dirtroadpathy1987

update time.... I set throttle stop, hard idle with .670 mm shim and it wont engage idle signal with .72 mm shim so id say thats good, timing was only 2 deg. off.... it was at 13 btdc and idle was pretty low. It idles with no bogging now but my surging is still pissing me off. The actual motor is just sounding rough. almost like its camming. I double checked tooth count on t belt and tensioner and all is right in that area. Im leaning towards electrical problems. The new tach shows that it gets an on signal by moving to 0, but the signal from port 2 (white) on ecu is dead is guess. tach doesnt reflect rpms... The dizzy is on my mind, maybe internal or wiring going to/from. Some days, it sounds like the dizzy area has a slight whine to it. sounds electrical though not mechanical. and get this, timing light was going dim when it was idleing but when id rev it, the light would get bright like supposed to. im thinking that reflects the electrical issues somewhere but I dont know if its ecu, dizzy, harness, tcu..... I cant keep throwing parts at it. local pull a part doesnt have a 95 or compatible year model either that isnt stripped. for now, I guess its dig into the dizzy time and see if its sending/getting correct signals. I remember seeing too that all the engine control harnesses had corrosion in them too when i took off the intake for the 1000000th time. I used cleaner and dielectric to get rid of all that with no noticable running difference also. Anybody got a good ecu that will work for my truck? Id love to gut all emmisions and make it way more simple with less sensors so an ecu like that would be ideal..... or one I can tune and put it in beast mode. I have paypal and can western union if needed lol. I wish I had another ecu/ complete wiring haness/tcu/1995 pathfinder to just start swapping things around till it was right again. Im tired of keeping everything silent while driving to try and listen for issues. I wanna just take her out and drive her like a mad hatter untill she blows up lol. well theres my venting for today, anybody with experience with complete/intermittent/exponential electrical and mechanical failures hit me up with advice. If your just gonna talk out of the side of your neck though, no thank you, I have cows in the field if I want to hear it splatter. Have a good one yall! look forward to the replies!

holy crap you are the man! you make it sound so simple lol. So when you say the throttle plate should close but not bind, is there any technical advice on setting that? Would that mean to back out stop screw all the way and then tighten, stopping as soon as the plate moves? I just want to be forsure. and any relearning process? Ive heard a little but not much about that. serious note though, thank you!

ok I have google searched, npora searched, nico search, every freakin search I can think of and I am still not certain bc of all I have read. I also checked my 1995 fsm from nicoclub, and the 1995 suppl. fsm, along with the haynes. To save your time and mine as well we'll just talk about the procedures and problems, not the imbasil who jumped into all this blindly. I do not want to start another idle post so my bad, but My 95 4wd xe's throttle stop, distributor placement, Idle screw and tps have all been changed. Not sure if any are correct now. I had the tps set to 1.002 kohm and hard idle would connect top and mid pins when butterfly rested on throttle stop. If I would rotate drum, the resting point resistance was inconsistent every time. close, but different. tps screws were tight so that led to the throttle stop being adjusted. Timing is forsure off, I heard pinging under load and crept home from there. Idle screw by coolant bleeder port has been messed with bc I highly doubt I put it back in exactly right when I cleaned my Idle air control to unstick plunger. btw, I have inductive timing light, multimeter, and a new tps on there now with probly 30 minutes of run time. I need to set throttle stop, idle, timing, and tps. oh great joy.... I also just bought a tach tonight bc I havnt had a working one in 7 years and I have a feeling im about to need it for this. THis is the only vehicle I have and I have to be at work tmrw so please some guru shine you glorious light lol. Im definately at a brick wall.

did you ever find the source? do you hear a misfire or smell gas in your oil by chance? hope it all went smooth

So what ended up being the problem? Or atleast what was the fix. If you havnt found it yet, have any symptoms gotten worse? I'm trying to figure out if I should tear into the intake again. Hope not. Lol. Hey guru's, would seafoaming a bad carbon filled intake clog my injectors worse? Or would it have positive effects?

Any solutions yet for your rig?

Also, does anyone have a picture of the back of your fully working gauge cluster? I remember when I took mine out I thought that some of the small screws werent there or where they were supposed to be. also the bottom harness plug on the back of mine didnt have a black box or harness to go into it that I hear so much about. I know it had to happen before 04' though bc I wouldnt have done anything like just unplug and toss.... unless it was a crazy, corroded alarm system

yall are awesome! I guess I was just thinking it was all linked lol. I am still not so sure about the tach though just because of it jumping around before the truck is running. It doesnt move with the key on ACC but begins having seizures when the key is on the ON position. After the post, I played with my multimeter (set on DC) and with one prong on the negative terminal on the battery, almost everything has voltage on my engine... even the air intake manifold. Not a terminal, but the freaking metal itself.... Makes me wonder if the wires on the dizzy are jumping to the dizzy itself... thats just a thought though, not sure. I think I can hear a high pitch electrical whine coming from that area too. All this is with the motor off but the key on ON. the whine is almost like that squeal that you sometimes hear coming from older tvs and such. Im wondering if the abs is a clogged line being that It hasnt needed fluid in years and its quite dark in the reservoir but full. I can also see the MC bulging a bit when i press the pedal to the floor. I have a vac leak somewhere but if I sqeeze the line bt check valve and manifold, breaks are stiff. check valve is good too bc hose between chk valve and mc stays pressurized. Would a blocked brake line cause the parking brake to be almost free play? Cables arent loose or broken. I can hear the shoes moving when I pull the cable too so Im thinking blockage or adjustment of shoes. if I do have some + wire touching a ground though, is there a good way or multimeter setting to better locate the problem? I have alot of questions, I know, because no professional mechanic Ive found puts the care and thought into working on my PF like I expect, so Ive become my own. Now my budget just sucks so its truly shadetree type stuff. I enjoy the heck out of it when I can fix anything thats complicated though. Thanks for your replies though, the Nissan place doesnt enjoy answering questions about a 95 lol.

