Scott.T

Thanks for that. Ill have to do this to my rear bumper. Now I just cant wait to find somewhere around here to take it off roading.

I will figure something out, even if I have to weld it in place.

I installed the 3 inch body lift. Now trying to figure out what I need to do to mount the front bumper. The right front blinker went out so I went to replace the bulb and it was corroded and would not come out of the socket, I ended up breaking it. I looked around at the local junk yards and on craigslist for another with no luck. I finall got one from an older toyota t100 truck and made it work.

I just installed a 3 inch body lift and was trying to install the front bumper. I cant figure out how it is suppose to go on. I read the above and looked at the pictures and tried to do the same thing but my bumper brackets are different. I tried hooking up the bracket extensions in different ways but they do not line up with the bolt holes on the frame. Is this a common issue?

How do you extend the steering shaft? I have the lift installed I just need to hook the steering shaft back up and I cant get it to extend. Ive tried using a hammer and nothing. The shaft should extend without loosening the upper bolt right?

That is understandable. I figured if it is just length I could probably pick up a set of grade 8 bolts that are the correct length. I was mainly wanting to know if it was the length of the bolts that was the difference between the 2 kits.

I am looking at purchasing a 3 inch body lift tomorrow. I was looking at this kit here: http://www.rockymountainsusp.com/index.htm?stocknumber=4053+PA. I have heard the the rear bolts were different for the 93-95. Are the bolts needed for the 93-95 longer? If so how much longer? There is that kit for $122 and there is one at 4x4parts.com that is for a 95 for $155. I was just hoping to save a few bucks and see what the difference was. If its just a longer bolt I could probably buy it at tractor supply. Thanks

I bought a set of 4 15x10 sawblade wheels with 3.75 backspacing with some 33x12.50 dayton timberline a/t's with about 50-60% tread for $250. Trimmed up the front fenders a bit with a friend and mounted the wheels and this is without a lift and they fit great. Tomorrow I will be buying a 3 inch body lift.

I used penzoil conventional 5w30 and a purilator oil filter

It has 210,xxx miles right now. When the ticking is heard there is no loss in power, it runs exactly the same, just makes the noise, it goes away shortly after driving at slower speeds, I would say within a minute or so. It runs strong and smooth, just has the normal ticking sound from a cold startup that only lasts a few seconds. This other ticking sound does not sound like that though.

Every once in a while when I take off from a stop the truck will make a grinding sound that will last for 1-2 seconds. During this period of grinding it seems to cut accessory power, the radio turns off but the truck stay running. It really only does it in first gear, sometimes 2nd if I do a rolling stop and take off in second. It seems to only do it when the rpm's are low on take off. Has anyone experienced this before or have any ideas? Thanks

I have looked for a while and couldnt find threads pertaining to my tapping sound. When driving the truck around town and the back roads from anywhere up to 60 mph it is fine. If I drive on the interstate at 70+ for any period of time it makes a tapping sound. I usually dont notice the tapping sound until I come to a stop after driving those speeds, if I rev up the tapping gets faster. Once I start driving at the normal speeds or 45-55 mph the tapping dies down and goes away. It has been doing this since I have bought it but I havent payed no mind to it since I rarely drive on the interstate. I was thinking it could be spark knock? I do get a CEL light every once in a while with 2 codes, one for the knock sensor and the other for egr. I figure it would more likely be the knock sensor causing this problem. I have read though that it is a common problem for our trucks to get knock sensor codes every once in a while and it be nothing, a bad connection or something. From what I have read as long as it idles fine and not dying at stops that the knock sensor is usually still working fine, so its not worth replacing it since it is a pita to do. What are your guys's takes on this? Could it be something else, spark plugs, plug wires, cap, rotor? I havent given it a tuneup since I bought it, just gave it a seafoam treatment, changes the oil and transmission fluid so far. Any thoughts will be appreciated.

I hooked up that other wire to the first starter wire and now the truck starts much easier.

Thank you for this info. I have noticed that it doesnt start as easily, I figured it was due to that wire, I havent hooked it up yet though. I will do that tomorrow.

I thought about doing this but for the starter switch. I originally put one of those switches on the center console this morning, it was a spring back switch, no cover. When I got home I decided to change it around, now I have the floor switch, looks like the old hi beam/low beam switch. There is no point in doing this for the ignition switch, my setup is great, it cant accidentally be turned on or off. If I did this for the ignition toggle, it could easily be bumped and turned off. Those switch covers are spring loaded so once they start going they snap closed which wouldnt be good if I was driving. I do like the look of it though, people would be like *ooh, what happens when you flip that switch?* People might be scared to touch it lol.