 20000 RPM when your revin it good, thats alot of energy to try to slow down quickly.I just rebuilt a M90 for this project, I should have taken some internal pics so you could see what i'm talkin about. I'm not trying to rain on anybodys parade, just want to make sure nobody breaks there stuff. I'm going to try the v belt first, I think it'll do just fine for the gains I want.

Haven't looked at this thread in a few weeks, 89_trailboss, as great as a cog setup sounds, they should not be used on these superchargers. You want some slippage, otherwise your supercharger will self-distruct, as i've seen in the Thunderbird world. People didnt like slippage and came up with way's off stopping it with nasty result's. During the shift at high RPM, high load, the rotors want to keep acellerating and turning in the direction they already are while the engine is slowing down and trying to make them go the opposite direction. This shock is absorbed primarily by the coupler and drive hub/pins. What happened in instance's, is the constant shock the drive hub saw during these conditions causes the pins to bend away from being perpendicular to the hub. While the pins bend very little, what actually happens is the aluminum hub gives a little each time allowing the pins to move. As the blower continues to be in service, the pins oblong the hole they are pressed into further and further. You can see in the picture: http://www3.telus.net/public/spelch/brokendrive1.jpg the hub allowed the pins to lean far enough over that they back out of the bore they were pressed into. This allowed them to back away from the coupler far enough to tear their way out of it. As this continues happening, the splines on the shaft which the hub is pressed onto begin to distort along with the aluminum hub bore itself. Eventually, the press fit of the hub on the shaft gives way entirely and spins freely fully disengaging the rotors. The bearing's don't like this eithier: http://www3.telus.net/public/spelch/brokendrive2.jpg As bad as belt slippage sounds, alittle is a good thing. Now as per the engines being the same as 300's, the BLOCKS are the same, thats it, the internal's are not and that is what is going to go on you, not the block. Unless your upgrading your piston/rods, crank, ect. these engines will not handle 15psi for long. Andrew

In the interior (vernon) we're used to white stuff, I love driving in it, drifting corners in a pathy is great. Its always funny listening to the radio (rock101) in Van. at work in the morning, cars in ditches, suv's on there roof's, ect. To many yuppies in yukons or cars with bald summer tires that think they can still do the 20 over the speed limit. I remember on the news last year down there there was a small accident on a hill and car after car kept piling into this scene untill ther was 10 or so cars involved. They just kept coming down this hill, doing 60 at that. The ICBC salvage site will be breaming after this week down there. Never had the cops razz us for screwing around in parking lots, the rcmp are pretty melo around here. 3 hours early for work is crazy, in a blizzard it might take me 20min. and I live "outta town". Its way to hecktick down there.

Hmmm, There is a Kal tire re-treading plant not far from here in kamloops, I shoud see if they do truck tires, I know they do semi tires for sure. This would be a nice alternitive to new tires.

Well, what the hell, I may as well get on this, this is such a boring time of year I need something to do. Now looking at the pictures the one thing I'm not to sure about is the belt tensioner that was used. Is that the factory A/C tensioner? Can anybody conferm this?

I was looking through the forums and came across a pic of 88's engine bay, It didn't look like that stuff was there, so good to know. I'm not to worried about my cat's, they arn't there. All these AIV part's on my truck are rusted to sht for some reason. It's kinda wierd, they are so bad they are crumbling away. So out they come, I need some more room in there. Thanks for the imput guys.

I'm would like to make some room in the engine bay of my 87, i'm looking at all the crap in the front of the bay on the drivers side. Acording to my manuel there is the A.I.V HOT BOX, control valve, AIV case, emission canister, ect. Can I remove all this rusted up crap, plug the pipe's coming from the exhaust. I'm basicly looking at everything in that corner minus the coil. I'm don't need to wory about emmisions. ANybody removed all this stuff, and adverse affects? Or should I leave it alone. 88pathoffroad, I noticed in one of your engine bay pics you didn't have this stuff, correct?

Ya, I'm thinkin just some more power, not lots. The fuel issues that could come from doing this worrys me alittle, your relieing on the factory computer (o2 sensor) to sense a lean condition and correct it (adding more fuel). Don't get me wrong, this is ok to a certien level, but not 10+ PSI, you WILL blow your engine up, I promise you. You need to retard your timing altitle and use 94 octane fuel to pevent detonation. I would be comfortable with 6 PSI or so, that would add around 30 or so HP, but more toque, which is what you want. AS per rebuilding your engine before, its not a bad idea, but if your running lower PSi (6-8) I wouldn't be to concernd, I'll wait till it goes. Porting and such doesn't hurt, if you want to do it, it's not neccicary though. I would if my enignes on a stand, I wouldn't go outta my way to do it though, i.e tear it all apart JUST to do porting. You're factory exhaust would do just fine, but better exhaust is a good thing, it will lower your boost alittle because there is less restriction. This is a good thing, easier on your engine, AND you will get more power even though the boost droped, more boost does not always mean more power. My thunderbird was 15-16 psi stock, when I was done with lots of mods, it was around 12psi, but had so much more low end torque. A better breathing engine is going to last alot longer under boost. As per the pathy I would love to tear the engine out and rebuild her, port it, and set this up, that woul be ideal, but i'm no willing to spend that kind of money on my daily driver, my 57' gets my extra cash. The extra power should sure be nice though, these things are so frikin gutless. I'll keep you informed though.

The supercharger in those pictures is same factory one out of a Thunderbird Supercoupe (89-96) I used to have one, they are a great supercharger, low maint. and reliable, the only problems with them were the nose seals will start to weep, a $15 fix. These superchargers are Very easy and cheap to get ahold of online, ebay ect. , I could probley get one with plumbing for $300. There are mods you can do to these chargers as well, Smaller pully's, porting, ect. i've done them all, they worked very well. When I added the big intake and MAF it made it sound like a jet engine, very loud, awsome. Here is a pic. of the thinderbird engine bay, for refernce: http://www3.telus.net/public/spelch/Supercoupe.jpg The only thing I would be concerned with this idea, would be fuel, and making sure you had enough, if it leans out on you you'll melt a piston. Also they mounted the TBI on the intake, so you would be running fuel therough the supercharger and all that plumbing, something about that dosnt sit well with me, and is something they never had from the factory. The "rotors" inside the Supercharger are teflon coated which makes the seal and gives you your boost. Fuel running through there might mess up that coating. The supercoupe V-6 was MUCH stronger then the standard, forged crank, hypo. piston's, ect, I would be concerned these pathy engines couldn't handle the higher boost (10 + psi). You could put a bigger pully on it for less PSI and reliability , or leave it as is and take your chances. Other that that, this would be a fairly simple project to do, easy to rig up. This is something I'm definatly going to look for my 87, once spring rolls around and the 57's back on the road, I dont want to blow up my only wheels right now. Andrew

Hey guys, i'm in need of new headlights for my 87 pathy, one lens is broken, the other is corroded inside. Does anybody know what years will fit the 87? As well as other vehicles (Nissan trucks?) that will fit these 87's. If anybody out there has a set or one they would want to get rid of, let me know. thanks.