Im going to just start in the beginning bc maybe something small to me is the main clue to you guru's. Bought my pathy 95 california(Im guessing because of the egr-bpt) xe 4wd in 04'. As soon as I got it, I replaced the radio, bypassed amps, and put new 5x7s in. I also put blue gauge covers in my dash (Young and Dumb, I know). since Then I have had more electrical failures and now im going back through and undoing/fixing the things I did back then. I havnt found anything dumb though and I have checked against the 95 fsm and haynes to be thorough. Im just going to list the things that went out and ill try to do it in order but that was a while back. Tach gauge jumps everywhere when key in ON and truck not cranked, washer pump went out-first the front then the back, left side bright wont work but bulb has been replaced and it isnt blowing it, Door lock used to be sparadic then acted right again, alarm went bonkers if i unlocked and got in the truck, blower motor went out, ABS light would come on and then go off, shift lock went intermittent and then began working again, psngr window goes up slow but has since day 1, The key shocked me once or twice when I turned it, nothing is illuminated in ac control area, and when I press the drivers window up or down I can see a spark in the vertical foot area panel that is in front of the passenger door. Things I did to fix probs-- removed washer tank assy, removed alarm system and wiring, replaced blower motor, and removed those gauges years ago but all probs still persist. I think I can hear the circuit breaker flipping as soon as key is ON and the abs like will go off when the click is heard. I think this is everything and I know its alot, sorry for that. Im pulling my hair out though being that my budget is so small that I cant replace much at all but I try to look/test/fix everything possible. I think the problem could be ground issue being that the black with white line wire harness prong is discolored on the keyswitch harness but im really not too sure. I have a multimeter, I just feel like im pissing my time away and have no clue really where to look. Any advice on things to check or good testing techniques would be soo appreciated. thanks for your time! and please dont say to trash the truck, I am a fixit guy and need her to work right again. Ill answer most any questions so hit me with them if you have them. Thanks again

Thanks! I adjusted the tps and she returned to her normal self... Within the past week though, she was drinking oil pretty quick. Watched for smoke and saw none. I had to investigate. Well I pulled the upper air intake mani and my oh my! Found my oil. Nice and coated on all sides with crystal looking grit. The icing on this cake though, I also found a ton of crack hoses under the Ai that I hadn't changed, mostly all small channels in Ai were between partly and mostly clogged. Mostly clogged or stuck emissions equip. I live in al, wish I knew how to bypass as much as poss. Vc's were almost loose enough to get a full turn by hand before grabbing a tool. Also notice the passenger side exhaust mani looks and seems a good bit hotter than drivers. Idea? Was intake so restricted to pull air from open vc's through FAI and pcv lines?? Tightened vc's, cleaned metal lines and channels with intake spray. Replaced Almost all Ai hoses except two FAI elbows bc I ran out of hose. I also regapped plugs, they were were around .040 but looked pretty good all things considered. Carbon canister has highly reduced airflow, almost stopped. Ideas on that one? Also found the pass ground strap tied around ps hose. Tried to put it back but no heat shield and busted hs bolts didn't allow so I went body to main ground by ps pump. Bad idea? Two blackened harnesses going to the alternator and appears to be an empty relay by the battery. I have no clue what it goes to. I redid the 1 wire plug to dizzy. Cleaned the points on the cap. Noticed 5 and 6 have angled swipes and the rest are perpindicular to the radius at points. When I finished all this crap and cranked her, she idles a little smoother but there seems to be less high end power. I had retarded the timing during the process but I want to know the change I will see in the system being too advanced or too retarded. I guess there is still a Vac leak too bc repeditive break pumping choked her up. I'm really leaning towards a little tps adj, timing, seafoam, and emmisions work/bypassing. What's your thoughts? Are any of these related? Sorry for it being a novel but I've lived under the hood for 3 days and saw some questionable stuff. -npora is mylifeline, if you can't tell Thanks ahead of time for your thoughts!

Last weekend I replaced my cracked vacuum hoses. I also replaced brake booster Vac line. Check valve worked properly. I replace the fuel filter cannister and I cleaned my TB due to large carbon amounts or a layer of oil. I replaced pcv valve and then found that the hose from Ai tube to drivers side valve cover is crack pretty bad but no oil leak at the crack?! I still have to replace the hose but now my transmission has started shifting late with harsh downshifting so my focus has changed. A/t fluid isnt low or burnt. Have I missed a big step somewhere or is the tranny unrelated? Any solutions? Cost effective if possible. Thanks! -dirtroadpathy